Jordan Irbid to Amman

From Irbid we wanted to travel to Umm Quais from where you have stunning views of the sea of Galilea. We decided to take the side road. Well Rolf thank you for the warning, these hills are steep and the english built all the roads on them. Straigh up is the only way that worked for them!\
Carlos says when you have to push the bike you should not be there. Well I should not have been there!
Umm Quais has a nice  Amphiteather and Colonaded street but the highlight was the mausoleum. It is supposedly already mentioned in the Bible (Matt 8,28I think) as the place where Jesus met some possed people living on a graveyard and he healed them by moving the devil to a herd of pigs who jumped over the cliff into the sea od Galilea and drowned. Well read it yourself yeah.
From Umm Quais we dropped into the Jordan Valley on the way to another Roman site Pella. The Valley is very green and as Jordan is the only neighbouring country which offically accepts Israel they have an open boarder and no further animosities. Jordans population consists of 60% palestinians. Traffic on the road was moderate due to it being Friday. But that also ment the kids were out. I have never experienced something like this and it was a shock. There were these two young teenagers,one on the right side of the road trying to stop me, stick in hand and arms waving. Carlos was in the meantime shouting his hello to the other guy on the other side. I though hmmm I should make sure I give him a wide berth but I could not go further into the road due to the oncoming traffic. I was not sure if he will try to grab me or put the stick into my wheel to stop me. When I passed him he jumped forward trying to hold on to my legg (the upper part) I was really shocked because he was far to young to behave in this strange sexiest way. Well I had a go at him but of course he escaped. I still thought it to be a isolated incident, stressful not so more as being touched by him but because they do not consider how dangerous it is for you on a loaded bike and because it is such a no do in this culture and they would not even shake hands with one of there woman.
Later on we hit the village and there were hords of kids. They were really aggressive and disrespectful. We fled into a falafel shop and they did not even leave us alone when the owner sent them way. It was horrible. When we took off they were running behind us holding on to the bikes etc. Many adults were trying to make them stop but it was in vain. We then had to cycle really steeply uphill and the kids were just incredible. One of the adult sheeperds shouted at them and acctualy started to through stones at them. I was greatfull for his assistance and I promise I never cycled that fast uphill! But it destroyed to positive image we had of Jordan in a stones throw. We wanted to leave as fast as possible. That night we were allowed to  camp on a parking space close to Pella. But we did not visit the site neither that evening nor the next morning. We were on thr run because of some misguided, frustrated and angry children which have no idea but see things which they do not understand and the images are not being rectified by their parents.
Well lets hope it gets better in Jordan otherwise we will be spendind our remaining times in Israel.

De Saida a Damascos

De Saida nos dirigimos hacia el sur de las montanhas de el Libano. Barbara no estaba muy contenta de tener que encontrarse de nuevo con las subidas pero confiaba que mereciese la pena el parque natural que ibamos a visitar (Reserva Natural de Cedros de Chouf). Este parque natural es el mas grande de el Libano y tiene arboles de hasta 4000 anhos. Llegamos a Chouf despues de unas 5 horas y media de duras subidas. La ruta por suerte no solo nos deparo subida sino tambien unos hermosos pueblos y el hotel mas caro de todo el Libano. En Chouf nos alojamos en un bonito hotel/hostal que es rejentado por las autoridades del parque.

Tuvimos la suerte de que Barbara fue a preguntar a la oficina del parque acerca de las rutas de senderismo. Alli conocio a Massimo, un profesor de Agricultura Italiano que estaba trabajando en la creacion de mapas GPS de la zona. Massimo nos creo un mapa de la ruta y nos dejo un GPS para que todo fuese mas facil. Al dia siguiente Barbara (la novia de Massimo) nos llevo en coche a el comienzo de la ruta. La caminata fue genial. Caminamos por unas 5 h (Carlos 6h porque bajo hasta el pueblo caminando) y pudimos observar unos de los cedros mas viejos (unos 4000 anhos). Esa noche cenamos en companhia de Massimo y Barbara y nos acabamos una botella de vino de la zona (Adriano tu vino esta mucho mejor).

Al dia siguiente seguimos camino de Balbeek en el famoso valle de Beka, sin embargo aun teniamos una dura subida de 10km en frente de nosostros. El valle estaba lleno de vinhedos y paramos en una bodega donde compramos otra botella de vino. El valle tambien tenia muchisimas plantaciones de arboles frutales. Tuvimos la suerte de que nos invitaran a almorzar. Precisamente fue un libanes que trabajaba en Suiza y como Barbara es Suiza se hicieron amigos rapidamente (buen rollito ehh!!). Llegamos a Balbeek y despues de dejar las cosas en le hotel nos dirijimos al hotel. Era tarde pero preguntamos en la entrada si podriamos usar las entradas al dia siguiente. En taquilla nos dijeron que si por lo que compramos las entradas. Despues de ver las impresionantes ruinas tuvimos la suerte de ser testigos de unos de las mas impresionantes puestas de sol de todo nuestro viaje. Tuvimos que salir porque cerraban y en la puerta el senhor que recogia las entradas nos dijo que no podiamos usar la entrada al dia siguiente. Nos sentimos bastante defraudados ya que hubiesemos esperado al dia siguiente. A pesar de todo ello tuvimos la suerte de contemplar una bella puesta de sol.

