THe Next morning we left cycling along the Dead sea. THe flys got less the villages even more so and we stopped along the way to visit the Wadi Guweihra. WE walked up the canyon which had many locals enjoying their Friday in this stunning canyon. On the way down we were invited to eat. One of the groups was females andkids only. THey were delighted by Felix andcould not understand why Carlos and me have none. Well one of the ladys is a nurse and she told me that Carlos needs to eat honey, that will give us kids....
Then further down Felix got some bisquits from another family, when we finally reached our bikes (which we left standing under a tree somewhere) we found them surrounded by Jordanians hving a picknic. Carlos was eing called away by some guys I was being offered some food by another family. We got so much to eat, wild bird freshly shot, chicken cooked in the earth oven, etc. IT was really dificult to pleaseeverybody and we got stuck. THe other three got impatient and were finally able t ease us away (thank you otherwise we would still be there eating and all the kilos lost would be on again). We went on cycling and the plan was to camp a little up the hill out of the valley as we planned to cycle up to the plateau towards Petra. Well we did barely make it. Night was falling when Carlos spotted a descent camping spot beside ome fields.
The next day started late and it was hot and windy. ANd we made 1600 altitude meteres. Carlos was for once not pushin me uphill but helping Konrad to push the chariot with Felix up the very steep hills.
It was tough. WHen we were more or less at the top we passed this tiny village and some kids and a women stopped us with a bike asking if we are able to pump the bicycle. We did so (it was not punctured), we then had lunch andgot some homemade bread, tea and olives for our efford. Then we went on. And for once just before sunset we found a camsite. Actually we slept in the first floor ofa newbuilt house after asking the owne if we could camp on his land. IT was strange as we were not able to cook really and we did not get invited for dinner neither offered the use of the Hammam (SHower) BUt they were really friendly.
WE came to our 3rd day cycling together with Kirstín, Konrad and Felix which we really enjoyed. However I had a ter´rible day. I felt really bad and had bad diareah too. ANyhow head down and through I had to go but I wasrather unhappy. At lunch we arrived in SHowback where I wanted to see the castle. The Germans decided they will pedal on. Showback was great but steep uphill and very hot. I wished we would have stayed there a day but Petra was looming large.
So we pedaled on and we reached Petra where we agreed with the Germans to meet at a hotel but we found them in a really beautiful spot overlooking Petra.
THe next morning we went to see Petra the five of us. Well even though it is incredible expensive Petra is worth the money but please go for 2 days otherwise you have no time to explore. We spent a daywith Felix which walked up the huge mountain over big steps and did not complain once. Carlos, Konrad and me then tried to find a route over the top to see the treasury but we got badly lost and it took us forever. But we found it in the end. WHen walking down into the canyon we were told off by the guard as it was suposedly to dagerous without a guide.
THe next day we were on our own again as the Germans went of to Wadi RUm as they are on a tighter schedule than we. WE went back to Petra and walked up to the monastery where we bumped into a group of elderly americans. WE walked back down together and wereasked f we would like to meet up later for drinks at their hotel.
In the evening we took the taxi to their hotel. It was funny as it was the second most expensive taxi ride of the trip (apart from the airport to hotel in Turkey). THe hotel was high above the city, very nice and very empty. I got invited to some wiskeý and we hada really interesting conversation.
From Petra we cycled towards Wadi Rum the famous Lawrence of Arabia country. We thought we would make the whole in one day but the wind was so bad!!!!!
We camped in the desert just 15km from the Wadi in the Desert. WE had the best dinner and the most beautiful night. The next morning we went the last 20km to RUm and sorted out our Jeep tour through the Wadi and a night in a Beduin tent. That was an adventure in itself but the tour was great! Well the scenery is.
NOw guys I will not tell you much more as my fingers ache.
JUst one thing Wadi Rum to Aqaba at the Red Sea was the most exhilerating downhill ride ever and the Red sea is cold but great!
Good bye next time we will write from Israel
Saturday, 4 December 2010
Amman to Aqaba
Dear All
We are very sorry but in Jordan it is very seldom we are stumble over an internet. MAybe because we are staying in the bushes to avoid the high hotel costs.
After our not so nice experience in the Jordan Valley we climbed out of it and went to a place calledJerash. THis is a all ROman City and Jesus visited it too. So on the way there we thought we will visit the National parque in Ajloun. Well we found a hill with beautiful oak trees and decided to make photos. Then we went on along the road when suddenly this black car pulled up beside us. I was annoyed as he did not let me weave up the steep hill so I waved it on and it pulled up beside Carlos. There he rolled down his window and told Carlos he would like to have a look at thephtos we took further down. Carlos asked f he has to stop right there but it was ok fór the guy that we finish up he hill. He pulled off and went ahead (we did not delete the photos we took as we tought them innocent). Well we showed him the photos and he was not really interested in our tree pictures with Israel in the background. He was wondering if we took pictures of the ROyal Palace which was on the hill ide which we ignored completely.
Anywaz that day we went on and on over rolling hills until the final push up a 33% inclination which I was unable to ride up to a beautiful campspot.
The next day we went to Jerash to see the smallest hippodrome and Hadrians Arch. We also went to see the the Gladiator fight and the Chariot Race in the ruins it was great great ´fun however Carlos did not agree as he found the entrance to expensive and the show only slightly amuseing. After Jerash we went through the back roads to Amman. We wanted to take a tour to the Desert Castles in the Eas of Amman bt unfortunately we tried for 2 days and it was impossible. In Amman the old city is ok but not great after Aleppo and Damascus nd even Beirut. But on the second afternoon I wanted to see something a little more like home so we asked for ride to one of the cities parks from where my plan was to walk to the modern shopping area. We asked a lady if from here a bus would go to the park and she offered us a ride in her taxi as the park is a littl ahead ofher place. IN the taxi she payed the driver and a huge argument broke out. She is a Iraqi lady who lived in Syria for long time and had her kids in Canada. So her Arabe and english was excellent. Well anyhow when she got out she told us to get out with her too. The driver kept having a go at her and she at him. SHe told us once out that he wanted to charge her US20 instead of US 2dollars for the ride as we are tourist and we are rich and that she was really upset about that. Anyhow she got us another cab and paid for it. Gosh she was upset. The cabby kept on going and going and going. We saw the signs of the AIrport and the houses were disappearing. At the end he stopped in front of the King ABdullah park (but we wanted the King Hussein park) I was not so bothered as there was a great shopping center on the other side so I knew we can get a ride back. Well as nightfall wasclose we decided we will go to the shopping center. There we got some toothpaste in the Carrefour, dinner in the MacDonalds and desert in the Pauls. Ahh and most important a ne book in´the Virgin Media store. Luckily the taxi back was easy and the price ok, but hey what a way to spend your time in Amman.
