THe Next morning we left cycling along the Dead sea. THe flys got less the villages even more so and we stopped along the way to visit the Wadi Guweihra. WE walked up the canyon which had many locals enjoying their Friday in this stunning canyon. On the way down we were invited to eat. One of the groups was females andkids only. THey were delighted by Felix andcould not understand why Carlos and me have none. Well one of the ladys is a nurse and she told me that Carlos needs to eat honey, that will give us kids....
Then further down Felix got some bisquits from another family, when we finally reached our bikes (which we left standing under a tree somewhere) we found them surrounded by Jordanians hving a picknic. Carlos was eing called away by some guys I was being offered some food by another family. We got so much to eat, wild bird freshly shot, chicken cooked in the earth oven, etc. IT was really dificult to pleaseeverybody and we got stuck. THe other three got impatient and were finally able t ease us away (thank you otherwise we would still be there eating and all the kilos lost would be on again). We went on cycling and the plan was to camp a little up the hill out of the valley as we planned to cycle up to the plateau towards Petra. Well we did barely make it. Night was falling when Carlos spotted a descent camping spot beside ome fields.
The next day started late and it was hot and windy. ANd we made 1600 altitude meteres. Carlos was for once not pushin me uphill but helping Konrad to push the chariot with Felix up the very steep hills.
It was tough. WHen we were more or less at the top we passed this tiny village and some kids and a women stopped us with a bike asking if we are able to pump the bicycle. We did so (it was not punctured), we then had lunch andgot some homemade bread, tea and olives for our efford. Then we went on. And for once just before sunset we found a camsite. Actually we slept in the first floor ofa newbuilt house after asking the owne if we could camp on his land. IT was strange as we were not able to cook really and we did not get invited for dinner neither offered the use of the Hammam (SHower) BUt they were really friendly.
WE came to our 3rd day cycling together with Kirstín, Konrad and Felix which we really enjoyed. However I had a ter´rible day. I felt really bad and had bad diareah too. ANyhow head down and through I had to go but I wasrather unhappy. At lunch we arrived in SHowback where I wanted to see the castle. The Germans decided they will pedal on. Showback was great but steep uphill and very hot. I wished we would have stayed there a day but Petra was looming large.
So we pedaled on and we reached Petra where we agreed with the Germans to meet at a hotel but we found them in a really beautiful spot overlooking Petra.
THe next morning we went to see Petra the five of us. Well even though it is incredible expensive Petra is worth the money but please go for 2 days otherwise you have no time to explore. We spent a daywith Felix which walked up the huge mountain over big steps and did not complain once. Carlos, Konrad and me then tried to find a route over the top to see the treasury but we got badly lost and it took us forever. But we found it in the end. WHen walking down into the canyon we were told off by the guard as it was suposedly to dagerous without a guide.
THe next day we were on our own again as the Germans went of to Wadi RUm as they are on a tighter schedule than we. WE went back to Petra and walked up to the monastery where we bumped into a group of elderly americans. WE walked back down together and wereasked f we would like to meet up later for drinks at their hotel.
In the evening we took the taxi to their hotel. It was funny as it was the second most expensive taxi ride of the trip (apart from the airport to hotel in Turkey). THe hotel was high above the city, very nice and very empty. I got invited to some wiskeý and we hada really interesting conversation.
From Petra we cycled towards Wadi Rum the famous Lawrence of Arabia country. We thought we would make the whole in one day but the wind was so bad!!!!!
We camped in the desert just 15km from the Wadi in the Desert. WE had the best dinner and the most beautiful night. The next morning we went the last 20km to RUm and sorted out our Jeep tour through the Wadi and a night in a Beduin tent. That was an adventure in itself but the tour was great! Well the scenery is.
NOw guys I will not tell you much more as my fingers ache.
JUst one thing Wadi Rum to Aqaba at the Red Sea was the most exhilerating downhill ride ever and the Red sea is cold but great!
Good bye next time we will write from Israel
Saturday, 4 December 2010
Amman to Aqaba
Dear All
We are very sorry but in Jordan it is very seldom we are stumble over an internet. MAybe because we are staying in the bushes to avoid the high hotel costs.
After our not so nice experience in the Jordan Valley we climbed out of it and went to a place calledJerash. THis is a all ROman City and Jesus visited it too. So on the way there we thought we will visit the National parque in Ajloun. Well we found a hill with beautiful oak trees and decided to make photos. Then we went on along the road when suddenly this black car pulled up beside us. I was annoyed as he did not let me weave up the steep hill so I waved it on and it pulled up beside Carlos. There he rolled down his window and told Carlos he would like to have a look at thephtos we took further down. Carlos asked f he has to stop right there but it was ok fór the guy that we finish up he hill. He pulled off and went ahead (we did not delete the photos we took as we tought them innocent). Well we showed him the photos and he was not really interested in our tree pictures with Israel in the background. He was wondering if we took pictures of the ROyal Palace which was on the hill ide which we ignored completely.
Anywaz that day we went on and on over rolling hills until the final push up a 33% inclination which I was unable to ride up to a beautiful campspot.
