From Irbid we wanted to travel to Umm Quais from where you have stunning views of the sea of Galilea. We decided to take the side road. Well Rolf thank you for the warning, these hills are steep and the english built all the roads on them. Straigh up is the only way that worked for them!\
Carlos says when you have to push the bike you should not be there. Well I should not have been there!
Umm Quais has a nice Amphiteather and Colonaded street but the highlight was the mausoleum. It is supposedly already mentioned in the Bible (Matt 8,28I think) as the place where Jesus met some possed people living on a graveyard and he healed them by moving the devil to a herd of pigs who jumped over the cliff into the sea od Galilea and drowned. Well read it yourself yeah.
From Umm Quais we dropped into the Jordan Valley on the way to another Roman site Pella. The Valley is very green and as Jordan is the only neighbouring country which offically accepts Israel they have an open boarder and no further animosities. Jordans population consists of 60% palestinians. Traffic on the road was moderate due to it being Friday. But that also ment the kids were out. I have never experienced something like this and it was a shock. There were these two young teenagers,one on the right side of the road trying to stop me, stick in hand and arms waving. Carlos was in the meantime shouting his hello to the other guy on the other side. I though hmmm I should make sure I give him a wide berth but I could not go further into the road due to the oncoming traffic. I was not sure if he will try to grab me or put the stick into my wheel to stop me. When I passed him he jumped forward trying to hold on to my legg (the upper part) I was really shocked because he was far to young to behave in this strange sexiest way. Well I had a go at him but of course he escaped. I still thought it to be a isolated incident, stressful not so more as being touched by him but because they do not consider how dangerous it is for you on a loaded bike and because it is such a no do in this culture and they would not even shake hands with one of there woman.
Later on we hit the village and there were hords of kids. They were really aggressive and disrespectful. We fled into a falafel shop and they did not even leave us alone when the owner sent them way. It was horrible. When we took off they were running behind us holding on to the bikes etc. Many adults were trying to make them stop but it was in vain. We then had to cycle really steeply uphill and the kids were just incredible. One of the adult sheeperds shouted at them and acctualy started to through stones at them. I was greatfull for his assistance and I promise I never cycled that fast uphill! But it destroyed to positive image we had of Jordan in a stones throw. We wanted to leave as fast as possible. That night we were allowed to camp on a parking space close to Pella. But we did not visit the site neither that evening nor the next morning. We were on thr run because of some misguided, frustrated and angry children which have no idea but see things which they do not understand and the images are not being rectified by their parents.
Well lets hope it gets better in Jordan otherwise we will be spendind our remaining times in Israel.
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