Lattakia to Amshritt in Lebanon

Dear Friends

We have left Syria for once and we are in Lebanon.
How it worked.
We left Lattakia after a few disappointing days to travel along the coast towards the famous Krak de Chevalier. The coast is very built up and litter can be seen everywhere. But it was interesting anyway we passed many military installations and saw some stinger rockets pointing towards Greece maybe. Crossed Banyias and climbed up to the Templar fortress of Marqhab. What an error, the english built the access road straight up and it was at least 35 degrees and very humid. But it was worth it specially as it was Carlos birthday and he likes hills. Then we went down to the beach, camped inbetween the litter, after a covered bath for Barbara (long sleeves and trousers) on a beach with an old oilspill all dried up by now, we were invited to have a shower at the building site and to drink some Tea with them. We declined the invitation for dinner and went back to the tent at the beach, just to be invaded by the family on the plot of land next to the building site. They brought coffee and we had a nice conversation about us drinking or not alcohol. Then we mediated between the builder and them (Builder was not liked by the locals) and had some more tea together. We finally were able to tell them that we are fine sleeping at the beach and that we are not cold at all. At about midnight we were suddenly awoken by some maritime policeguys. Carlos crawled out with our Passports and made some small talk. The Military was there too. From then on it was not a quite night anymore as the military had patrols ever hour or so and they were not to quiet (they also tried out our shoes which we put on the bikes to dry). Well anyhow happy birthday Carlos! If this is the only encounter with the security forces then we are very lucky.
The next morning we started bright and early just to be brought some more Coffe before leaving. The Syriens are the best! Suddlenly we left the Muezzins behind us and were in deepest Christian country with many Churches and Marys. We stopped at one Church and had a nice very long chat with the priest. (Who told us he has been safed by a miracle last Christmas, he also was brave enought to tell us he has been in Jerusalem)
We cycled on. In Tartus which is a very nice seaside town we found a cyclist who showed us where the next fruitjuice can be found. Then we started the long way up towards Safita. On the way in the hills we tried to get some fast food. Carlos got really anoyed because the people tried to overcharge him. Finally we had a chat and I needed some foood, any foood! So we stopped at a chicken place which charged too much but it smelled delicious. We became the laughingstock for the locals as first we complained that he did not bring us some salad and when the bill was to be paid he tried to even take more and Carlos told him off. Suddenly the other locals came to us (after laughing at us) and asked where we are from, when Carlos said spain a mobile phone was pushed into his hand with somebody in Spain asking who he is. Well it was a funny conversation as nobody on the phone new how he got to talk to the other. Well we took our leave just to be stopped at the bottom before an uphill by one of the guys from the restaurant. I was not best pleased but he literally blocked our way. We were invited which we declined but he insisted. Well we ended up sleeping there a night and to meet Haisim and Suzanne was great. Haissim took us in his car up to Safita and for a drink (our first alcoholic drink with a Muslim, in a spectacular landscape and exeptional company). He also took us to the house of some friends where there was a secret passage to the Donjon (The WHite horse of Safita), and a pair of antique bathing shoes out of ebony, bone and mother or pearl inlaid. We had a great night and they are very very special people (they also called us a couple days later to make sure we do not need anything and to let us know that they miss us, like we them).
The next morning we climbed up to Safita and on up and down and up and up to the Krak de Chevalier or the Qalat al Hosn. WHat a climb.

There we met a group of Cyclist from the university of Lausanne (CH), Syrien and Lebanon. But they did not cycle with luggage they had there transport vehicle and ambulance with them. We stayed 2 nights at the Krak, and also visited Marmarita (not worth it) and St George monastery (very worth it).
Then it was time to say good bye to Syria for a while.
All down hill into Lebanon. It was an very straight forward boarder crossing. Then the uphill started and off course Carlos wanted as a birthday gift the difficulte route to the Wadi Qadisha. So we had to cross the highest point at 2700m.
Well not on the first day in Lebanon.
By lunchtime the other cyclists catched up with us and Nicholas and Roland the two lebanese introduced us to their friend Avo and his friend which are keen mountainbikers. They told us to take this other rout which was not marked on the map. I asked how long it is and they said 7h to the Wadi. I said this will be at least 3 days with our heavy bikes and he said no way it is a good route. I tried to get him to show me on the map but he could not make it out. I should have then realised this is not a good idea but...
Well that evening we camped in Shamtuq after riding up the mountain quite well.The next morning we follwed the Lebanese mountain route even though everybody said it is not good for bikes and it was fairly soon not paved and getting rought. Well it was at least  very beautiful. But shit it was bad for the bikes and Carlos moral. We had no idea where we really where and it was very remote. Each time we found a truck driver (big limestone quarrys everywhere but nothing else) he said godown to to Hermil which was the wrong side of the Valley) Well the first night we camped in a place called Marhin or something like this. We found a guy who spoke some french and who was planting apple trees. He offered us to camp beside the little beautiful lake and to reconsider if it would not be better to go down to Hermil as the road ahead was very steep and bumpy. He also brought us dinner. Thank you Mr Alauwi.
The next morning we decided to press ahead. It was 4km steep uphill we needed to leave one bike and to push the other together, riding was impossible. After that we had a nice downhill on a paved road (going to Hermil) then we were on a dirt track again and after 1km we were unable to ride on the flat as it was so bumpy. We stopped swearing and talking a long time ago otherwise I think it would have been the day of the foul language. We met a local and he told us that they came from the hunt and that we are crazy. But the good news was that it was only about 11 km to go (or so we understood) but yes the road is not in a good condition for some of it. He said it will take us about 3h which we did not believe. Well we should have we walked and walked and it was not all of it uphill. The road is now classified as Belgian. It was like cobbles only that every second was amiss. When we came to the bend in the road we suddenly heard a lot of shooting going on and the guys from last night told us before leaving not to stay in Orgush as the people are no good. We were a little worried as we found that it was impossible to have hunting rifles which can shoot so many shots or that the hunting party would be so big as it was a high desert area. Well we kept going on carefully turning the bend.... and there they were with the big Humvees H3, the Jeeps and the Range Rovers. With beautifully carved Berretta guns and camping chairs and 100 of boxes and 1000 of shells of amunition lying around. The Christians in Lebanon like to hunt small birds they kill them on the migration routes and they kill and kill and kill. 300 birds per day and person and this is only the ones they bother to collect. It is oustanding ahh and illegal even in teh Lebanon. But the military and police turn a blind eye that's for sure. IT was  experience to see those really expensive toys (cars, guns clothes)in the middle of know where in a supposedly poor country (St Moritz in Winter has the same collection of cars). Well they did not offer us a ride but water! WE walked on and keept pushing. FInally at 3pm we reached the paved rode leading over the pass to the Wadi Qadisha. And it was a hard climb. I made it nearly to the top by myself but at then I got some help by Carlos pushing.. The downhill was great but the Cedar Trees of Qadisha where sad.
ANyhow I will be writing more about Qadisha and our friends Phillipe, Mari and Marco and our hike in a few days. Now it is time to go to bed!

By the way how do you know you are in Lebanon?
If a Mercedes is scratching your bike!