The next day we went to Jerash to see the smallest hippodrome and Hadrians Arch. We also went to see the the Gladiator fight and the Chariot Race in the ruins it was great great ´fun however Carlos did not agree as he found the entrance to expensive and the show only slightly amuseing. After Jerash we went through the back roads to Amman. We wanted to take a tour to the Desert Castles in the Eas of Amman bt unfortunately we tried for 2 days and it was impossible. In Amman the old city is ok but not great after Aleppo and Damascus nd even Beirut. But on the second afternoon I wanted to see something a little more like home so we asked for ride to one of the cities parks from where my plan was to walk to the modern shopping area. We asked a lady if from here a bus would go to the park and she offered us a ride in her taxi as the park is a littl ahead ofher place. IN the taxi she payed the driver and a huge argument broke out. She is a Iraqi lady who lived in Syria for long time and had her kids in Canada. So her Arabe and english was excellent. Well anyhow when she got out she told us to get out with her too. The driver kept having a go at her and she at him. SHe told us once out that he wanted to charge her US20 instead of US 2dollars for the ride as we are tourist and we are rich and that she was really upset about that. Anyhow she got us another cab and paid for it. Gosh she was upset. The cabby kept on going and going and going. We saw the signs of the AIrport and the houses were disappearing. At the end he stopped in front of the King ABdullah park (but we wanted the King Hussein park) I was not so bothered as there was a great shopping center on the other side so I knew we can get a ride back. Well as nightfall wasclose we decided we will go to the shopping center. There we got some toothpaste in the Carrefour, dinner in the MacDonalds and desert in the Pauls. Ahh and most important a ne book in´the Virgin Media store. Luckily the taxi back was easy and the price ok, but hey what a way to spend your time in Amman.
Then we decided to go on and we went south after 50km we hit Madaba and went to see St Georges churc and the 2ad mosaic depicting a map of the middle east. Unfortunately most of it s lost. From there we went to Mount Nebo from where Moses saw the promised land for the first time after his 40year long stroll through the desert. Apart from the picture of POpe Paul 2 there was not much to see as there was a lot of haze or polution in the Jordan Valley. But I got stung by a waspe as a memory. Then we circled back to Madaba once more to take another Road down to the dead sea. We wanted to go to some Hot SPrings and I tell you the downhill was exhillerating. However the drop down to the Spring was break-breaking. THeSping was hot and nice but it did cost us 16 Jordanians. A lot of money as it is one to one with the Euro. And we off course were caught out by the night and we had a climb up the hill or about 4 or 5km with a 33% gradient. I was not looking forward to it as you can imagine. Carlos sucked up to some local business men having a soak and they agreed to take our luggage to the top of the hill. Well I was riding up the hill like I was flying but it was so dark and a little eerie and Carlos was not with me at the beginning as he had to oversee the loadingof the luggage. Well when I was at the top we waited and waited and I asked Carlos do you have their names, are you sure they are coming this way? DO you have the Passports with you. We had nothin no money, no Passports no names no car registration number of those guys. Anyhow the guys came, unloaded our gear and we were off to find a campsite. Carlos luckily spotted something before going down to the spring. IT was a great campsite the sunrise was stunning and then we rode another 20km downhill again into the Jorda Valley to hit the Dead Sea. When arriving on the bottom of the world minus 400m below sea level we were imediately covered in flys. Nonetheless we stopped for a coffee. We had a FataMorgana suddenly 2 cyclist appeared. They were real. PLease make the aquaintance of Kirstin, Konrad and Felix their 2.5 year old son. We had a tea together they stayed on and we went on to Mujib national park. WHere we went up the river doing some canyoning. WHen we came back the three germans were there. They were not allowed to do the hikeup the river because of their youg son. We then tried to get down to the beach of the dead sea to have a dip but were turned away by the administrator of the NAtional Park Guest house. is argument was that this was a private property and wewould have to pay for access. Well we turned around and left. A litle further down the road we found area where we could get in and we carried 16liters of fresh water to rinse off. It was great floating in the sea, surreal ýou have to try it one day.
THe 5 of us cycled on. Nightfall started but we were in an area where the land was privately owned by some Jordanian petrol company. We found somewhere we were thinking suitable and asked some people at a rest point if we could camp there. THey said they will be talking to the military patrol and it should not be a problem. Well we pitched the tent. Anhour later the military jeep stopped beside us and told s we have to pack the capitain is not allowing our stay. We had to depitch. It was a pain as it was darkest night by now. He told us we have to go at least 5km more to the next town. It was no fun and Felix the kid was not happy and he was not alone. Well we arrived in the town and it was not a good feeling, a lot of teenagers loitering. THen we passed a sports complex and there were a couple of men standing around. SO Carlos went up to them and asked if they would know a place where we could camp. ONe of the men was the caretaker of the sportscomplex and allowed us to camp insinde, with toilets, water, tea and electricity all at hand. IT was great.
We are very sorry but in Jordan it is very seldom we are stumble over an internet. MAybe because we are staying in the bushes to avoid the high hotel costs.
After our not so nice experience in the Jordan Valley we climbed out of it and went to a place calledJerash. THis is a all ROman City and Jesus visited it too. So on the way there we thought we will visit the National parque in Ajloun. Well we found a hill with beautiful oak trees and decided to make photos. Then we went on along the road when suddenly this black car pulled up beside us. I was annoyed as he did not let me weave up the steep hill so I waved it on and it pulled up beside Carlos. There he rolled down his window and told Carlos he would like to have a look at thephtos we took further down. Carlos asked f he has to stop right there but it was ok fór the guy that we finish up he hill. He pulled off and went ahead (we did not delete the photos we took as we tought them innocent). Well we showed him the photos and he was not really interested in our tree pictures with Israel in the background. He was wondering if we took pictures of the ROyal Palace which was on the hill ide which we ignored completely.
Anywaz that day we went on and on over rolling hills until the final push up a 33% inclination which I was unable to ride up to a beautiful campspot.