Then we decided to go on and we went south after 50km we hit Madaba and went to see St Georges churc and the 2ad mosaic depicting a map of the middle east. Unfortunately most of it s lost. From there we went to Mount Nebo from where Moses saw the promised land for the first time after his 40year long stroll through the desert. Apart from the picture of POpe Paul 2 there was not much to see as there was a lot of haze or polution in the Jordan Valley. But I got stung by a waspe as a memory. Then we circled back to Madaba once more to take another Road down to the dead sea. We wanted to go to some Hot SPrings and I tell you the downhill was exhillerating. However the drop down to the Spring was break-breaking. THeSping was hot and nice but it did cost us 16 Jordanians. A lot of money as it is one to one with the Euro. And we off course were caught out by the night and we had a climb up the hill or about 4 or 5km with a 33% gradient. I was not looking forward to it as you can imagine. Carlos sucked up to some local business men having a soak and they agreed to take our luggage to the top of the hill. Well I was riding up the hill like I was flying but it was so dark and a little eerie and Carlos was not with me at the beginning as he had to oversee the loadingof the luggage. Well when I was at the top we waited and waited and I asked Carlos do you have their names, are you sure they are coming this way? DO you have the Passports with you. We had nothin no money, no Passports no names no car registration number of those guys. Anyhow the guys came, unloaded our gear and we were off to find a campsite. Carlos luckily spotted something before going down to the spring. IT was a great campsite the sunrise was stunning and then we rode another 20km downhill again into the Jorda Valley to hit the Dead Sea. When arriving on the bottom of the world minus 400m below sea level we were imediately covered in flys. Nonetheless we stopped for a coffee. We had a FataMorgana suddenly 2 cyclist appeared. They were real. PLease make the aquaintance of Kirstin, Konrad and Felix their 2.5 year old son. We had a tea together they stayed on and we went on to Mujib national park. WHere we went up the river doing some canyoning. WHen we came back the three germans were there. They were not allowed to do the hikeup the river because of their youg son. We then tried to get down to the beach of the dead sea to have a dip but were turned away by the administrator of the NAtional Park Guest house. is argument was that this was a private property and wewould have to pay for access. Well we turned around and left. A litle further down the road we found area where we could get in and we carried 16liters of fresh water to rinse off. It was great floating in the sea, surreal ýou have to try it one day.
THe 5 of us cycled on. Nightfall started but we were in an area where the land was privately owned by some Jordanian petrol company. We found somewhere we were thinking suitable and asked some people at a rest point if we could camp there. THey said they will be talking to the military patrol and it should not be a problem. Well we pitched the tent. Anhour later the military jeep stopped beside us and told s we have to pack the capitain is not allowing our stay. We had to depitch. It was a pain as it was darkest night by now. He told us we have to go at least 5km more to the next town. It was no fun and Felix the kid was not happy and he was not alone. Well we arrived in the town and it was not a good feeling, a lot of teenagers loitering. THen we passed a sports complex and there were a couple of men standing around. SO Carlos went up to them and asked if they would know a place where we could camp. ONe of the men was the caretaker of the sportscomplex and allowed us to camp insinde, with toilets, water, tea and electricity all at hand. IT was great.
We are very sorry but in Jordan it is very seldom we are stumble over an internet. MAybe because we are staying in the bushes to avoid the high hotel costs.
After our not so nice experience in the Jordan Valley we climbed out of it and went to a place calledJerash. THis is a all ROman City and Jesus visited it too. So on the way there we thought we will visit the National parque in Ajloun. Well we found a hill with beautiful oak trees and decided to make photos. Then we went on along the road when suddenly this black car pulled up beside us. I was annoyed as he did not let me weave up the steep hill so I waved it on and it pulled up beside Carlos. There he rolled down his window and told Carlos he would like to have a look at thephtos we took further down. Carlos asked f he has to stop right there but it was ok fór the guy that we finish up he hill. He pulled off and went ahead (we did not delete the photos we took as we tought them innocent). Well we showed him the photos and he was not really interested in our tree pictures with Israel in the background. He was wondering if we took pictures of the ROyal Palace which was on the hill ide which we ignored completely.
Anywaz that day we went on and on over rolling hills until the final push up a 33% inclination which I was unable to ride up to a beautiful campspot.
The next day we went to Jerash to see the smallest hippodrome and Hadrians Arch. We also went to see the the Gladiator fight and the Chariot Race in the ruins it was great great ´fun however Carlos did not agree as he found the entrance to expensive and the show only slightly amuseing. After Jerash we went through the back roads to Amman. We wanted to take a tour to the Desert Castles in the Eas of Amman bt unfortunately we tried for 2 days and it was impossible. In Amman the old city is ok but not great after Aleppo and Damascus nd even Beirut. But on the second afternoon I wanted to see something a little more like home so we asked for ride to one of the cities parks from where my plan was to walk to the modern shopping area. We asked a lady if from here a bus would go to the park and she offered us a ride in her taxi as the park is a littl ahead ofher place. IN the taxi she payed the driver and a huge argument broke out. She is a Iraqi lady who lived in Syria for long time and had her kids in Canada. So her Arabe and english was excellent. Well anyhow when she got out she told us to get out with her too. The driver kept having a go at her and she at him. SHe told us once out that he wanted to charge her US20 instead of US 2dollars for the ride as we are tourist and we are rich and that she was really upset about that. Anyhow she got us another cab and paid for it. Gosh she was upset. The cabby kept on going and going and going. We saw the signs of the AIrport and the houses were disappearing. At the end he stopped in front of the King ABdullah park (but we wanted the King Hussein park) I was not so bothered as there was a great shopping center on the other side so I knew we can get a ride back. Well as nightfall wasclose we decided we will go to the shopping center. There we got some toothpaste in the Carrefour, dinner in the MacDonalds and desert in the Pauls. Ahh and most important a ne book in´the Virgin Media store. Luckily the taxi back was easy and the price ok, but hey what a way to spend your time in Amman.
