THe Next morning we left cycling along the Dead sea. THe flys got less the villages even more so and we stopped along the way to visit the Wadi Guweihra. WE walked up the canyon which had many locals enjoying their Friday in this stunning canyon. On the way down we were invited to eat. One of the groups was females andkids only. THey were delighted by Felix andcould not understand why Carlos and me have none. Well one of the ladys is a nurse and she told me that Carlos needs to eat honey, that will give us kids....
Then further down Felix got some bisquits from another family, when we finally reached our bikes (which we left standing under a tree somewhere) we found them surrounded by Jordanians hving a picknic. Carlos was eing called away by some guys I was being offered some food by another family. We got so much to eat, wild bird freshly shot, chicken cooked in the earth oven, etc. IT was really dificult to pleaseeverybody and we got stuck. THe other three got impatient and were finally able t ease us away (thank you otherwise we would still be there eating and all the kilos lost would be on again). We went on cycling and the plan was to camp a little up the hill out of the valley as we planned to cycle up to the plateau towards Petra. Well we did barely make it. Night was falling when Carlos spotted a descent camping spot beside ome fields.
The next day started late and it was hot and windy. ANd we made 1600 altitude meteres. Carlos was for once not pushin me uphill but helping Konrad to push the chariot with Felix up the very steep hills.
It was tough. WHen we were more or less at the top we passed this tiny village and some kids and a women stopped us with a bike asking if we are able to pump the bicycle. We did so (it was not punctured), we then had lunch andgot some homemade bread, tea and olives for our efford. Then we went on. And for once just before sunset we found a camsite. Actually we slept in the first floor ofa newbuilt house after asking the owne if we could camp on his land. IT was strange as we were not able to cook really and we did not get invited for dinner neither offered the use of the Hammam (SHower) BUt they were really friendly.
WE came to our 3rd day cycling together with Kirstín, Konrad and Felix which we really enjoyed. However I had a ter´rible day. I felt really bad and had bad diareah too. ANyhow head down and through I had to go but I wasrather unhappy. At lunch we arrived in SHowback where I wanted to see the castle. The Germans decided they will pedal on. Showback was great but steep uphill and very hot. I wished we would have stayed there a day but Petra was looming large.
So we pedaled on and we reached Petra where we agreed with the Germans to meet at a hotel but we found them in a really beautiful spot overlooking Petra.
THe next morning we went to see Petra the five of us. Well even though it is incredible expensive Petra is worth the money but please go for 2 days otherwise you have no time to explore. We spent a daywith Felix which walked up the huge mountain over big steps and did not complain once. Carlos, Konrad and me then tried to find a route over the top to see the treasury but we got badly lost and it took us forever. But we found it in the end. WHen walking down into the canyon we were told off by the guard as it was suposedly to dagerous without a guide.
THe next day we were on our own again as the Germans went of to Wadi RUm as they are on a tighter schedule than we. WE went back to Petra and walked up to the monastery where we bumped into a group of elderly americans. WE walked back down together and wereasked f we would like to meet up later for drinks at their hotel.
In the evening we took the taxi to their hotel. It was funny as it was the second most expensive taxi ride of the trip (apart from the airport to hotel in Turkey). THe hotel was high above the city, very nice and very empty. I got invited to some wiskeý and we hada really interesting conversation.
From Petra we cycled towards Wadi Rum the famous Lawrence of Arabia country. We thought we would make the whole in one day but the wind was so bad!!!!!
We camped in the desert just 15km from the Wadi in the Desert. WE had the best dinner and the most beautiful night. The next morning we went the last 20km to RUm and sorted out our Jeep tour through the Wadi and a night in a Beduin tent. That was an adventure in itself but the tour was great! Well the scenery is.
NOw guys I will not tell you much more as my fingers ache.
JUst one thing Wadi Rum to Aqaba at the Red Sea was the most exhilerating downhill ride ever and the Red sea is cold but great!