The next day we went to Jerash to see the smallest hippodrome and Hadrians Arch. We also went to see the the Gladiator fight and the Chariot Race in the ruins it was great great ´fun however Carlos did not agree as he found the entrance to expensive and the show only slightly amuseing. After Jerash we went through the back roads to Amman. We wanted to take a tour to the Desert Castles in the Eas of Amman bt unfortunately we tried for 2 days and it was impossible. In Amman the old city is ok but not great after Aleppo and Damascus nd even Beirut. But on the second afternoon I wanted to see something a little more like home so we asked for ride to one of the cities parks from where my plan was to walk to the modern shopping area. We asked a lady if from here a bus would go to the park and she offered us a ride in her taxi as the park is a littl ahead ofher place. IN the taxi she payed the driver and a huge argument broke out. She is a Iraqi lady who lived in Syria for long time and had her kids in Canada. So her Arabe and english was excellent. Well anyhow when she got out she told us to get out with her too. The driver kept having a go at her and she at him. SHe told us once out that he wanted to charge her US20 instead of US 2dollars for the ride as we are tourist and we are rich and that she was really upset about that. Anyhow she got us another cab and paid for it. Gosh she was upset. The cabby kept on going and going and going. We saw the signs of the AIrport and the houses were disappearing. At the end he stopped in front of the King ABdullah park (but we wanted the King Hussein park) I was not so bothered as there was a great shopping center on the other side so I knew we can get a ride back. Well as nightfall wasclose we decided we will go to the shopping center. There we got some toothpaste in the Carrefour, dinner in the MacDonalds and desert in the Pauls. Ahh and most important a ne book in´the Virgin Media store. Luckily the taxi back was easy and the price ok, but hey what a way to spend your time in Amman.
Then we decided to go on and we went south after 50km we hit Madaba and went to see St Georges churc and the 2ad mosaic depicting a map of the middle east. Unfortunately most of it s lost. From there we went to Mount Nebo from where Moses saw the promised land for the first time after his 40year long stroll through the desert. Apart from the picture of POpe Paul 2 there was not much to see as there was a lot of haze or polution in the Jordan Valley. But I got stung by a waspe as a memory. Then we circled back to Madaba once more to take another Road down to the dead sea. We wanted to go to some Hot SPrings and I tell you the downhill was exhillerating. However the drop down to the Spring was break-breaking. THeSping was hot and nice but it did cost us 16 Jordanians. A lot of money as it is one to one with the Euro. And we off course were caught out by the night and we had a climb up the hill or about 4 or 5km with a 33% gradient. I was not looking forward to it as you can imagine. Carlos sucked up to some local business men having a soak and they agreed to take our luggage to the top of the hill. Well I was riding up the hill like I was flying but it was so dark and a little eerie and Carlos was not with me at the beginning as he had to oversee the loadingof the luggage. Well when I was at the top we waited and waited and I asked Carlos do you have their names, are you sure they are coming this way? DO you have the Passports with you. We had nothin no money, no Passports no names no car registration number of those guys. Anyhow the guys came, unloaded our gear and we were off to find a campsite. Carlos luckily spotted something before going down to the spring. IT was a great campsite the sunrise was stunning and then we rode another 20km downhill again into the Jorda Valley to hit the Dead Sea. When arriving on the bottom of the world minus 400m below sea level we were imediately covered in flys. Nonetheless we stopped for a coffee. We had a FataMorgana suddenly 2 cyclist appeared. They were real. PLease make the aquaintance of Kirstin, Konrad and Felix their 2.5 year old son. We had a tea together they stayed on and we went on to Mujib national park. WHere we went up the river doing some canyoning. WHen we came back the three germans were there. They were not allowed to do the hikeup the river because of their youg son. We then tried to get down to the beach of the dead sea to have a dip but were turned away by the administrator of the NAtional Park Guest house. is argument was that this was a private property and wewould have to pay for access. Well we turned around and left. A litle further down the road we found area where we could get in and we carried 16liters of fresh water to rinse off. It was great floating in the sea, surreal ýou have to try it one day.
THe 5 of us cycled on. Nightfall started but we were in an area where the land was privately owned by some Jordanian petrol company. We found somewhere we were thinking suitable and asked some people at a rest point if we could camp there. THey said they will be talking to the military patrol and it should not be a problem. Well we pitched the tent. Anhour later the military jeep stopped beside us and told s we have to pack the capitain is not allowing our stay. We had to depitch. It was a pain as it was darkest night by now. He told us we have to go at least 5km more to the next town. It was no fun and Felix the kid was not happy and he was not alone. Well we arrived in the town and it was not a good feeling, a lot of teenagers loitering. THen we passed a sports complex and there were a couple of men standing around. SO Carlos went up to them and asked if they would know a place where we could camp. ONe of the men was the caretaker of the sportscomplex and allowed us to camp insinde, with toilets, water, tea and electricity all at hand. IT was great.
Monday, 22 November 2010
Jordan Irbid to Amman
From Irbid we wanted to travel to Umm Quais from where you have stunning views of the sea of Galilea. We decided to take the side road. Well Rolf thank you for the warning, these hills are steep and the english built all the roads on them. Straigh up is the only way that worked for them!\
Carlos says when you have to push the bike you should not be there. Well I should not have been there!
Umm Quais has a nice Amphiteather and Colonaded street but the highlight was the mausoleum. It is supposedly already mentioned in the Bible (Matt 8,28I think) as the place where Jesus met some possed people living on a graveyard and he healed them by moving the devil to a herd of pigs who jumped over the cliff into the sea od Galilea and drowned. Well read it yourself yeah.