Al dia siguiente nos dirigimos a Damascos pero antes hicimos una parada para ver las ruinas de Anjar. Las ruinas estuvieron bien pero lo mejor (para Carlos) fue que pudimos ver un camaleon en su habitat natural. En Anjar cruzamos la frontera hacia Siria dejando atras el maravilloso valle de Beka. Despues de unos 5km de subida cruzamos a Siria y de alli nos esperaban unos 40 km mayormente de bajada.

Damascus, Hama and Palmyra, Bosra

We stayed in Damascus for 3 nights. The first day we visited the famous Umayyad mosque. Yes that is quite something. ALso the Souqh is worth visiting (if you want to buy things that is). We walked a lot but not with clear aims. Then at night we got into the main shopping street had a bite to eat and got lost. We ended up at a huge cemetery and turned down a road alongside it. There was a group of youngsters having happy slapping going on. They ignored us but one walked away from the group with a pistol in hand. I hope the victim is all right. I did not want to get involved and just a few hundred yards away was some security personal just ignoring the situation too soo nothing to look back too.THis was the first and only time so far that I felt I was in a place I should not be and we really get into places where no tourists go normally.

We came out at the Souqh and walked through it and again we were welcomed even though we were out of place in the Souqh at 10pm with most of the shops closing and no tourist crafts open. The next day we visited the national museum, the old trainstation and more suqh. Then it was time for us to catch the bus to Hama. The bikes  stayed in Damascus so did most of our luggage. We were warned that it is  the small EID celebrations and that taking buses will be complicated as everybody is travelling at that time of the year. But we were able to get to Hama all right.We imediatelybought tickets for the next morning to get to Palmyra or Tadmor as the syrians call it. Hama was both great and a disapointment. The oldest  waterwheels are there, along the mighty Orontes river which we encountered pressed into a small chanel about 4 weeks earlier in the funny AL Ghab valley (one side very conservative the other side of the Valley very liberal if you remember) and of course in the Beka Valley where it is the main source of water and bringing it to live. Now in Hama you have those famous waterwheels. A lot of money goes into there maintenance and the creeking of them is stuff of legends in the Arabian world. Only there is no water left in the river. TO many Damms are keeping the river tiny and the polution and rubish is devastating it. What a pitty!!! We walked for about 8km along the river. The city is making a effort to keep it beautiful with its central park but the stench is not always maskable and the rubish is at best an eyesore. But the Norias are great!
On the way back we went through the Souqh and were invited into a seamstress workshop. We had a good laugh with them, nice Tea and then we took some pictures. We tried to explain to them that we would now like to get to a shop where we can develope them so they have a paper copy.This took some convincing and many misunderstandings but finaly we were able to  find one. So they were able a few days later to picjk their fotos up.
In the evening we asked for where we can go and eat fish as we saw many fish stalls with hug trout and catfish and some varieties we don't know.
We were sent to Abu Abbas. Finding it was not easy but what an experience! In a small junction there was this grill set up, 2 tables and a freezer. They only served chicken or fish. Abu Abbas opend the freezer, we were able to chose our fish. When we did so the guy was surprised, that much for the two of you? Yes that 2kg trout has our names written on it! It was grilled and so so tasty, we filled our bellies.
On the way back we stumbled over an artist shop which invited us in. He served us tea and I ended up buying a little protrait of a Shoemaker in the Suqh. But  I also got figs, Apricots, sweet pumpkin and some very special turkish goat cheese. And a great conversation with a painter and a poet!
The next morning we had an early start and went to Palmyra. The Bus ride was ok except that the bus was very full and our neighbours were a familly with 3 children and only two seats between the 5 of them. Unfortuantely one of the children was also sick and the smell was not very inviting but hey that's why we have normally our own transport.
Palmyra was everything you hear and less than what you expect. But maybe we should have stayed there for a few days and walked more? It is impressive, big and surounded by desert. The landscape is incredible, the colonaded street vast and the temples big, but the temple of Bal is a disapointment and I think arquitectonical we preferred Balbek. But Palmyra had a great setting! In Palmyra we had the worst lunch of our trip too. The restaurant owner was a nice man and trying very hard. But the food was awful and expensive. We were so disapointed that we were not even able to tell him that we did not like the food. THinking what he needed to do we came up with so many things that we decided he better just let it be. What a pitty but hey you need the good and the bad.