Then we decided to go on and we went south after 50km we hit Madaba and went to see St Georges churc and the 2ad mosaic depicting a map of the middle east. Unfortunately most of it s lost. From there we went to Mount Nebo from where Moses saw the promised land for the first time after his 40year long stroll through the desert. Apart from the picture of POpe Paul 2 there was not much to see as there was a lot of haze or polution in the Jordan Valley. But I got stung by a waspe as a memory. Then we circled back to Madaba once more to take another Road down to the dead sea. We wanted to go to some Hot SPrings and I tell you the downhill was exhillerating. However the drop down to the Spring was break-breaking. THeSping was hot and nice but it did cost us 16 Jordanians. A lot of money as it is one to one with the Euro. And we off course were caught out by the night and we had a climb up the hill or about 4 or 5km with a 33% gradient. I was not looking forward to it as you can imagine. Carlos sucked up to some local business men having a soak and they agreed to take our luggage to the top of the hill. Well I was riding up the hill like I was flying but it was so dark and a little eerie and Carlos was not with me at the beginning as he had to oversee the loadingof the luggage. Well when I was at the top we waited and waited and I asked Carlos do you have their names, are you sure they are coming this way? DO you have the Passports with you. We had nothin no money, no Passports no names no car registration number of those guys. Anyhow the guys came, unloaded our gear and we were off to find a campsite. Carlos luckily spotted something before going down to the spring. IT was a great campsite the sunrise was stunning and then we rode another 20km downhill again into the Jorda Valley to hit the Dead Sea. When arriving on the bottom of the world minus 400m below sea level we were imediately covered in flys. Nonetheless we stopped for a coffee. We had a FataMorgana suddenly 2 cyclist appeared. They were real. PLease make the aquaintance of Kirstin, Konrad and Felix their 2.5 year old son. We had a tea together they stayed on and we went on to Mujib national park. WHere we went up the river doing some canyoning. WHen we came back the three germans were there. They were not allowed to do the hikeup the river because of their youg son. We then tried to get down to the beach of the dead sea to have a dip but were turned away by the administrator of the NAtional Park Guest house. is argument was that this was a private property and wewould have to pay for access. Well we turned around and left. A litle further down the road we found area where we could get in and we carried 16liters of fresh water to rinse off. It was great floating in the sea, surreal ýou have to try it one day.
THe 5 of us cycled on. Nightfall started but we were in an area where the land was privately owned by some Jordanian petrol company. We found somewhere we were thinking suitable and asked some people at a rest point if we could camp there. THey said they will be talking to the military patrol and it should not be a problem. Well we pitched the tent. Anhour later the military jeep stopped beside us and told s we have to pack the capitain is not allowing our stay. We had to depitch. It was a pain as it was darkest night by now. He told us we have to go at least 5km more to the next town. It was no fun and Felix the kid was not happy and he was not alone. Well we arrived in the town and it was not a good feeling, a lot of teenagers loitering. THen we passed a sports complex and there were a couple of men standing around. SO Carlos went up to them and asked if they would know a place where we could camp. ONe of the men was the caretaker of the sportscomplex and allowed us to camp insinde, with toilets, water, tea and electricity all at hand. IT was great.
Monday, 22 November 2010
Jordan Irbid to Amman
From Irbid we wanted to travel to Umm Quais from where you have stunning views of the sea of Galilea. We decided to take the side road. Well Rolf thank you for the warning, these hills are steep and the english built all the roads on them. Straigh up is the only way that worked for them!\
Carlos says when you have to push the bike you should not be there. Well I should not have been there!
Umm Quais has a nice Amphiteather and Colonaded street but the highlight was the mausoleum. It is supposedly already mentioned in the Bible (Matt 8,28I think) as the place where Jesus met some possed people living on a graveyard and he healed them by moving the devil to a herd of pigs who jumped over the cliff into the sea od Galilea and drowned. Well read it yourself yeah.
From Umm Quais we dropped into the Jordan Valley on the way to another Roman site Pella. The Valley is very green and as Jordan is the only neighbouring country which offically accepts Israel they have an open boarder and no further animosities. Jordans population consists of 60% palestinians. Traffic on the road was moderate due to it being Friday. But that also ment the kids were out. I have never experienced something like this and it was a shock. There were these two young teenagers,one on the right side of the road trying to stop me, stick in hand and arms waving. Carlos was in the meantime shouting his hello to the other guy on the other side. I though hmmm I should make sure I give him a wide berth but I could not go further into the road due to the oncoming traffic. I was not sure if he will try to grab me or put the stick into my wheel to stop me. When I passed him he jumped forward trying to hold on to my legg (the upper part) I was really shocked because he was far to young to behave in this strange sexiest way. Well I had a go at him but of course he escaped. I still thought it to be a isolated incident, stressful not so more as being touched by him but because they do not consider how dangerous it is for you on a loaded bike and because it is such a no do in this culture and they would not even shake hands with one of there woman.
Later on we hit the village and there were hords of kids. They were really aggressive and disrespectful. We fled into a falafel shop and they did not even leave us alone when the owner sent them way. It was horrible. When we took off they were running behind us holding on to the bikes etc. Many adults were trying to make them stop but it was in vain. We then had to cycle really steeply uphill and the kids were just incredible. One of the adult sheeperds shouted at them and acctualy started to through stones at them. I was greatfull for his assistance and I promise I never cycled that fast uphill! But it destroyed to positive image we had of Jordan in a stones throw. We wanted to leave as fast as possible. That night we were allowed to camp on a parking space close to Pella. But we did not visit the site neither that evening nor the next morning. We were on thr run because of some misguided, frustrated and angry children which have no idea but see things which they do not understand and the images are not being rectified by their parents.
Well lets hope it gets better in Jordan otherwise we will be spendind our remaining times in Israel.
Carlos says when you have to push the bike you should not be there. Well I should not have been there!
Umm Quais has a nice Amphiteather and Colonaded street but the highlight was the mausoleum. It is supposedly already mentioned in the Bible (Matt 8,28I think) as the place where Jesus met some possed people living on a graveyard and he healed them by moving the devil to a herd of pigs who jumped over the cliff into the sea od Galilea and drowned. Well read it yourself yeah.
From Umm Quais we dropped into the Jordan Valley on the way to another Roman site Pella. The Valley is very green and as Jordan is the only neighbouring country which offically accepts Israel they have an open boarder and no further animosities. Jordans population consists of 60% palestinians. Traffic on the road was moderate due to it being Friday. But that also ment the kids were out. I have never experienced something like this and it was a shock. There were these two young teenagers,one on the right side of the road trying to stop me, stick in hand and arms waving. Carlos was in the meantime shouting his hello to the other guy on the other side. I though hmmm I should make sure I give him a wide berth but I could not go further into the road due to the oncoming traffic. I was not sure if he will try to grab me or put the stick into my wheel to stop me. When I passed him he jumped forward trying to hold on to my legg (the upper part) I was really shocked because he was far to young to behave in this strange sexiest way. Well I had a go at him but of course he escaped. I still thought it to be a isolated incident, stressful not so more as being touched by him but because they do not consider how dangerous it is for you on a loaded bike and because it is such a no do in this culture and they would not even shake hands with one of there woman.
Later on we hit the village and there were hords of kids. They were really aggressive and disrespectful. We fled into a falafel shop and they did not even leave us alone when the owner sent them way. It was horrible. When we took off they were running behind us holding on to the bikes etc. Many adults were trying to make them stop but it was in vain. We then had to cycle really steeply uphill and the kids were just incredible. One of the adult sheeperds shouted at them and acctualy started to through stones at them. I was greatfull for his assistance and I promise I never cycled that fast uphill! But it destroyed to positive image we had of Jordan in a stones throw. We wanted to leave as fast as possible. That night we were allowed to camp on a parking space close to Pella. But we did not visit the site neither that evening nor the next morning. We were on thr run because of some misguided, frustrated and angry children which have no idea but see things which they do not understand and the images are not being rectified by their parents.