From Umm Quais we dropped into the Jordan Valley on the way to another Roman site Pella. The Valley is very green and as Jordan is the only neighbouring country which offically accepts Israel they have an open boarder and no further animosities. Jordans population consists of 60% palestinians. Traffic on the road was moderate due to it being Friday. But that also ment the kids were out. I have never experienced something like this and it was a shock. There were these two young teenagers,one on the right side of the road trying to stop me, stick in hand and arms waving. Carlos was in the meantime shouting his hello to the other guy on the other side. I though hmmm I should make sure I give him a wide berth but I could not go further into the road due to the oncoming traffic. I was not sure if he will try to grab me or put the stick into my wheel to stop me. When I passed him he jumped forward trying to hold on to my legg (the upper part) I was really shocked because he was far to young to behave in this strange sexiest way. Well I had a go at him but of course he escaped. I still thought it to be a isolated incident, stressful not so more as being touched by him but because they do not consider how dangerous it is for you on a loaded bike and because it is such a no do in this culture and they would not even shake hands with one of there woman.
Later on we hit the village and there were hords of kids. They were really aggressive and disrespectful. We fled into a falafel shop and they did not even leave us alone when the owner sent them way. It was horrible. When we took off they were running behind us holding on to the bikes etc. Many adults were trying to make them stop but it was in vain. We then had to cycle really steeply uphill and the kids were just incredible. One of the adult sheeperds shouted at them and acctualy started to through stones at them. I was greatfull for his assistance and I promise I never cycled that fast uphill! But it destroyed to positive image we had of Jordan in a stones throw. We wanted to leave as fast as possible. That night we were allowed to camp on a parking space close to Pella. But we did not visit the site neither that evening nor the next morning. We were on thr run because of some misguided, frustrated and angry children which have no idea but see things which they do not understand and the images are not being rectified by their parents.
Well lets hope it gets better in Jordan otherwise we will be spendind our remaining times in Israel.
Carlos says when you have to push the bike you should not be there. Well I should not have been there!
Umm Quais has a nice Amphiteather and Colonaded street but the highlight was the mausoleum. It is supposedly already mentioned in the Bible (Matt 8,28I think) as the place where Jesus met some possed people living on a graveyard and he healed them by moving the devil to a herd of pigs who jumped over the cliff into the sea od Galilea and drowned. Well read it yourself yeah.
From Umm Quais we dropped into the Jordan Valley on the way to another Roman site Pella. The Valley is very green and as Jordan is the only neighbouring country which offically accepts Israel they have an open boarder and no further animosities. Jordans population consists of 60% palestinians. Traffic on the road was moderate due to it being Friday. But that also ment the kids were out. I have never experienced something like this and it was a shock. There were these two young teenagers,one on the right side of the road trying to stop me, stick in hand and arms waving. Carlos was in the meantime shouting his hello to the other guy on the other side. I though hmmm I should make sure I give him a wide berth but I could not go further into the road due to the oncoming traffic. I was not sure if he will try to grab me or put the stick into my wheel to stop me. When I passed him he jumped forward trying to hold on to my legg (the upper part) I was really shocked because he was far to young to behave in this strange sexiest way. Well I had a go at him but of course he escaped. I still thought it to be a isolated incident, stressful not so more as being touched by him but because they do not consider how dangerous it is for you on a loaded bike and because it is such a no do in this culture and they would not even shake hands with one of there woman.
Later on we hit the village and there were hords of kids. They were really aggressive and disrespectful. We fled into a falafel shop and they did not even leave us alone when the owner sent them way. It was horrible. When we took off they were running behind us holding on to the bikes etc. Many adults were trying to make them stop but it was in vain. We then had to cycle really steeply uphill and the kids were just incredible. One of the adult sheeperds shouted at them and acctualy started to through stones at them. I was greatfull for his assistance and I promise I never cycled that fast uphill! But it destroyed to positive image we had of Jordan in a stones throw. We wanted to leave as fast as possible. That night we were allowed to camp on a parking space close to Pella. But we did not visit the site neither that evening nor the next morning. We were on thr run because of some misguided, frustrated and angry children which have no idea but see things which they do not understand and the images are not being rectified by their parents.
Well lets hope it gets better in Jordan otherwise we will be spendind our remaining times in Israel.
De Saida a Damascos
De Saida nos dirigimos hacia el sur de las montanhas de el Libano. Barbara no estaba muy contenta de tener que encontrarse de nuevo con las subidas pero confiaba que mereciese la pena el parque natural que ibamos a visitar (Reserva Natural de Cedros de Chouf). Este parque natural es el mas grande de el Libano y tiene arboles de hasta 4000 anhos. Llegamos a Chouf despues de unas 5 horas y media de duras subidas. La ruta por suerte no solo nos deparo subida sino tambien unos hermosos pueblos y el hotel mas caro de todo el Libano. En Chouf nos alojamos en un bonito hotel/hostal que es rejentado por las autoridades del parque.
Tuvimos la suerte de que Barbara fue a preguntar a la oficina del parque acerca de las rutas de senderismo. Alli conocio a Massimo, un profesor de Agricultura Italiano que estaba trabajando en la creacion de mapas GPS de la zona. Massimo nos creo un mapa de la ruta y nos dejo un GPS para que todo fuese mas facil. Al dia siguiente Barbara (la novia de Massimo) nos llevo en coche a el comienzo de la ruta. La caminata fue genial. Caminamos por unas 5 h (Carlos 6h porque bajo hasta el pueblo caminando) y pudimos observar unos de los cedros mas viejos (unos 4000 anhos). Esa noche cenamos en companhia de Massimo y Barbara y nos acabamos una botella de vino de la zona (Adriano tu vino esta mucho mejor).