On the way to the bus we met Neo a South Korean guy travelling. He is a great guy and we really liked him. He shared the taxi with us to the bus, we were in the same bus to Damascus and then we took him along to our hotel in Damascus where he stayed a few nights. We went for dinner together and shared some really good moments. I hope to meet up with him again in the future.So Neo on your next trip come and visit us in Europe! Please!
We stayed 2 nights in Damascus as I wanted to sort out our Visa to Jordan and to visit the christian area of the souqh and also go to see the storyteller. Well we had the famous Icecream that was about it. The souqh was all closed as it was Eid. We did not see the killing of the sheeps in the streets but having Damascus so empty and all shops closed was amazing.
however I was not able to convince Carlos to go to one of the expensive restaurants so we ate a syrian burger + fruitjuice for less than a dollar instead!
The next morning we gave in to Carlos' itchy bum and started cycling towards Bosra. We wanted to stop and see some more sites along the way but after the St George church (second oldest church in Syria) and Marias church I decided I do not want to cycle up the hill and that we better find  a spot to camp in the corn chamber of syria. Soon we were invited to tea by someone.
I was spirited away to the women.Where I had a nice conversation with Ausaf and her daughters. They invited me to stay the night and even though we stopped there at 2 pm I was nearly ready to say yes but I needed to discuss this with Carlos first.
He in the meantime got invited by Ali a guest at Ausafs house. We created some tension because I tought Ali is Ausafs husband so I said yes to her (after speaking to Carlos but none of us understood the problem at that moment). When Ausaf asked me if I would like to have a shower I said yes, just then ALi was like lets  go. Hmmm go?, Where to? Well as we were welcomed in both houses we said we will stay at AUsaf. ALi then stormed off upset. We were embarrased and sorry. 30min later Ali showed up with a pick up. ASking us to load the bikes and to stay at his place. We had no choice. He took us to see his mechanical workshop and his parents (it was smelling delicious) then we went to his house where again I was wisked away to the Ladies. Luckily Ausaf showed up until this moment I am not sure who was Alis wife and what was her name. At least Carlos and I were allowed to sleep in the same room and the next morning we left early (no breakfast for us).
We reached Bosra at 8am and visited the famous black basalt amphiteather and city. It was very very interesting.
After Bosra we had to press on becaus we had to make it to the Jordanian border on Thursday as on Friday it is closed.
We pedaled hard and made it in time. Oue exit from Syria was regal as we had a police officer escorting us on his motorbike until the boarder. The crossing was ok, Jordan is trying to be a little more serious about all.SO more check points and eyscanning at the boarder.But very friendly nonetheless. our first impression of Jordan was great. Asking for direction we were invited to tea,coke and water and given a guide to find the right road out of the city. Very friendly. The only problem were the peoples driving and constant shoutinjg of Hello into our ears but hey that is their ways. That evening we reached Irbid another day of 120km and tired legs. In the hotel we met Sabine and Thomas again the couple who stopped us on our search for an hotel in Damascus.

De Amchit a Saida

Hola a tod@s. Llevo un buen tiempo sin escribir por lo que ahora toca una buena dosis para poneros al dia.

Como ya os habia dicho la rueda delantera de mi bici se rompio y tuvimos que comprar una para poder seguir el viaje. Por suerte llegando a Amchit conocimos a Cesar y el nos llevo hasta una tienda de bicicletas donde pude comprar una rueda de decente calidad.

Cesar se fue de pesca submarina una noche y trajo unos 5kg de pescado que nos comimos en su casa. Para hacer hambre para la cena ese dia nos fuimos en bici hasta la gruta de Jeita. Ese lugar es realmente increible. La gruta es enorme. Dentro se pueden ver estalagtitas y estalagmitas enormes y hasta navegamos en el rio que tiene la gruta. Desafortunadamente no dejan tomar fotos de la gruta por lo que el unico sitio donde quedo gravado fue en nuestra memoria. La verdad que este es un sitio para visitar si viajais a Beirut.

Salimos de Amchit hace unos 15 dias mas o menos. Nuestra ruta ruta seguia la costa hacia Beirut y el sur de el Libano. Fuimos suficientemente inteligentes para salir temprano en la manhana por lo que evitamos la saturacion de trafico que normalmente hay. Unas de las cosas que pudimos darnos cuenta es que cuanto mas al sur te vas la costa esta mas y mas sucia. Mientras que en Amchit la costa era como puede ser cualquier sitio de playa en Espanha, el sur la costa estaba llena de suciedad (solo las playas privada se salvavan). Pero a pesar de eso el Libano es un bonito pais.