Well lets hope it gets better in Jordan otherwise we will be spendind our remaining times in Israel.
De Saida a Damascos
De Saida nos dirigimos hacia el sur de las montanhas de el Libano. Barbara no estaba muy contenta de tener que encontrarse de nuevo con las subidas pero confiaba que mereciese la pena el parque natural que ibamos a visitar (Reserva Natural de Cedros de Chouf). Este parque natural es el mas grande de el Libano y tiene arboles de hasta 4000 anhos. Llegamos a Chouf despues de unas 5 horas y media de duras subidas. La ruta por suerte no solo nos deparo subida sino tambien unos hermosos pueblos y el hotel mas caro de todo el Libano. En Chouf nos alojamos en un bonito hotel/hostal que es rejentado por las autoridades del parque.
Tuvimos la suerte de que Barbara fue a preguntar a la oficina del parque acerca de las rutas de senderismo. Alli conocio a Massimo, un profesor de Agricultura Italiano que estaba trabajando en la creacion de mapas GPS de la zona. Massimo nos creo un mapa de la ruta y nos dejo un GPS para que todo fuese mas facil. Al dia siguiente Barbara (la novia de Massimo) nos llevo en coche a el comienzo de la ruta. La caminata fue genial. Caminamos por unas 5 h (Carlos 6h porque bajo hasta el pueblo caminando) y pudimos observar unos de los cedros mas viejos (unos 4000 anhos). Esa noche cenamos en companhia de Massimo y Barbara y nos acabamos una botella de vino de la zona (Adriano tu vino esta mucho mejor).
Al dia siguiente seguimos camino de Balbeek en el famoso valle de Beka, sin embargo aun teniamos una dura subida de 10km en frente de nosostros. El valle estaba lleno de vinhedos y paramos en una bodega donde compramos otra botella de vino. El valle tambien tenia muchisimas plantaciones de arboles frutales. Tuvimos la suerte de que nos invitaran a almorzar. Precisamente fue un libanes que trabajaba en Suiza y como Barbara es Suiza se hicieron amigos rapidamente (buen rollito ehh!!). Llegamos a Balbeek y despues de dejar las cosas en le hotel nos dirijimos al hotel. Era tarde pero preguntamos en la entrada si podriamos usar las entradas al dia siguiente. En taquilla nos dijeron que si por lo que compramos las entradas. Despues de ver las impresionantes ruinas tuvimos la suerte de ser testigos de unos de las mas impresionantes puestas de sol de todo nuestro viaje. Tuvimos que salir porque cerraban y en la puerta el senhor que recogia las entradas nos dijo que no podiamos usar la entrada al dia siguiente. Nos sentimos bastante defraudados ya que hubiesemos esperado al dia siguiente. A pesar de todo ello tuvimos la suerte de contemplar una bella puesta de sol.
Al dia siguiente nos dirigimos a Damascos pero antes hicimos una parada para ver las ruinas de Anjar. Las ruinas estuvieron bien pero lo mejor (para Carlos) fue que pudimos ver un camaleon en su habitat natural. En Anjar cruzamos la frontera hacia Siria dejando atras el maravilloso valle de Beka. Despues de unos 5km de subida cruzamos a Siria y de alli nos esperaban unos 40 km mayormente de bajada.
Tuvimos la suerte de que Barbara fue a preguntar a la oficina del parque acerca de las rutas de senderismo. Alli conocio a Massimo, un profesor de Agricultura Italiano que estaba trabajando en la creacion de mapas GPS de la zona. Massimo nos creo un mapa de la ruta y nos dejo un GPS para que todo fuese mas facil. Al dia siguiente Barbara (la novia de Massimo) nos llevo en coche a el comienzo de la ruta. La caminata fue genial. Caminamos por unas 5 h (Carlos 6h porque bajo hasta el pueblo caminando) y pudimos observar unos de los cedros mas viejos (unos 4000 anhos). Esa noche cenamos en companhia de Massimo y Barbara y nos acabamos una botella de vino de la zona (Adriano tu vino esta mucho mejor).
Al dia siguiente seguimos camino de Balbeek en el famoso valle de Beka, sin embargo aun teniamos una dura subida de 10km en frente de nosostros. El valle estaba lleno de vinhedos y paramos en una bodega donde compramos otra botella de vino. El valle tambien tenia muchisimas plantaciones de arboles frutales. Tuvimos la suerte de que nos invitaran a almorzar. Precisamente fue un libanes que trabajaba en Suiza y como Barbara es Suiza se hicieron amigos rapidamente (buen rollito ehh!!). Llegamos a Balbeek y despues de dejar las cosas en le hotel nos dirijimos al hotel. Era tarde pero preguntamos en la entrada si podriamos usar las entradas al dia siguiente. En taquilla nos dijeron que si por lo que compramos las entradas. Despues de ver las impresionantes ruinas tuvimos la suerte de ser testigos de unos de las mas impresionantes puestas de sol de todo nuestro viaje. Tuvimos que salir porque cerraban y en la puerta el senhor que recogia las entradas nos dijo que no podiamos usar la entrada al dia siguiente. Nos sentimos bastante defraudados ya que hubiesemos esperado al dia siguiente. A pesar de todo ello tuvimos la suerte de contemplar una bella puesta de sol.
Al dia siguiente nos dirigimos a Damascos pero antes hicimos una parada para ver las ruinas de Anjar. Las ruinas estuvieron bien pero lo mejor (para Carlos) fue que pudimos ver un camaleon en su habitat natural. En Anjar cruzamos la frontera hacia Siria dejando atras el maravilloso valle de Beka. Despues de unos 5km de subida cruzamos a Siria y de alli nos esperaban unos 40 km mayormente de bajada.
Damascus, Hama and Palmyra, Bosra
We stayed in Damascus for 3 nights. The first day we visited the famous Umayyad mosque. Yes that is quite something. ALso the Souqh is worth visiting (if you want to buy things that is). We walked a lot but not with clear aims. Then at night we got into the main shopping street had a bite to eat and got lost. We ended up at a huge cemetery and turned down a road alongside it. There was a group of youngsters having happy slapping going on. They ignored us but one walked away from the group with a pistol in hand. I hope the victim is all right. I did not want to get involved and just a few hundred yards away was some security personal just ignoring the situation too soo nothing to look back too.THis was the first and only time so far that I felt I was in a place I should not be and we really get into places where no tourists go normally.