Al dia siguiente seguimos camino de Balbeek en el famoso valle de Beka, sin embargo aun teniamos una dura subida de 10km en frente de nosostros. El valle estaba lleno de vinhedos y paramos en una bodega donde compramos otra botella de vino. El valle tambien tenia muchisimas plantaciones de arboles frutales. Tuvimos la suerte de que nos invitaran a almorzar. Precisamente fue un libanes que trabajaba en Suiza y como Barbara es Suiza se hicieron amigos rapidamente (buen rollito ehh!!). Llegamos a Balbeek y despues de dejar las cosas en le hotel nos dirijimos al hotel. Era tarde pero preguntamos en la entrada si podriamos usar las entradas al dia siguiente. En taquilla nos dijeron que si por lo que compramos las entradas. Despues de ver las impresionantes ruinas tuvimos la suerte de ser testigos de unos de las mas impresionantes puestas de sol de todo nuestro viaje. Tuvimos que salir porque cerraban y en la puerta el senhor que recogia las entradas nos dijo que no podiamos usar la entrada al dia siguiente. Nos sentimos bastante defraudados ya que hubiesemos esperado al dia siguiente. A pesar de todo ello tuvimos la suerte de contemplar una bella puesta de sol.
Al dia siguiente nos dirigimos a Damascos pero antes hicimos una parada para ver las ruinas de Anjar. Las ruinas estuvieron bien pero lo mejor (para Carlos) fue que pudimos ver un camaleon en su habitat natural. En Anjar cruzamos la frontera hacia Siria dejando atras el maravilloso valle de Beka. Despues de unos 5km de subida cruzamos a Siria y de alli nos esperaban unos 40 km mayormente de bajada.
Tuvimos la suerte de que Barbara fue a preguntar a la oficina del parque acerca de las rutas de senderismo. Alli conocio a Massimo, un profesor de Agricultura Italiano que estaba trabajando en la creacion de mapas GPS de la zona. Massimo nos creo un mapa de la ruta y nos dejo un GPS para que todo fuese mas facil. Al dia siguiente Barbara (la novia de Massimo) nos llevo en coche a el comienzo de la ruta. La caminata fue genial. Caminamos por unas 5 h (Carlos 6h porque bajo hasta el pueblo caminando) y pudimos observar unos de los cedros mas viejos (unos 4000 anhos). Esa noche cenamos en companhia de Massimo y Barbara y nos acabamos una botella de vino de la zona (Adriano tu vino esta mucho mejor).
Al dia siguiente seguimos camino de Balbeek en el famoso valle de Beka, sin embargo aun teniamos una dura subida de 10km en frente de nosostros. El valle estaba lleno de vinhedos y paramos en una bodega donde compramos otra botella de vino. El valle tambien tenia muchisimas plantaciones de arboles frutales. Tuvimos la suerte de que nos invitaran a almorzar. Precisamente fue un libanes que trabajaba en Suiza y como Barbara es Suiza se hicieron amigos rapidamente (buen rollito ehh!!). Llegamos a Balbeek y despues de dejar las cosas en le hotel nos dirijimos al hotel. Era tarde pero preguntamos en la entrada si podriamos usar las entradas al dia siguiente. En taquilla nos dijeron que si por lo que compramos las entradas. Despues de ver las impresionantes ruinas tuvimos la suerte de ser testigos de unos de las mas impresionantes puestas de sol de todo nuestro viaje. Tuvimos que salir porque cerraban y en la puerta el senhor que recogia las entradas nos dijo que no podiamos usar la entrada al dia siguiente. Nos sentimos bastante defraudados ya que hubiesemos esperado al dia siguiente. A pesar de todo ello tuvimos la suerte de contemplar una bella puesta de sol.
Al dia siguiente nos dirigimos a Damascos pero antes hicimos una parada para ver las ruinas de Anjar. Las ruinas estuvieron bien pero lo mejor (para Carlos) fue que pudimos ver un camaleon en su habitat natural. En Anjar cruzamos la frontera hacia Siria dejando atras el maravilloso valle de Beka. Despues de unos 5km de subida cruzamos a Siria y de alli nos esperaban unos 40 km mayormente de bajada.
Damascus, Hama and Palmyra, Bosra
We stayed in Damascus for 3 nights. The first day we visited the famous Umayyad mosque. Yes that is quite something. ALso the Souqh is worth visiting (if you want to buy things that is). We walked a lot but not with clear aims. Then at night we got into the main shopping street had a bite to eat and got lost. We ended up at a huge cemetery and turned down a road alongside it. There was a group of youngsters having happy slapping going on. They ignored us but one walked away from the group with a pistol in hand. I hope the victim is all right. I did not want to get involved and just a few hundred yards away was some security personal just ignoring the situation too soo nothing to look back too.THis was the first and only time so far that I felt I was in a place I should not be and we really get into places where no tourists go normally.
We came out at the Souqh and walked through it and again we were welcomed even though we were out of place in the Souqh at 10pm with most of the shops closing and no tourist crafts open. The next day we visited the national museum, the old trainstation and more suqh. Then it was time for us to catch the bus to Hama. The bikes stayed in Damascus so did most of our luggage. We were warned that it is the small EID celebrations and that taking buses will be complicated as everybody is travelling at that time of the year. But we were able to get to Hama all right.We imediatelybought tickets for the next morning to get to Palmyra or Tadmor as the syrians call it. Hama was both great and a disapointment. The oldest waterwheels are there, along the mighty Orontes river which we encountered pressed into a small chanel about 4 weeks earlier in the funny AL Ghab valley (one side very conservative the other side of the Valley very liberal if you remember) and of course in the Beka Valley where it is the main source of water and bringing it to live. Now in Hama you have those famous waterwheels. A lot of money goes into there maintenance and the creeking of them is stuff of legends in the Arabian world. Only there is no water left in the river. TO many Damms are keeping the river tiny and the polution and rubish is devastating it. What a pitty!!! We walked for about 8km along the river. The city is making a effort to keep it beautiful with its central park but the stench is not always maskable and the rubish is at best an eyesore. But the Norias are great!