Llegamos a Saida bastante tarde. Fueron unos 100km y despues de haber descansado en Amchit por unos 4 dias se hizo duro el volver a pedalear. Saida es una pequenha ciudad la cual es muy interesante. La zona vieja esta llena de pequenhas calles en las cuales se asenta un zoco que esta lleno de vida hasta que anochece (normalmente la electricidad es restringida a unas ciertas horas al dia). En Saida visitamos su pequenho castillo el cual se adentra en el mar. Tambien visitamos un museo del Jabon el cual fue realmente interesante. El Jabon se hace de aceite de oliva y laurel, y tambien lo hay con aromas.

Despues de dormir en Saida viajamos en minibus a Sur (la ultima ciudad antes de Israel y bajo proteccion de Naciones Unidas). Sur es muy bonita. Es una ciudad con gran actividad pesquera y sus ruinas son interesantes. Lo mejor para mi fue la playa. unos 3km de arena blanca y limpia. Fue una pena no tener tiempo para banharse.

Saida to Damascus

From Saida we keept on towards the central valley of Lebanon. Of course whenever you do not cycle right beside the coast you will have to get up the mountains. This time we chose a route only bringing us to 1800mosl. so it was not to bad. (Well we could not have gotten any higher in the south but of course 1000m lower.
To be fair this was not Carlos' wish but mine. I wanted to travel trought the Chouf. This is the biggest national park in Lebanon protecting 5% of its landmass. It is the home to Wolfes and many other cool animals but more importantly to the Cedar trees. It was spectacular. We only did about 60km that day and it was hot but we went via Beit en Din which was the former Mameluks capital city and some spectacular buildings remaind, we also passed the most expensive hotel in Lebanon and went on another hill through a beautiful valley with oaks, chestnuts etc in colors towards Masser al Chouf where we find a really nice hotel /hostel for the night managed by the national park authorities. I went for a stroll through the tiney village and went to the Nationalpark office where we met Massimo. A italian professor of Agriculture who is now doing a lot of PS and GIS work and who offered us his latest map of the CHouf with a route which he also loaded on GPS for us to have a dayhike there. Thank you so much Massimo this was generous of you. The next day Barbara his girlfriend (and a ex italian Slalom skiracer) drove us up the hill to the starting point of the hike and then we went on for the next 4h. What a beauty these forests are! ANd the Oaks were turning color. We also saw wolfpaw prints and a woodpecker. Carlos then decided to walk downhill, whereas I hitched a ride with the park wardens  (and got invited to coffee, homegrown apples and a place to stay the next time). In the evening we finished off our bottle of Lebanese wine which needs a little more work for my taste and had another goooood dinner at the hotel.
Then it was time to tackle the last big mountain in Lebanon for us and to dropp into the famous (or infamous) Beka Valley. The uphill was ok, just long the downhill was thrilling and the heat in the Beka more than on the other side. We bought another bottle of wine in one of the wineries in the valley but the further north we rode along the valley the less wine there was growing and more wheat, Olives, apples and mandarine orchards  were visible. ALso you saw many more tents some of the seasonal workers picking the fruit some  from the refugees etc. Headscarfs got more and more usual and the green banner of Hizbollah more and more visible. But the people got more and more friendly and it was a joy to be back in the muslim area. We were invited for Lunch by some nice ladies one covered one very hip and  her brother who lives in Luzern Switzerland. The invitation to stay the night followed but we declined. We arrived to Balbek and went straight from the hotel to the ruins because it was nearly time for the sunset.
It was great. Sacsayhuaman in Cusco cannot compare to the stones the Romans used to build this. Huge is the wordfor it. I wonder how they could move it. Coloms 40m high and even though probably 3m in diameter still looking elegant. It was outstanding! and all was redish and in perfect evening light. But unfortunately by 6pm it was dark. So we had a stroll through the city trying to find something to eat and drink. There was not too much choice and shops closed early as there were the usual power cuts. A Lebanese told us, the Lebanese people are rich but the government is poor and I think in general that is very true.
The next morning we left. We made the decision not to go to Homs and Hama in Syria but to go to Damascus. This was based on me not wanting to ride the bike to Palmyra and Carlos not wanting to transport it by bus. So back south in the Beka Valley we went again. Visiting Anjar but not stopiong in Zahle the food capital of Lebanon. IN ANjar we visited the Umayad palace and found a Chameleon.
Then up the hill we went and  crossed the Lebanese boarder with no problems. Then we had to cross at least 5km of no mans land between the two countries before we reached... no not the boarder but a huge dutyfree shopping center on the syrian side including a Dunkin' no Donughts (which was closed down).
After a coffee  crossed into Syria with no problems. By that time I was very tired we had done more than 80km and most of it was either uphill or flat (but Carlos had the pedal on the gas even on the flat nothing with gently rolling). Carlos tried to goad me with saying now it is all down hill, well it wasn't. So we decided to do a detour through the Barad valley and maybe we could camp there somewhere. That was quite something, There are really old remains there. Caves in a sandstone valley very narrow. AN old railway line going up the mountain beside the river  gorge. But we did not stop for camping and then it became really poblated again and the chance was gone. Before we knew and after a exhilarating downhill we were on the outskirts of Damascus where a friendly local onbike showed us the right entrance to the City.The only problem were the many steep uphills along the way. Then we hit Damascus  center and a sign pointing up another hill for the center and one down. SO we asked a local which way to take and he said down.... After 3km the road stopped and turned away from the center and only a one way road came up the hill from the center. This was the ugly bit. we had to ride on a narrow sidewalk with trees obtrusing our way and the sun had set and  it got dark. After 5km that way and many swearwords we hit a twoway road again and a very bussy round about.Only by that time it was pitch dark and heavy traffic was sourounding us. We were fairly lost and had problems to figure out where to go. Finally the police was able to point us in the right direction and on we went. We hit the right spot and only had to find the hotel. A friendly local tried to divert us to his hotel but the price was a little to much for us. Finally he relented and showed us where to go.We entered a ally (on foot) of the souqh and where stopped by two travellers who could not believe we travelled by bike. The anounced that the hotel is just around the corner but there was only one room left when they arrived, so we hurried along. Shortly after we found the hotel and a room for us in the AL Saada hotel. A friendly hangout.
We then went back to the Souqh and the first time in nearly a month had something with potatos to eat. It was pricy (3dollars hehehe) but tasty.