We came out at the Souqh and walked through it and again we were welcomed even though we were out of place in the Souqh at 10pm with most of the shops closing and no tourist crafts open. The next day we visited the national museum, the old trainstation and more suqh. Then it was time for us to catch the bus to Hama. The bikes stayed in Damascus so did most of our luggage. We were warned that it is the small EID celebrations and that taking buses will be complicated as everybody is travelling at that time of the year. But we were able to get to Hama all right.We imediatelybought tickets for the next morning to get to Palmyra or Tadmor as the syrians call it. Hama was both great and a disapointment. The oldest waterwheels are there, along the mighty Orontes river which we encountered pressed into a small chanel about 4 weeks earlier in the funny AL Ghab valley (one side very conservative the other side of the Valley very liberal if you remember) and of course in the Beka Valley where it is the main source of water and bringing it to live. Now in Hama you have those famous waterwheels. A lot of money goes into there maintenance and the creeking of them is stuff of legends in the Arabian world. Only there is no water left in the river. TO many Damms are keeping the river tiny and the polution and rubish is devastating it. What a pitty!!! We walked for about 8km along the river. The city is making a effort to keep it beautiful with its central park but the stench is not always maskable and the rubish is at best an eyesore. But the Norias are great!
On the way back we went through the Souqh and were invited into a seamstress workshop. We had a good laugh with them, nice Tea and then we took some pictures. We tried to explain to them that we would now like to get to a shop where we can develope them so they have a paper copy.This took some convincing and many misunderstandings but finaly we were able to find one. So they were able a few days later to picjk their fotos up.
In the evening we asked for where we can go and eat fish as we saw many fish stalls with hug trout and catfish and some varieties we don't know.
We were sent to Abu Abbas. Finding it was not easy but what an experience! In a small junction there was this grill set up, 2 tables and a freezer. They only served chicken or fish. Abu Abbas opend the freezer, we were able to chose our fish. When we did so the guy was surprised, that much for the two of you? Yes that 2kg trout has our names written on it! It was grilled and so so tasty, we filled our bellies.
On the way back we stumbled over an artist shop which invited us in. He served us tea and I ended up buying a little protrait of a Shoemaker in the Suqh. But I also got figs, Apricots, sweet pumpkin and some very special turkish goat cheese. And a great conversation with a painter and a poet!
The next morning we had an early start and went to Palmyra. The Bus ride was ok except that the bus was very full and our neighbours were a familly with 3 children and only two seats between the 5 of them. Unfortuantely one of the children was also sick and the smell was not very inviting but hey that's why we have normally our own transport.
Palmyra was everything you hear and less than what you expect. But maybe we should have stayed there for a few days and walked more? It is impressive, big and surounded by desert. The landscape is incredible, the colonaded street vast and the temples big, but the temple of Bal is a disapointment and I think arquitectonical we preferred Balbek. But Palmyra had a great setting! In Palmyra we had the worst lunch of our trip too. The restaurant owner was a nice man and trying very hard. But the food was awful and expensive. We were so disapointed that we were not even able to tell him that we did not like the food. THinking what he needed to do we came up with so many things that we decided he better just let it be. What a pitty but hey you need the good and the bad.
On the way to the bus we met Neo a South Korean guy travelling. He is a great guy and we really liked him. He shared the taxi with us to the bus, we were in the same bus to Damascus and then we took him along to our hotel in Damascus where he stayed a few nights. We went for dinner together and shared some really good moments. I hope to meet up with him again in the future.So Neo on your next trip come and visit us in Europe! Please!
We stayed 2 nights in Damascus as I wanted to sort out our Visa to Jordan and to visit the christian area of the souqh and also go to see the storyteller. Well we had the famous Icecream that was about it. The souqh was all closed as it was Eid. We did not see the killing of the sheeps in the streets but having Damascus so empty and all shops closed was amazing.
however I was not able to convince Carlos to go to one of the expensive restaurants so we ate a syrian burger + fruitjuice for less than a dollar instead!
The next morning we gave in to Carlos' itchy bum and started cycling towards Bosra. We wanted to stop and see some more sites along the way but after the St George church (second oldest church in Syria) and Marias church I decided I do not want to cycle up the hill and that we better find a spot to camp in the corn chamber of syria. Soon we were invited to tea by someone.
I was spirited away to the women.Where I had a nice conversation with Ausaf and her daughters. They invited me to stay the night and even though we stopped there at 2 pm I was nearly ready to say yes but I needed to discuss this with Carlos first.
He in the meantime got invited by Ali a guest at Ausafs house. We created some tension because I tought Ali is Ausafs husband so I said yes to her (after speaking to Carlos but none of us understood the problem at that moment). When Ausaf asked me if I would like to have a shower I said yes, just then ALi was like lets go. Hmmm go?, Where to? Well as we were welcomed in both houses we said we will stay at AUsaf. ALi then stormed off upset. We were embarrased and sorry. 30min later Ali showed up with a pick up. ASking us to load the bikes and to stay at his place. We had no choice. He took us to see his mechanical workshop and his parents (it was smelling delicious) then we went to his house where again I was wisked away to the Ladies. Luckily Ausaf showed up until this moment I am not sure who was Alis wife and what was her name. At least Carlos and I were allowed to sleep in the same room and the next morning we left early (no breakfast for us).
We reached Bosra at 8am and visited the famous black basalt amphiteather and city. It was very very interesting.
After Bosra we had to press on becaus we had to make it to the Jordanian border on Thursday as on Friday it is closed.
We pedaled hard and made it in time. Oue exit from Syria was regal as we had a police officer escorting us on his motorbike until the boarder. The crossing was ok, Jordan is trying to be a little more serious about all.SO more check points and eyscanning at the boarder.But very friendly nonetheless. our first impression of Jordan was great. Asking for direction we were invited to tea,coke and water and given a guide to find the right road out of the city. Very friendly. The only problem were the peoples driving and constant shoutinjg of Hello into our ears but hey that is their ways. That evening we reached Irbid another day of 120km and tired legs. In the hotel we met Sabine and Thomas again the couple who stopped us on our search for an hotel in Damascus.
We came out at the Souqh and walked through it and again we were welcomed even though we were out of place in the Souqh at 10pm with most of the shops closing and no tourist crafts open. The next day we visited the national museum, the old trainstation and more suqh. Then it was time for us to catch the bus to Hama. The bikes stayed in Damascus so did most of our luggage. We were warned that it is the small EID celebrations and that taking buses will be complicated as everybody is travelling at that time of the year. But we were able to get to Hama all right.We imediatelybought tickets for the next morning to get to Palmyra or Tadmor as the syrians call it. Hama was both great and a disapointment. The oldest waterwheels are there, along the mighty Orontes river which we encountered pressed into a small chanel about 4 weeks earlier in the funny AL Ghab valley (one side very conservative the other side of the Valley very liberal if you remember) and of course in the Beka Valley where it is the main source of water and bringing it to live. Now in Hama you have those famous waterwheels. A lot of money goes into there maintenance and the creeking of them is stuff of legends in the Arabian world. Only there is no water left in the river. TO many Damms are keeping the river tiny and the polution and rubish is devastating it. What a pitty!!! We walked for about 8km along the river. The city is making a effort to keep it beautiful with its central park but the stench is not always maskable and the rubish is at best an eyesore. But the Norias are great!