On the way back we went through the Souqh and were invited into a seamstress workshop. We had a good laugh with them, nice Tea and then we took some pictures. We tried to explain to them that we would now like to get to a shop where we can develope them so they have a paper copy.This took some convincing and many misunderstandings but finaly we were able to find one. So they were able a few days later to picjk their fotos up.
In the evening we asked for where we can go and eat fish as we saw many fish stalls with hug trout and catfish and some varieties we don't know.
We were sent to Abu Abbas. Finding it was not easy but what an experience! In a small junction there was this grill set up, 2 tables and a freezer. They only served chicken or fish. Abu Abbas opend the freezer, we were able to chose our fish. When we did so the guy was surprised, that much for the two of you? Yes that 2kg trout has our names written on it! It was grilled and so so tasty, we filled our bellies.
On the way back we stumbled over an artist shop which invited us in. He served us tea and I ended up buying a little protrait of a Shoemaker in the Suqh. But I also got figs, Apricots, sweet pumpkin and some very special turkish goat cheese. And a great conversation with a painter and a poet!
The next morning we had an early start and went to Palmyra. The Bus ride was ok except that the bus was very full and our neighbours were a familly with 3 children and only two seats between the 5 of them. Unfortuantely one of the children was also sick and the smell was not very inviting but hey that's why we have normally our own transport.
Palmyra was everything you hear and less than what you expect. But maybe we should have stayed there for a few days and walked more? It is impressive, big and surounded by desert. The landscape is incredible, the colonaded street vast and the temples big, but the temple of Bal is a disapointment and I think arquitectonical we preferred Balbek. But Palmyra had a great setting! In Palmyra we had the worst lunch of our trip too. The restaurant owner was a nice man and trying very hard. But the food was awful and expensive. We were so disapointed that we were not even able to tell him that we did not like the food. THinking what he needed to do we came up with so many things that we decided he better just let it be. What a pitty but hey you need the good and the bad.
On the way to the bus we met Neo a South Korean guy travelling. He is a great guy and we really liked him. He shared the taxi with us to the bus, we were in the same bus to Damascus and then we took him along to our hotel in Damascus where he stayed a few nights. We went for dinner together and shared some really good moments. I hope to meet up with him again in the future.So Neo on your next trip come and visit us in Europe! Please!
We stayed 2 nights in Damascus as I wanted to sort out our Visa to Jordan and to visit the christian area of the souqh and also go to see the storyteller. Well we had the famous Icecream that was about it. The souqh was all closed as it was Eid. We did not see the killing of the sheeps in the streets but having Damascus so empty and all shops closed was amazing.
however I was not able to convince Carlos to go to one of the expensive restaurants so we ate a syrian burger + fruitjuice for less than a dollar instead!
The next morning we gave in to Carlos' itchy bum and started cycling towards Bosra. We wanted to stop and see some more sites along the way but after the St George church (second oldest church in Syria) and Marias church I decided I do not want to cycle up the hill and that we better find a spot to camp in the corn chamber of syria. Soon we were invited to tea by someone.
I was spirited away to the women.Where I had a nice conversation with Ausaf and her daughters. They invited me to stay the night and even though we stopped there at 2 pm I was nearly ready to say yes but I needed to discuss this with Carlos first.
He in the meantime got invited by Ali a guest at Ausafs house. We created some tension because I tought Ali is Ausafs husband so I said yes to her (after speaking to Carlos but none of us understood the problem at that moment). When Ausaf asked me if I would like to have a shower I said yes, just then ALi was like lets go. Hmmm go?, Where to? Well as we were welcomed in both houses we said we will stay at AUsaf. ALi then stormed off upset. We were embarrased and sorry. 30min later Ali showed up with a pick up. ASking us to load the bikes and to stay at his place. We had no choice. He took us to see his mechanical workshop and his parents (it was smelling delicious) then we went to his house where again I was wisked away to the Ladies. Luckily Ausaf showed up until this moment I am not sure who was Alis wife and what was her name. At least Carlos and I were allowed to sleep in the same room and the next morning we left early (no breakfast for us).
We reached Bosra at 8am and visited the famous black basalt amphiteather and city. It was very very interesting.
After Bosra we had to press on becaus we had to make it to the Jordanian border on Thursday as on Friday it is closed.
We pedaled hard and made it in time. Oue exit from Syria was regal as we had a police officer escorting us on his motorbike until the boarder. The crossing was ok, Jordan is trying to be a little more serious about all.SO more check points and eyscanning at the boarder.But very friendly nonetheless. our first impression of Jordan was great. Asking for direction we were invited to tea,coke and water and given a guide to find the right road out of the city. Very friendly. The only problem were the peoples driving and constant shoutinjg of Hello into our ears but hey that is their ways. That evening we reached Irbid another day of 120km and tired legs. In the hotel we met Sabine and Thomas again the couple who stopped us on our search for an hotel in Damascus.