Amchit to Saida

Dear Friends. I am sorry but you will have an overload of updates.

But I will break it down in a few reports and if we are lucky I can support some photos.
Ok about 15 days  ago we left Amchit after a great fresh see fish meal at Berth, Gilbert and Cesars house.
Cesar went night fishing the day before with his tank and harpune and brought some tasty fish back. Before the lovely dinner we went to Jeita Grotto. Wow this is realy impressive. A lot of Stalagmite and Stalactites and they are huge. If you are ever in Beirut go and see it. But unfortunately we are only able to remember the site as photos are not allowed. We left our dear friends of Amchit behind unfortunately the problems with the truck was still ongoing and Cesar was still working 24h a day. I hope you guys will one day be able to enjoy live a little and visit us in Europe. Please let us know when you come a bed will be ready!

We cycled via Beirut to the South of Lebanon along the coast. It was ok traffic wise as it was  Saturday and early in the morning. Also they already started to block some roads for the Beirut Marathon (a lot of up and down if Emily wants to try something different to the London one). The coast gets sandier and unfortunatel dirtier the further south you get. Only the private beaches are being kept clean.
However it is a lovely country! We arrived in Saida reasonably late and only had a small incident at lunch when the owner of the bakery we stopped at decided to push our bikes out of the way with his car. He was very sorry (Saying no problem no prblem) and I was saying yes problem when you are a prick! But my Arabic was not allowing for it so I just gave him a dirty look.
Anyhow the bikes and racks were unharmed.
Saida is an very very interesting city. The old town full of life (no cars and no lights in the evening). The castle is nice from the outside better than the inside. And people much more arab than in other parts of Lebanon (maybe because of some palestinian influx).
We went also to the excellent Soap museum and payed a hell of a lot for the not very friendly and rather badly kept Yacub hotel. We were not pleased about this but hey that was all which was available.
The next day we took the minibus to Sur the last big town  before Israel and under UN protection. Sur is beautiful! And the sites, biggest Hippodrom (built by Hadrian, yes the same who built the wall south of Scotland), under water Egyptian Harbour, and Phenician city, were spectacular. The town itself was ok we did unfortuntely not have time to go the the Suq, the beach (sand about 3km long) or the Phenician town outside of Sur. But it was worth the visit.