On the way back we went through the Souqh and were invited into a seamstress workshop. We had a good laugh with them, nice Tea and then we took some pictures. We tried to explain to them that we would now like to get to a shop where we can develope them so they have a paper copy.This took some convincing and many misunderstandings but finaly we were able to find one. So they were able a few days later to picjk their fotos up.
In the evening we asked for where we can go and eat fish as we saw many fish stalls with hug trout and catfish and some varieties we don't know.
We were sent to Abu Abbas. Finding it was not easy but what an experience! In a small junction there was this grill set up, 2 tables and a freezer. They only served chicken or fish. Abu Abbas opend the freezer, we were able to chose our fish. When we did so the guy was surprised, that much for the two of you? Yes that 2kg trout has our names written on it! It was grilled and so so tasty, we filled our bellies.
On the way back we stumbled over an artist shop which invited us in. He served us tea and I ended up buying a little protrait of a Shoemaker in the Suqh. But I also got figs, Apricots, sweet pumpkin and some very special turkish goat cheese. And a great conversation with a painter and a poet!
The next morning we had an early start and went to Palmyra. The Bus ride was ok except that the bus was very full and our neighbours were a familly with 3 children and only two seats between the 5 of them. Unfortuantely one of the children was also sick and the smell was not very inviting but hey that's why we have normally our own transport.
Palmyra was everything you hear and less than what you expect. But maybe we should have stayed there for a few days and walked more? It is impressive, big and surounded by desert. The landscape is incredible, the colonaded street vast and the temples big, but the temple of Bal is a disapointment and I think arquitectonical we preferred Balbek. But Palmyra had a great setting! In Palmyra we had the worst lunch of our trip too. The restaurant owner was a nice man and trying very hard. But the food was awful and expensive. We were so disapointed that we were not even able to tell him that we did not like the food. THinking what he needed to do we came up with so many things that we decided he better just let it be. What a pitty but hey you need the good and the bad.
On the way to the bus we met Neo a South Korean guy travelling. He is a great guy and we really liked him. He shared the taxi with us to the bus, we were in the same bus to Damascus and then we took him along to our hotel in Damascus where he stayed a few nights. We went for dinner together and shared some really good moments. I hope to meet up with him again in the future.So Neo on your next trip come and visit us in Europe! Please!
We stayed 2 nights in Damascus as I wanted to sort out our Visa to Jordan and to visit the christian area of the souqh and also go to see the storyteller. Well we had the famous Icecream that was about it. The souqh was all closed as it was Eid. We did not see the killing of the sheeps in the streets but having Damascus so empty and all shops closed was amazing.
however I was not able to convince Carlos to go to one of the expensive restaurants so we ate a syrian burger + fruitjuice for less than a dollar instead!
The next morning we gave in to Carlos' itchy bum and started cycling towards Bosra. We wanted to stop and see some more sites along the way but after the St George church (second oldest church in Syria) and Marias church I decided I do not want to cycle up the hill and that we better find a spot to camp in the corn chamber of syria. Soon we were invited to tea by someone.
I was spirited away to the women.Where I had a nice conversation with Ausaf and her daughters. They invited me to stay the night and even though we stopped there at 2 pm I was nearly ready to say yes but I needed to discuss this with Carlos first.
He in the meantime got invited by Ali a guest at Ausafs house. We created some tension because I tought Ali is Ausafs husband so I said yes to her (after speaking to Carlos but none of us understood the problem at that moment). When Ausaf asked me if I would like to have a shower I said yes, just then ALi was like lets go. Hmmm go?, Where to? Well as we were welcomed in both houses we said we will stay at AUsaf. ALi then stormed off upset. We were embarrased and sorry. 30min later Ali showed up with a pick up. ASking us to load the bikes and to stay at his place. We had no choice. He took us to see his mechanical workshop and his parents (it was smelling delicious) then we went to his house where again I was wisked away to the Ladies. Luckily Ausaf showed up until this moment I am not sure who was Alis wife and what was her name. At least Carlos and I were allowed to sleep in the same room and the next morning we left early (no breakfast for us).
We reached Bosra at 8am and visited the famous black basalt amphiteather and city. It was very very interesting.
After Bosra we had to press on becaus we had to make it to the Jordanian border on Thursday as on Friday it is closed.
We pedaled hard and made it in time. Oue exit from Syria was regal as we had a police officer escorting us on his motorbike until the boarder. The crossing was ok, Jordan is trying to be a little more serious about all.SO more check points and eyscanning at the boarder.But very friendly nonetheless. our first impression of Jordan was great. Asking for direction we were invited to tea,coke and water and given a guide to find the right road out of the city. Very friendly. The only problem were the peoples driving and constant shoutinjg of Hello into our ears but hey that is their ways. That evening we reached Irbid another day of 120km and tired legs. In the hotel we met Sabine and Thomas again the couple who stopped us on our search for an hotel in Damascus.
De Amchit a Saida
Hola a tod@s. Llevo un buen tiempo sin escribir por lo que ahora toca una buena dosis para poneros al dia.
Como ya os habia dicho la rueda delantera de mi bici se rompio y tuvimos que comprar una para poder seguir el viaje. Por suerte llegando a Amchit conocimos a Cesar y el nos llevo hasta una tienda de bicicletas donde pude comprar una rueda de decente calidad.
Cesar se fue de pesca submarina una noche y trajo unos 5kg de pescado que nos comimos en su casa. Para hacer hambre para la cena ese dia nos fuimos en bici hasta la gruta de Jeita. Ese lugar es realmente increible. La gruta es enorme. Dentro se pueden ver estalagtitas y estalagmitas enormes y hasta navegamos en el rio que tiene la gruta. Desafortunadamente no dejan tomar fotos de la gruta por lo que el unico sitio donde quedo gravado fue en nuestra memoria. La verdad que este es un sitio para visitar si viajais a Beirut.
Salimos de Amchit hace unos 15 dias mas o menos. Nuestra ruta ruta seguia la costa hacia Beirut y el sur de el Libano. Fuimos suficientemente inteligentes para salir temprano en la manhana por lo que evitamos la saturacion de trafico que normalmente hay. Unas de las cosas que pudimos darnos cuenta es que cuanto mas al sur te vas la costa esta mas y mas sucia. Mientras que en Amchit la costa era como puede ser cualquier sitio de playa en Espanha, el sur la costa estaba llena de suciedad (solo las playas privada se salvavan). Pero a pesar de eso el Libano es un bonito pais.