Good bye next time we will write from Israel
Saturday, 4 December 2010
Amman to Aqaba
Dear All
We are very sorry but in Jordan it is very seldom we are stumble over an internet. MAybe because we are staying in the bushes to avoid the high hotel costs.
After our not so nice experience in the Jordan Valley we climbed out of it and went to a place calledJerash. THis is a all ROman City and Jesus visited it too. So on the way there we thought we will visit the National parque in Ajloun. Well we found a hill with beautiful oak trees and decided to make photos. Then we went on along the road when suddenly this black car pulled up beside us. I was annoyed as he did not let me weave up the steep hill so I waved it on and it pulled up beside Carlos. There he rolled down his window and told Carlos he would like to have a look at thephtos we took further down. Carlos asked f he has to stop right there but it was ok fór the guy that we finish up he hill. He pulled off and went ahead (we did not delete the photos we took as we tought them innocent). Well we showed him the photos and he was not really interested in our tree pictures with Israel in the background. He was wondering if we took pictures of the ROyal Palace which was on the hill ide which we ignored completely.
Anywaz that day we went on and on over rolling hills until the final push up a 33% inclination which I was unable to ride up to a beautiful campspot.
The next day we went to Jerash to see the smallest hippodrome and Hadrians Arch. We also went to see the the Gladiator fight and the Chariot Race in the ruins it was great great ´fun however Carlos did not agree as he found the entrance to expensive and the show only slightly amuseing. After Jerash we went through the back roads to Amman. We wanted to take a tour to the Desert Castles in the Eas of Amman bt unfortunately we tried for 2 days and it was impossible. In Amman the old city is ok but not great after Aleppo and Damascus nd even Beirut. But on the second afternoon I wanted to see something a little more like home so we asked for ride to one of the cities parks from where my plan was to walk to the modern shopping area. We asked a lady if from here a bus would go to the park and she offered us a ride in her taxi as the park is a littl ahead ofher place. IN the taxi she payed the driver and a huge argument broke out. She is a Iraqi lady who lived in Syria for long time and had her kids in Canada. So her Arabe and english was excellent. Well anyhow when she got out she told us to get out with her too. The driver kept having a go at her and she at him. SHe told us once out that he wanted to charge her US20 instead of US 2dollars for the ride as we are tourist and we are rich and that she was really upset about that. Anyhow she got us another cab and paid for it. Gosh she was upset. The cabby kept on going and going and going. We saw the signs of the AIrport and the houses were disappearing. At the end he stopped in front of the King ABdullah park (but we wanted the King Hussein park) I was not so bothered as there was a great shopping center on the other side so I knew we can get a ride back. Well as nightfall wasclose we decided we will go to the shopping center. There we got some toothpaste in the Carrefour, dinner in the MacDonalds and desert in the Pauls. Ahh and most important a ne book in´the Virgin Media store. Luckily the taxi back was easy and the price ok, but hey what a way to spend your time in Amman.
Then we decided to go on and we went south after 50km we hit Madaba and went to see St Georges churc and the 2ad mosaic depicting a map of the middle east. Unfortunately most of it s lost. From there we went to Mount Nebo from where Moses saw the promised land for the first time after his 40year long stroll through the desert. Apart from the picture of POpe Paul 2 there was not much to see as there was a lot of haze or polution in the Jordan Valley. But I got stung by a waspe as a memory. Then we circled back to Madaba once more to take another Road down to the dead sea. We wanted to go to some Hot SPrings and I tell you the downhill was exhillerating. However the drop down to the Spring was break-breaking. THeSping was hot and nice but it did cost us 16 Jordanians. A lot of money as it is one to one with the Euro. And we off course were caught out by the night and we had a climb up the hill or about 4 or 5km with a 33% gradient. I was not looking forward to it as you can imagine. Carlos sucked up to some local business men having a soak and they agreed to take our luggage to the top of the hill. Well I was riding up the hill like I was flying but it was so dark and a little eerie and Carlos was not with me at the beginning as he had to oversee the loadingof the luggage. Well when I was at the top we waited and waited and I asked Carlos do you have their names, are you sure they are coming this way? DO you have the Passports with you. We had nothin no money, no Passports no names no car registration number of those guys. Anyhow the guys came, unloaded our gear and we were off to find a campsite. Carlos luckily spotted something before going down to the spring. IT was a great campsite the sunrise was stunning and then we rode another 20km downhill again into the Jorda Valley to hit the Dead Sea. When arriving on the bottom of the world minus 400m below sea level we were imediately covered in flys. Nonetheless we stopped for a coffee. We had a FataMorgana suddenly 2 cyclist appeared. They were real. PLease make the aquaintance of Kirstin, Konrad and Felix their 2.5 year old son. We had a tea together they stayed on and we went on to Mujib national park. WHere we went up the river doing some canyoning. WHen we came back the three germans were there. They were not allowed to do the hikeup the river because of their youg son. We then tried to get down to the beach of the dead sea to have a dip but were turned away by the administrator of the NAtional Park Guest house. is argument was that this was a private property and wewould have to pay for access. Well we turned around and left. A litle further down the road we found area where we could get in and we carried 16liters of fresh water to rinse off. It was great floating in the sea, surreal ýou have to try it one day.