Wadi Qadisha to Amshritt

HI There

I am back and writing again. Well last time I stopped in Wadi Qadisha after our nightmarish 3 days in the mountains and the 2700m high pass to pedal over (Which I am really proud off my performance).
Well we stayed 3 nights in the Tiger House recommended by Nicholas and Roland our cycling friends from Lebanon. Thanks for the tip as it led to us meeting Mari, Marco and Phillip with whom we went hiking down the Qadisha Valley. The first day there we tried to find the entry and were mislead but fed by a lot of tea and coffee by the Syrian workers on the new road. Well in the afternoon a thunderstorm brought some snoow to the heights and an early return to the hotel where we met our 3 friends and with whom we spent the evening laughing, eating and drinking Raki or Arak as it is called here. We also joined them for the next days hike down the Qadisha Valley. The beginning was a little wet and not the landscape did not live up to the expectation. But after our lunch on the single track it was spectacular, unfortunatately night caught up with us to soon and we had to get out of the Valley and back to Becharre. On the way back we stopped at somebodys garage, he was destilling Alcohol and I wanted a photo, so the 5 of us were invited and we had some more Arak. Then we left and that moment a car passed, but unfortunately it already had a wife and 2 kids plus the driver. So while we tried to igure out who will take the ride the wife in the car told her husband to take her home and to take us to Bscharre only about 30min away. So we got our ride to the hotel. Lebanese can be enchanting people, very generous. The next day it was time to leave. So we pedaled down the valley and then on towards Agfa Cave. Unfortunately it was soon uphill again and well I broke my chain and that had to be fixed..  Then after a the sunshine turning into some clouds and some more shooting all around us (In Lebanon millions of birds lose their lives every year and the hunters are lazy bastards, I do not appreciate their sport) we suddenly saw a big Cedar forrest. We stopped and were informed that there are various trail. Off course we went on on foot to explore.
If Phillipe Mary or Marco read this go back to Tandourine Cedar forrest, it is worth it!
It was spendid! The place to be! We also bought the best Apricot Jam we ever tasted in our lives (Sorry Mami it must be the extra sun the fruit gets in Lebanon).
Then we went on and on and on, it was hilly and high up and there was no Hotel or good campsite. At 4pm it is getting dark, so we asked at a house to be informed that they do not have water and they are on the way to Beirut. He sent us up into the mountains but after 500m we turned around as it was to steep and no sign of no houses and some privacy (and we are heeding the warning not to camp without permision in Lebanon) So we went on and when we asked for Water a car stopped beside us and May and her french friends stopped. She was offering us help ad trying to reach a friend of hers who unfortunately was not at her mountain home and therefore they could not solve our problems. But thank you a lot May, we appreciate your intentions. By the way we are at the coast, but well and with no further trouble, if I need something I let you know, I promise!
Well by the time we got on it was dark and we had to deal with the crazy Lebanese drivers. The area was very poblated with big weekend villas so no hiding possible and we did not want to cause a security incident. We were stuffed, but suddenly I saw some guys and I asked Carlos to aaske them if they know a place where we can out the tent, they did. They were Syrians building a house and they put us in one of the unfinished rooms, gave us dinner, candles and a lovely evening. Thank you Saabh and colleagues you were real livesafer.
The next morning we visited Barraa. A SInk hole 280m deep and with 3 natural Arches as promised by Nicholas. It was spectacular. We then decided not to go to AgfaCave but to turn back to the coast. On the way down Carlos decided that we should give our bikes a good wash which we did at the petrolstation in Tandourine. When Carlos inflated his fron tire there was a big explosion leaving me deaft. His Rim exploded from the brake war it did not withstand the preasure anymore.
Great being in the middle of the mountains! Well the mecanic took ou his phone and started asking his friends if they would have a wheel for us, and they did. An hour later we got a new fron wheel, I would not normally look at a wheel like that twice but it brought us to the coast albeit the tyre did not fit well and Carlos had a bump every turn of the wheel which spoilt the first 20km of downhill. The canyon we decended was spectacular. The coast was great. Only that we were at the wrong spot. We had to follow the coast for another 10km until the camping so highly recommended by May and others. But we did not get there, we were stopped by a pickup truck.  We met Cesar , 7 times Lebanese Cycling champion and partaker of the Moscow olympics! He gave us direction and invited us to his home that evening for dinner. But first he made sure we got to the camping safe! Bert and Gilbert (Wife and Son) were a delight to meet. we had a very nice traditional lebanese dinner and a good chat (only that I was sooo tired, please forgive me). The next morning Cesar wanted to take us to the shop in Jouniyah to get another wheel (one I would look at), unfortunately his truck was brocken and he tried to figure out a solution, so at the end we decided to spend the day at the sea, rocky beach of Amrit and to let Cesar sort out the truck. The next morning Cesar took us to the Trek shop which had a good wheel ready for us with a special very generous price reduction (Thank you Cesar you are the best) and then we went on to Beirut to the Volvo shop. Beirut was very interesting! Traffic is crazy.
In the evening Cesar went night fishing, Bert, Carlos and me sat on the rocks and waited for him to bring back the catch, and it was a good one (5kg)! Today we are going to eat it. I like Bert a lot, she has a very good calm energy! So I am very much looking forward to our dinner.
But before we have dinner Cesar took us back to Beirut early in the morning. We were in Downtown, the Museeum and Gemaizeh. We like Beirut a lot! I wish I would have an unlimited budget and I could go shopping. But to tell you the truth you would find most of the shops in the west end or on the Champ Elysee in Paris, just not as nicely done!
It is a very funny place, on one hand the buildings show the bullets from the 80 civil war on the other hand they are restoring them like crazy in a very nice style, also building ultra modern houses at the seefront. They are keeping the cars out of downtown which makes it a nice Coffee area with many places to sit, drink and eat, but then you have the tanks standing ready the military controlling every car entering the parkings with sniffer dogs etc. It must hurt to be lebanese and have a country which any moment can burn up with violence, while everybody really just tries to live.