We came out at the Souqh and walked through it and again we were welcomed even though we were out of place in the Souqh at 10pm with most of the shops closing and no tourist crafts open. The next day we visited the national museum, the old trainstation and more suqh. Then it was time for us to catch the bus to Hama. The bikes stayed in Damascus so did most of our luggage. We were warned that it is the small EID celebrations and that taking buses will be complicated as everybody is travelling at that time of the year. But we were able to get to Hama all right.We imediatelybought tickets for the next morning to get to Palmyra or Tadmor as the syrians call it. Hama was both great and a disapointment. The oldest waterwheels are there, along the mighty Orontes river which we encountered pressed into a small chanel about 4 weeks earlier in the funny AL Ghab valley (one side very conservative the other side of the Valley very liberal if you remember) and of course in the Beka Valley where it is the main source of water and bringing it to live. Now in Hama you have those famous waterwheels. A lot of money goes into there maintenance and the creeking of them is stuff of legends in the Arabian world. Only there is no water left in the river. TO many Damms are keeping the river tiny and the polution and rubish is devastating it. What a pitty!!! We walked for about 8km along the river. The city is making a effort to keep it beautiful with its central park but the stench is not always maskable and the rubish is at best an eyesore. But the Norias are great!
On the way back we went through the Souqh and were invited into a seamstress workshop. We had a good laugh with them, nice Tea and then we took some pictures. We tried to explain to them that we would now like to get to a shop where we can develope them so they have a paper copy.This took some convincing and many misunderstandings but finaly we were able to find one. So they were able a few days later to picjk their fotos up.
In the evening we asked for where we can go and eat fish as we saw many fish stalls with hug trout and catfish and some varieties we don't know.
We were sent to Abu Abbas. Finding it was not easy but what an experience! In a small junction there was this grill set up, 2 tables and a freezer. They only served chicken or fish. Abu Abbas opend the freezer, we were able to chose our fish. When we did so the guy was surprised, that much for the two of you? Yes that 2kg trout has our names written on it! It was grilled and so so tasty, we filled our bellies.
On the way back we stumbled over an artist shop which invited us in. He served us tea and I ended up buying a little protrait of a Shoemaker in the Suqh. But I also got figs, Apricots, sweet pumpkin and some very special turkish goat cheese. And a great conversation with a painter and a poet!
The next morning we had an early start and went to Palmyra. The Bus ride was ok except that the bus was very full and our neighbours were a familly with 3 children and only two seats between the 5 of them. Unfortuantely one of the children was also sick and the smell was not very inviting but hey that's why we have normally our own transport.
Palmyra was everything you hear and less than what you expect. But maybe we should have stayed there for a few days and walked more? It is impressive, big and surounded by desert. The landscape is incredible, the colonaded street vast and the temples big, but the temple of Bal is a disapointment and I think arquitectonical we preferred Balbek. But Palmyra had a great setting! In Palmyra we had the worst lunch of our trip too. The restaurant owner was a nice man and trying very hard. But the food was awful and expensive. We were so disapointed that we were not even able to tell him that we did not like the food. THinking what he needed to do we came up with so many things that we decided he better just let it be. What a pitty but hey you need the good and the bad.
On the way to the bus we met Neo a South Korean guy travelling. He is a great guy and we really liked him. He shared the taxi with us to the bus, we were in the same bus to Damascus and then we took him along to our hotel in Damascus where he stayed a few nights. We went for dinner together and shared some really good moments. I hope to meet up with him again in the future.So Neo on your next trip come and visit us in Europe! Please!
We stayed 2 nights in Damascus as I wanted to sort out our Visa to Jordan and to visit the christian area of the souqh and also go to see the storyteller. Well we had the famous Icecream that was about it. The souqh was all closed as it was Eid. We did not see the killing of the sheeps in the streets but having Damascus so empty and all shops closed was amazing.
however I was not able to convince Carlos to go to one of the expensive restaurants so we ate a syrian burger + fruitjuice for less than a dollar instead!
The next morning we gave in to Carlos' itchy bum and started cycling towards Bosra. We wanted to stop and see some more sites along the way but after the St George church (second oldest church in Syria) and Marias church I decided I do not want to cycle up the hill and that we better find a spot to camp in the corn chamber of syria. Soon we were invited to tea by someone.
I was spirited away to the women.Where I had a nice conversation with Ausaf and her daughters. They invited me to stay the night and even though we stopped there at 2 pm I was nearly ready to say yes but I needed to discuss this with Carlos first.
He in the meantime got invited by Ali a guest at Ausafs house. We created some tension because I tought Ali is Ausafs husband so I said yes to her (after speaking to Carlos but none of us understood the problem at that moment). When Ausaf asked me if I would like to have a shower I said yes, just then ALi was like lets go. Hmmm go?, Where to? Well as we were welcomed in both houses we said we will stay at AUsaf. ALi then stormed off upset. We were embarrased and sorry. 30min later Ali showed up with a pick up. ASking us to load the bikes and to stay at his place. We had no choice. He took us to see his mechanical workshop and his parents (it was smelling delicious) then we went to his house where again I was wisked away to the Ladies. Luckily Ausaf showed up until this moment I am not sure who was Alis wife and what was her name. At least Carlos and I were allowed to sleep in the same room and the next morning we left early (no breakfast for us).
We reached Bosra at 8am and visited the famous black basalt amphiteather and city. It was very very interesting.
After Bosra we had to press on becaus we had to make it to the Jordanian border on Thursday as on Friday it is closed.
We pedaled hard and made it in time. Oue exit from Syria was regal as we had a police officer escorting us on his motorbike until the boarder. The crossing was ok, Jordan is trying to be a little more serious about all.SO more check points and eyscanning at the boarder.But very friendly nonetheless. our first impression of Jordan was great. Asking for direction we were invited to tea,coke and water and given a guide to find the right road out of the city. Very friendly. The only problem were the peoples driving and constant shoutinjg of Hello into our ears but hey that is their ways. That evening we reached Irbid another day of 120km and tired legs. In the hotel we met Sabine and Thomas again the couple who stopped us on our search for an hotel in Damascus.