THe 5 of us cycled on. Nightfall started but we were in an area where the land was privately owned by some Jordanian petrol company. We found somewhere we were thinking suitable and asked some people at a rest point if we could camp there. THey said they will be talking to the military patrol and it should not be a problem. Well we pitched the tent. Anhour later the military jeep stopped beside us and told s we have to pack the capitain is not allowing our stay. We had to depitch. It was a pain as it was darkest night by now. He told us we have to go at least 5km more to the next town. It was no fun and Felix the kid was not happy and he was not alone. Well we arrived in the town and it was not a good feeling, a lot of teenagers loitering. THen we passed a sports complex and there were a couple of men standing around. SO Carlos went up to them and asked if they would know a place where we could camp. ONe of the men was the caretaker of the sportscomplex and allowed us to camp insinde, with toilets, water, tea and electricity all at hand. IT was great.
We are very sorry but in Jordan it is very seldom we are stumble over an internet. MAybe because we are staying in the bushes to avoid the high hotel costs.
After our not so nice experience in the Jordan Valley we climbed out of it and went to a place calledJerash. THis is a all ROman City and Jesus visited it too. So on the way there we thought we will visit the National parque in Ajloun. Well we found a hill with beautiful oak trees and decided to make photos. Then we went on along the road when suddenly this black car pulled up beside us. I was annoyed as he did not let me weave up the steep hill so I waved it on and it pulled up beside Carlos. There he rolled down his window and told Carlos he would like to have a look at thephtos we took further down. Carlos asked f he has to stop right there but it was ok fór the guy that we finish up he hill. He pulled off and went ahead (we did not delete the photos we took as we tought them innocent). Well we showed him the photos and he was not really interested in our tree pictures with Israel in the background. He was wondering if we took pictures of the ROyal Palace which was on the hill ide which we ignored completely.
Anywaz that day we went on and on over rolling hills until the final push up a 33% inclination which I was unable to ride up to a beautiful campspot.
The next day we went to Jerash to see the smallest hippodrome and Hadrians Arch. We also went to see the the Gladiator fight and the Chariot Race in the ruins it was great great ´fun however Carlos did not agree as he found the entrance to expensive and the show only slightly amuseing. After Jerash we went through the back roads to Amman. We wanted to take a tour to the Desert Castles in the Eas of Amman bt unfortunately we tried for 2 days and it was impossible. In Amman the old city is ok but not great after Aleppo and Damascus nd even Beirut. But on the second afternoon I wanted to see something a little more like home so we asked for ride to one of the cities parks from where my plan was to walk to the modern shopping area. We asked a lady if from here a bus would go to the park and she offered us a ride in her taxi as the park is a littl ahead ofher place. IN the taxi she payed the driver and a huge argument broke out. She is a Iraqi lady who lived in Syria for long time and had her kids in Canada. So her Arabe and english was excellent. Well anyhow when she got out she told us to get out with her too. The driver kept having a go at her and she at him. SHe told us once out that he wanted to charge her US20 instead of US 2dollars for the ride as we are tourist and we are rich and that she was really upset about that. Anyhow she got us another cab and paid for it. Gosh she was upset. The cabby kept on going and going and going. We saw the signs of the AIrport and the houses were disappearing. At the end he stopped in front of the King ABdullah park (but we wanted the King Hussein park) I was not so bothered as there was a great shopping center on the other side so I knew we can get a ride back. Well as nightfall wasclose we decided we will go to the shopping center. There we got some toothpaste in the Carrefour, dinner in the MacDonalds and desert in the Pauls. Ahh and most important a ne book in´the Virgin Media store. Luckily the taxi back was easy and the price ok, but hey what a way to spend your time in Amman.