Llegamos a Saida bastante tarde. Fueron unos 100km y despues de haber descansado en Amchit por unos 4 dias se hizo duro el volver a pedalear. Saida es una pequenha ciudad la cual es muy interesante. La zona vieja esta llena de pequenhas calles en las cuales se asenta un zoco que esta lleno de vida hasta que anochece (normalmente la electricidad es restringida a unas ciertas horas al dia). En Saida visitamos su pequenho castillo el cual se adentra en el mar. Tambien visitamos un museo del Jabon el cual fue realmente interesante. El Jabon se hace de aceite de oliva y laurel, y tambien lo hay con aromas.
Despues de dormir en Saida viajamos en minibus a Sur (la ultima ciudad antes de Israel y bajo proteccion de Naciones Unidas). Sur es muy bonita. Es una ciudad con gran actividad pesquera y sus ruinas son interesantes. Lo mejor para mi fue la playa. unos 3km de arena blanca y limpia. Fue una pena no tener tiempo para banharse.
Como ya os habia dicho la rueda delantera de mi bici se rompio y tuvimos que comprar una para poder seguir el viaje. Por suerte llegando a Amchit conocimos a Cesar y el nos llevo hasta una tienda de bicicletas donde pude comprar una rueda de decente calidad.
Cesar se fue de pesca submarina una noche y trajo unos 5kg de pescado que nos comimos en su casa. Para hacer hambre para la cena ese dia nos fuimos en bici hasta la gruta de Jeita. Ese lugar es realmente increible. La gruta es enorme. Dentro se pueden ver estalagtitas y estalagmitas enormes y hasta navegamos en el rio que tiene la gruta. Desafortunadamente no dejan tomar fotos de la gruta por lo que el unico sitio donde quedo gravado fue en nuestra memoria. La verdad que este es un sitio para visitar si viajais a Beirut.
Salimos de Amchit hace unos 15 dias mas o menos. Nuestra ruta ruta seguia la costa hacia Beirut y el sur de el Libano. Fuimos suficientemente inteligentes para salir temprano en la manhana por lo que evitamos la saturacion de trafico que normalmente hay. Unas de las cosas que pudimos darnos cuenta es que cuanto mas al sur te vas la costa esta mas y mas sucia. Mientras que en Amchit la costa era como puede ser cualquier sitio de playa en Espanha, el sur la costa estaba llena de suciedad (solo las playas privada se salvavan). Pero a pesar de eso el Libano es un bonito pais.
Llegamos a Saida bastante tarde. Fueron unos 100km y despues de haber descansado en Amchit por unos 4 dias se hizo duro el volver a pedalear. Saida es una pequenha ciudad la cual es muy interesante. La zona vieja esta llena de pequenhas calles en las cuales se asenta un zoco que esta lleno de vida hasta que anochece (normalmente la electricidad es restringida a unas ciertas horas al dia). En Saida visitamos su pequenho castillo el cual se adentra en el mar. Tambien visitamos un museo del Jabon el cual fue realmente interesante. El Jabon se hace de aceite de oliva y laurel, y tambien lo hay con aromas.
Despues de dormir en Saida viajamos en minibus a Sur (la ultima ciudad antes de Israel y bajo proteccion de Naciones Unidas). Sur es muy bonita. Es una ciudad con gran actividad pesquera y sus ruinas son interesantes. Lo mejor para mi fue la playa. unos 3km de arena blanca y limpia. Fue una pena no tener tiempo para banharse.
Saida to Damascus
From Saida we keept on towards the central valley of Lebanon. Of course whenever you do not cycle right beside the coast you will have to get up the mountains. This time we chose a route only bringing us to 1800mosl. so it was not to bad. (Well we could not have gotten any higher in the south but of course 1000m lower.
To be fair this was not Carlos' wish but mine. I wanted to travel trought the Chouf. This is the biggest national park in Lebanon protecting 5% of its landmass. It is the home to Wolfes and many other cool animals but more importantly to the Cedar trees. It was spectacular. We only did about 60km that day and it was hot but we went via Beit en Din which was the former Mameluks capital city and some spectacular buildings remaind, we also passed the most expensive hotel in Lebanon and went on another hill through a beautiful valley with oaks, chestnuts etc in colors towards Masser al Chouf where we find a really nice hotel /hostel for the night managed by the national park authorities. I went for a stroll through the tiney village and went to the Nationalpark office where we met Massimo. A italian professor of Agriculture who is now doing a lot of PS and GIS work and who offered us his latest map of the CHouf with a route which he also loaded on GPS for us to have a dayhike there. Thank you so much Massimo this was generous of you. The next day Barbara his girlfriend (and a ex italian Slalom skiracer) drove us up the hill to the starting point of the hike and then we went on for the next 4h. What a beauty these forests are! ANd the Oaks were turning color. We also saw wolfpaw prints and a woodpecker. Carlos then decided to walk downhill, whereas I hitched a ride with the park wardens (and got invited to coffee, homegrown apples and a place to stay the next time). In the evening we finished off our bottle of Lebanese wine which needs a little more work for my taste and had another goooood dinner at the hotel.
Then it was time to tackle the last big mountain in Lebanon for us and to dropp into the famous (or infamous) Beka Valley. The uphill was ok, just long the downhill was thrilling and the heat in the Beka more than on the other side. We bought another bottle of wine in one of the wineries in the valley but the further north we rode along the valley the less wine there was growing and more wheat, Olives, apples and mandarine orchards were visible. ALso you saw many more tents some of the seasonal workers picking the fruit some from the refugees etc. Headscarfs got more and more usual and the green banner of Hizbollah more and more visible. But the people got more and more friendly and it was a joy to be back in the muslim area. We were invited for Lunch by some nice ladies one covered one very hip and her brother who lives in Luzern Switzerland. The invitation to stay the night followed but we declined. We arrived to Balbek and went straight from the hotel to the ruins because it was nearly time for the sunset.
It was great. Sacsayhuaman in Cusco cannot compare to the stones the Romans used to build this. Huge is the wordfor it. I wonder how they could move it. Coloms 40m high and even though probably 3m in diameter still looking elegant. It was outstanding! and all was redish and in perfect evening light. But unfortunately by 6pm it was dark. So we had a stroll through the city trying to find something to eat and drink. There was not too much choice and shops closed early as there were the usual power cuts. A Lebanese told us, the Lebanese people are rich but the government is poor and I think in general that is very true.
The next morning we left. We made the decision not to go to Homs and Hama in Syria but to go to Damascus. This was based on me not wanting to ride the bike to Palmyra and Carlos not wanting to transport it by bus. So back south in the Beka Valley we went again. Visiting Anjar but not stopiong in Zahle the food capital of Lebanon. IN ANjar we visited the Umayad palace and found a Chameleon.
Then up the hill we went and crossed the Lebanese boarder with no problems. Then we had to cross at least 5km of no mans land between the two countries before we reached... no not the boarder but a huge dutyfree shopping center on the syrian side including a Dunkin' no Donughts (which was closed down).