But Beirut is enchanting.

A short status of our being:
One of the expensive Exped matress has an error and canot be used anymore, we cannot get a replacement as there is no dealer so we had to buy a cheap (bad replacement)
One Bicycle Rim exploded, replaced
One Front Rack brocken,not replace or fixable.
Carlos Furunkle healed (the bumps must have helped)
Barbaras Cycling shorts getting to big and causing skinn rush (Helped by Comped blister plaster and a week  rest)
Skin dry but very very brown (only legs and arms but we will be working on the overal body including back and belly at the end of the trip)
KM done so far 1600.

State of mind:
Carlos wants to get on the bike, Barbara is less keen on it but will be playing along as any good arab wife following her man with the head down!

En el Libano

Hola a tod@s, teneis que disculparme por no haber escrito nada ultimamente. Entramos en el Libano hace mas o menos una semana. Estuvimos pedaleando (bueno, empujando la bici) por las montanhas (ya os contare mas detalladamente). Subimos la carretera mas alta de el Libano (unos 2700 mtrs) y hicimos una parada en un valle precioso que es patrimonio de la Unesco. De ahi salimos camino de la costa. Sin embargo tuvimos un incidente con mi bici, la rueda delantera se rompio (no hubo ningun accidente por suerte) y tuvimos que comprar una rueda vieja para poder llegar a Amshit (la costa).

Llegando a Amshit tuvimos la suerte de conocer a Cesar. Cesar es un  integrante de la Federacion Libanesa de Ciclismo y fue campeon de el Libano varias veces. Ademas tambien participo en las Olimpiadas de Moscu 1980 donde acabo el 25 (nada mal la verdad). Cesar nos llevo a una tienda de bicicletas de un amigo suyo donde compramos una rueda con la que podremos finalizar nuestro viaje.

Ya os contare de toda esta aventura con mas detalle. Ahora tenemos que irnos a casa de Cesar a cenar pescado. Ayer por la noche nos fuimos de pesca (submarina) con el y pesco unos 5kg de rico pescado del Mediterraneo.

Bueno un abrazo y hasta pronto!!!

Lattakia to Amshritt in Lebanon

Dear Friends

We have left Syria for once and we are in Lebanon.
How it worked.
We left Lattakia after a few disappointing days to travel along the coast towards the famous Krak de Chevalier. The coast is very built up and litter can be seen everywhere. But it was interesting anyway we passed many military installations and saw some stinger rockets pointing towards Greece maybe. Crossed Banyias and climbed up to the Templar fortress of Marqhab. What an error, the english built the access road straight up and it was at least 35 degrees and very humid. But it was worth it specially as it was Carlos birthday and he likes hills. Then we went down to the beach, camped inbetween the litter, after a covered bath for Barbara (long sleeves and trousers) on a beach with an old oilspill all dried up by now, we were invited to have a shower at the building site and to drink some Tea with them. We declined the invitation for dinner and went back to the tent at the beach, just to be invaded by the family on the plot of land next to the building site. They brought coffee and we had a nice conversation about us drinking or not alcohol. Then we mediated between the builder and them (Builder was not liked by the locals) and had some more tea together. We finally were able to tell them that we are fine sleeping at the beach and that we are not cold at all. At about midnight we were suddenly awoken by some maritime policeguys. Carlos crawled out with our Passports and made some small talk. The Military was there too. From then on it was not a quite night anymore as the military had patrols ever hour or so and they were not to quiet (they also tried out our shoes which we put on the bikes to dry). Well anyhow happy birthday Carlos! If this is the only encounter with the security forces then we are very lucky.
The next morning we started bright and early just to be brought some more Coffe before leaving. The Syriens are the best! Suddlenly we left the Muezzins behind us and were in deepest Christian country with many Churches and Marys. We stopped at one Church and had a nice very long chat with the priest. (Who told us he has been safed by a miracle last Christmas, he also was brave enought to tell us he has been in Jerusalem)
We cycled on. In Tartus which is a very nice seaside town we found a cyclist who showed us where the next fruitjuice can be found. Then we started the long way up towards Safita. On the way in the hills we tried to get some fast food. Carlos got really anoyed because the people tried to overcharge him. Finally we had a chat and I needed some foood, any foood! So we stopped at a chicken place which charged too much but it smelled delicious. We became the laughingstock for the locals as first we complained that he did not bring us some salad and when the bill was to be paid he tried to even take more and Carlos told him off. Suddenly the other locals came to us (after laughing at us) and asked where we are from, when Carlos said spain a mobile phone was pushed into his hand with somebody in Spain asking who he is. Well it was a funny conversation as nobody on the phone new how he got to talk to the other. Well we took our leave just to be stopped at the bottom before an uphill by one of the guys from the restaurant. I was not best pleased but he literally blocked our way. We were invited which we declined but he insisted. Well we ended up sleeping there a night and to meet Haisim and Suzanne was great. Haissim took us in his car up to Safita and for a drink (our first alcoholic drink with a Muslim, in a spectacular landscape and exeptional company). He also took us to the house of some friends where there was a secret passage to the Donjon (The WHite horse of Safita), and a pair of antique bathing shoes out of ebony, bone and mother or pearl inlaid. We had a great night and they are very very special people (they also called us a couple days later to make sure we do not need anything and to let us know that they miss us, like we them).
The next morning we climbed up to Safita and on up and down and up and up to the Krak de Chevalier or the Qalat al Hosn. WHat a climb.