Then we decided to go on and we went south after 50km we hit Madaba and went to see St Georges churc and the 2ad mosaic depicting a map of the middle east. Unfortunately most of it s lost. From there we went to Mount Nebo from where Moses saw the promised land for the first time after his 40year long stroll through the desert. Apart from the picture of POpe Paul 2 there was not much to see as there was a lot of haze or polution in the Jordan Valley. But I got stung by a waspe as a memory. Then we circled back to Madaba once more to take another Road down to the dead sea. We wanted to go to some Hot SPrings and I tell you the downhill was exhillerating. However the drop down to the Spring was break-breaking. THeSping was hot and nice but it did cost us 16 Jordanians. A lot of money as it is one to one with the Euro. And we off course were caught out by the night and we had a climb up the hill or about 4 or 5km with a 33% gradient. I was not looking forward to it as you can imagine. Carlos sucked up to some local business men having a soak and they agreed to take our luggage to the top of the hill. Well I was riding up the hill like I was flying but it was so dark and a little eerie and Carlos was not with me at the beginning as he had to oversee the loadingof the luggage. Well when I was at the top we waited and waited and I asked Carlos do you have their names, are you sure they are coming this way? DO you have the Passports with you. We had nothin no money, no Passports no names no car registration number of those guys. Anyhow the guys came, unloaded our gear and we were off to find a campsite. Carlos luckily spotted something before going down to the spring. IT was a great campsite the sunrise was stunning and then we rode another 20km downhill again into the Jorda Valley to hit the Dead Sea. When arriving on the bottom of the world minus 400m below sea level we were imediately covered in flys. Nonetheless we stopped for a coffee. We had a FataMorgana suddenly 2 cyclist appeared. They were real. PLease make the aquaintance of Kirstin, Konrad and Felix their 2.5 year old son. We had a tea together they stayed on and we went on to Mujib national park. WHere we went up the river doing some canyoning. WHen we came back the three germans were there. They were not allowed to do the hikeup the river because of their youg son. We then tried to get down to the beach of the dead sea to have a dip but were turned away by the administrator of the NAtional Park Guest house. is argument was that this was a private property and wewould have to pay for access. Well we turned around and left. A litle further down the road we found area where we could get in and we carried 16liters of fresh water to rinse off. It was great floating in the sea, surreal ýou have to try it one day.
THe 5 of us cycled on. Nightfall started but we were in an area where the land was privately owned by some Jordanian petrol company. We found somewhere we were thinking suitable and asked some people at a rest point if we could camp there. THey said they will be talking to the military patrol and it should not be a problem. Well we pitched the tent. Anhour later the military jeep stopped beside us and told s we have to pack the capitain is not allowing our stay. We had to depitch. It was a pain as it was darkest night by now. He told us we have to go at least 5km more to the next town. It was no fun and Felix the kid was not happy and he was not alone. Well we arrived in the town and it was not a good feeling, a lot of teenagers loitering. THen we passed a sports complex and there were a couple of men standing around. SO Carlos went up to them and asked if they would know a place where we could camp. ONe of the men was the caretaker of the sportscomplex and allowed us to camp insinde, with toilets, water, tea and electricity all at hand. IT was great.
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