After a coffee crossed into Syria with no problems. By that time I was very tired we had done more than 80km and most of it was either uphill or flat (but Carlos had the pedal on the gas even on the flat nothing with gently rolling). Carlos tried to goad me with saying now it is all down hill, well it wasn't. So we decided to do a detour through the Barad valley and maybe we could camp there somewhere. That was quite something, There are really old remains there. Caves in a sandstone valley very narrow. AN old railway line going up the mountain beside the river gorge. But we did not stop for camping and then it became really poblated again and the chance was gone. Before we knew and after a exhilarating downhill we were on the outskirts of Damascus where a friendly local onbike showed us the right entrance to the City.The only problem were the many steep uphills along the way. Then we hit Damascus center and a sign pointing up another hill for the center and one down. SO we asked a local which way to take and he said down.... After 3km the road stopped and turned away from the center and only a one way road came up the hill from the center. This was the ugly bit. we had to ride on a narrow sidewalk with trees obtrusing our way and the sun had set and it got dark. After 5km that way and many swearwords we hit a twoway road again and a very bussy round about.Only by that time it was pitch dark and heavy traffic was sourounding us. We were fairly lost and had problems to figure out where to go. Finally the police was able to point us in the right direction and on we went. We hit the right spot and only had to find the hotel. A friendly local tried to divert us to his hotel but the price was a little to much for us. Finally he relented and showed us where to go.We entered a ally (on foot) of the souqh and where stopped by two travellers who could not believe we travelled by bike. The anounced that the hotel is just around the corner but there was only one room left when they arrived, so we hurried along. Shortly after we found the hotel and a room for us in the AL Saada hotel. A friendly hangout.
We then went back to the Souqh and the first time in nearly a month had something with potatos to eat. It was pricy (3dollars hehehe) but tasty.
To be fair this was not Carlos' wish but mine. I wanted to travel trought the Chouf. This is the biggest national park in Lebanon protecting 5% of its landmass. It is the home to Wolfes and many other cool animals but more importantly to the Cedar trees. It was spectacular. We only did about 60km that day and it was hot but we went via Beit en Din which was the former Mameluks capital city and some spectacular buildings remaind, we also passed the most expensive hotel in Lebanon and went on another hill through a beautiful valley with oaks, chestnuts etc in colors towards Masser al Chouf where we find a really nice hotel /hostel for the night managed by the national park authorities. I went for a stroll through the tiney village and went to the Nationalpark office where we met Massimo. A italian professor of Agriculture who is now doing a lot of PS and GIS work and who offered us his latest map of the CHouf with a route which he also loaded on GPS for us to have a dayhike there. Thank you so much Massimo this was generous of you. The next day Barbara his girlfriend (and a ex italian Slalom skiracer) drove us up the hill to the starting point of the hike and then we went on for the next 4h. What a beauty these forests are! ANd the Oaks were turning color. We also saw wolfpaw prints and a woodpecker. Carlos then decided to walk downhill, whereas I hitched a ride with the park wardens (and got invited to coffee, homegrown apples and a place to stay the next time). In the evening we finished off our bottle of Lebanese wine which needs a little more work for my taste and had another goooood dinner at the hotel.
Then it was time to tackle the last big mountain in Lebanon for us and to dropp into the famous (or infamous) Beka Valley. The uphill was ok, just long the downhill was thrilling and the heat in the Beka more than on the other side. We bought another bottle of wine in one of the wineries in the valley but the further north we rode along the valley the less wine there was growing and more wheat, Olives, apples and mandarine orchards were visible. ALso you saw many more tents some of the seasonal workers picking the fruit some from the refugees etc. Headscarfs got more and more usual and the green banner of Hizbollah more and more visible. But the people got more and more friendly and it was a joy to be back in the muslim area. We were invited for Lunch by some nice ladies one covered one very hip and her brother who lives in Luzern Switzerland. The invitation to stay the night followed but we declined. We arrived to Balbek and went straight from the hotel to the ruins because it was nearly time for the sunset.
It was great. Sacsayhuaman in Cusco cannot compare to the stones the Romans used to build this. Huge is the wordfor it. I wonder how they could move it. Coloms 40m high and even though probably 3m in diameter still looking elegant. It was outstanding! and all was redish and in perfect evening light. But unfortunately by 6pm it was dark. So we had a stroll through the city trying to find something to eat and drink. There was not too much choice and shops closed early as there were the usual power cuts. A Lebanese told us, the Lebanese people are rich but the government is poor and I think in general that is very true.
The next morning we left. We made the decision not to go to Homs and Hama in Syria but to go to Damascus. This was based on me not wanting to ride the bike to Palmyra and Carlos not wanting to transport it by bus. So back south in the Beka Valley we went again. Visiting Anjar but not stopiong in Zahle the food capital of Lebanon. IN ANjar we visited the Umayad palace and found a Chameleon.
Then up the hill we went and crossed the Lebanese boarder with no problems. Then we had to cross at least 5km of no mans land between the two countries before we reached... no not the boarder but a huge dutyfree shopping center on the syrian side including a Dunkin' no Donughts (which was closed down).
After a coffee crossed into Syria with no problems. By that time I was very tired we had done more than 80km and most of it was either uphill or flat (but Carlos had the pedal on the gas even on the flat nothing with gently rolling). Carlos tried to goad me with saying now it is all down hill, well it wasn't. So we decided to do a detour through the Barad valley and maybe we could camp there somewhere. That was quite something, There are really old remains there. Caves in a sandstone valley very narrow. AN old railway line going up the mountain beside the river gorge. But we did not stop for camping and then it became really poblated again and the chance was gone. Before we knew and after a exhilarating downhill we were on the outskirts of Damascus where a friendly local onbike showed us the right entrance to the City.The only problem were the many steep uphills along the way. Then we hit Damascus center and a sign pointing up another hill for the center and one down. SO we asked a local which way to take and he said down.... After 3km the road stopped and turned away from the center and only a one way road came up the hill from the center. This was the ugly bit. we had to ride on a narrow sidewalk with trees obtrusing our way and the sun had set and it got dark. After 5km that way and many swearwords we hit a twoway road again and a very bussy round about.Only by that time it was pitch dark and heavy traffic was sourounding us. We were fairly lost and had problems to figure out where to go. Finally the police was able to point us in the right direction and on we went. We hit the right spot and only had to find the hotel. A friendly local tried to divert us to his hotel but the price was a little to much for us. Finally he relented and showed us where to go.We entered a ally (on foot) of the souqh and where stopped by two travellers who could not believe we travelled by bike. The anounced that the hotel is just around the corner but there was only one room left when they arrived, so we hurried along. Shortly after we found the hotel and a room for us in the AL Saada hotel. A friendly hangout.
We then went back to the Souqh and the first time in nearly a month had something with potatos to eat. It was pricy (3dollars hehehe) but tasty.
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