There we met a group of Cyclist from the university of Lausanne (CH), Syrien and Lebanon. But they did not cycle with luggage they had there transport vehicle and ambulance with them. We stayed 2 nights at the Krak, and also visited Marmarita (not worth it) and St George monastery (very worth it).
Then it was time to say good bye to Syria for a while.
All down hill into Lebanon. It was an very straight forward boarder crossing. Then the uphill started and off course Carlos wanted as a birthday gift the difficulte route to the Wadi Qadisha. So we had to cross the highest point at 2700m.
Well not on the first day in Lebanon.
By lunchtime the other cyclists catched up with us and Nicholas and Roland the two lebanese introduced us to their friend Avo and his friend which are keen mountainbikers. They told us to take this other rout which was not marked on the map. I asked how long it is and they said 7h to the Wadi. I said this will be at least 3 days with our heavy bikes and he said no way it is a good route. I tried to get him to show me on the map but he could not make it out. I should have then realised this is not a good idea but...
Well that evening we camped in Shamtuq after riding up the mountain quite well.The next morning we follwed the Lebanese mountain route even though everybody said it is not good for bikes and it was fairly soon not paved and getting rought. Well it was at least  very beautiful. But shit it was bad for the bikes and Carlos moral. We had no idea where we really where and it was very remote. Each time we found a truck driver (big limestone quarrys everywhere but nothing else) he said godown to to Hermil which was the wrong side of the Valley) Well the first night we camped in a place called Marhin or something like this. We found a guy who spoke some french and who was planting apple trees. He offered us to camp beside the little beautiful lake and to reconsider if it would not be better to go down to Hermil as the road ahead was very steep and bumpy. He also brought us dinner. Thank you Mr Alauwi.
The next morning we decided to press ahead. It was 4km steep uphill we needed to leave one bike and to push the other together, riding was impossible. After that we had a nice downhill on a paved road (going to Hermil) then we were on a dirt track again and after 1km we were unable to ride on the flat as it was so bumpy. We stopped swearing and talking a long time ago otherwise I think it would have been the day of the foul language. We met a local and he told us that they came from the hunt and that we are crazy. But the good news was that it was only about 11 km to go (or so we understood) but yes the road is not in a good condition for some of it. He said it will take us about 3h which we did not believe. Well we should have we walked and walked and it was not all of it uphill. The road is now classified as Belgian. It was like cobbles only that every second was amiss. When we came to the bend in the road we suddenly heard a lot of shooting going on and the guys from last night told us before leaving not to stay in Orgush as the people are no good. We were a little worried as we found that it was impossible to have hunting rifles which can shoot so many shots or that the hunting party would be so big as it was a high desert area. Well we kept going on carefully turning the bend.... and there they were with the big Humvees H3, the Jeeps and the Range Rovers. With beautifully carved Berretta guns and camping chairs and 100 of boxes and 1000 of shells of amunition lying around. The Christians in Lebanon like to hunt small birds they kill them on the migration routes and they kill and kill and kill. 300 birds per day and person and this is only the ones they bother to collect. It is oustanding ahh and illegal even in teh Lebanon. But the military and police turn a blind eye that's for sure. IT was  experience to see those really expensive toys (cars, guns clothes)in the middle of know where in a supposedly poor country (St Moritz in Winter has the same collection of cars). Well they did not offer us a ride but water! WE walked on and keept pushing. FInally at 3pm we reached the paved rode leading over the pass to the Wadi Qadisha. And it was a hard climb. I made it nearly to the top by myself but at then I got some help by Carlos pushing.. The downhill was great but the Cedar Trees of Qadisha where sad.
ANyhow I will be writing more about Qadisha and our friends Phillipe, Mari and Marco and our hike in a few days. Now it is time to go to bed!

By the way how do you know you are in Lebanon?
If a Mercedes is scratching your bike!