De Amchit a Saida
Hola a tod@s. Llevo un buen tiempo sin escribir por lo que ahora toca una buena dosis para poneros al dia.
Como ya os habia dicho la rueda delantera de mi bici se rompio y tuvimos que comprar una para poder seguir el viaje. Por suerte llegando a Amchit conocimos a Cesar y el nos llevo hasta una tienda de bicicletas donde pude comprar una rueda de decente calidad.
Cesar se fue de pesca submarina una noche y trajo unos 5kg de pescado que nos comimos en su casa. Para hacer hambre para la cena ese dia nos fuimos en bici hasta la gruta de Jeita. Ese lugar es realmente increible. La gruta es enorme. Dentro se pueden ver estalagtitas y estalagmitas enormes y hasta navegamos en el rio que tiene la gruta. Desafortunadamente no dejan tomar fotos de la gruta por lo que el unico sitio donde quedo gravado fue en nuestra memoria. La verdad que este es un sitio para visitar si viajais a Beirut.
Salimos de Amchit hace unos 15 dias mas o menos. Nuestra ruta ruta seguia la costa hacia Beirut y el sur de el Libano. Fuimos suficientemente inteligentes para salir temprano en la manhana por lo que evitamos la saturacion de trafico que normalmente hay. Unas de las cosas que pudimos darnos cuenta es que cuanto mas al sur te vas la costa esta mas y mas sucia. Mientras que en Amchit la costa era como puede ser cualquier sitio de playa en Espanha, el sur la costa estaba llena de suciedad (solo las playas privada se salvavan). Pero a pesar de eso el Libano es un bonito pais.
Llegamos a Saida bastante tarde. Fueron unos 100km y despues de haber descansado en Amchit por unos 4 dias se hizo duro el volver a pedalear. Saida es una pequenha ciudad la cual es muy interesante. La zona vieja esta llena de pequenhas calles en las cuales se asenta un zoco que esta lleno de vida hasta que anochece (normalmente la electricidad es restringida a unas ciertas horas al dia). En Saida visitamos su pequenho castillo el cual se adentra en el mar. Tambien visitamos un museo del Jabon el cual fue realmente interesante. El Jabon se hace de aceite de oliva y laurel, y tambien lo hay con aromas.
Despues de dormir en Saida viajamos en minibus a Sur (la ultima ciudad antes de Israel y bajo proteccion de Naciones Unidas). Sur es muy bonita. Es una ciudad con gran actividad pesquera y sus ruinas son interesantes. Lo mejor para mi fue la playa. unos 3km de arena blanca y limpia. Fue una pena no tener tiempo para banharse.
Como ya os habia dicho la rueda delantera de mi bici se rompio y tuvimos que comprar una para poder seguir el viaje. Por suerte llegando a Amchit conocimos a Cesar y el nos llevo hasta una tienda de bicicletas donde pude comprar una rueda de decente calidad.
Cesar se fue de pesca submarina una noche y trajo unos 5kg de pescado que nos comimos en su casa. Para hacer hambre para la cena ese dia nos fuimos en bici hasta la gruta de Jeita. Ese lugar es realmente increible. La gruta es enorme. Dentro se pueden ver estalagtitas y estalagmitas enormes y hasta navegamos en el rio que tiene la gruta. Desafortunadamente no dejan tomar fotos de la gruta por lo que el unico sitio donde quedo gravado fue en nuestra memoria. La verdad que este es un sitio para visitar si viajais a Beirut.
Salimos de Amchit hace unos 15 dias mas o menos. Nuestra ruta ruta seguia la costa hacia Beirut y el sur de el Libano. Fuimos suficientemente inteligentes para salir temprano en la manhana por lo que evitamos la saturacion de trafico que normalmente hay. Unas de las cosas que pudimos darnos cuenta es que cuanto mas al sur te vas la costa esta mas y mas sucia. Mientras que en Amchit la costa era como puede ser cualquier sitio de playa en Espanha, el sur la costa estaba llena de suciedad (solo las playas privada se salvavan). Pero a pesar de eso el Libano es un bonito pais.
Llegamos a Saida bastante tarde. Fueron unos 100km y despues de haber descansado en Amchit por unos 4 dias se hizo duro el volver a pedalear. Saida es una pequenha ciudad la cual es muy interesante. La zona vieja esta llena de pequenhas calles en las cuales se asenta un zoco que esta lleno de vida hasta que anochece (normalmente la electricidad es restringida a unas ciertas horas al dia). En Saida visitamos su pequenho castillo el cual se adentra en el mar. Tambien visitamos un museo del Jabon el cual fue realmente interesante. El Jabon se hace de aceite de oliva y laurel, y tambien lo hay con aromas.
Despues de dormir en Saida viajamos en minibus a Sur (la ultima ciudad antes de Israel y bajo proteccion de Naciones Unidas). Sur es muy bonita. Es una ciudad con gran actividad pesquera y sus ruinas son interesantes. Lo mejor para mi fue la playa. unos 3km de arena blanca y limpia. Fue una pena no tener tiempo para banharse.
Saida to Damascus
From Saida we keept on towards the central valley of Lebanon. Of course whenever you do not cycle right beside the coast you will have to get up the mountains. This time we chose a route only bringing us to 1800mosl. so it was not to bad. (Well we could not have gotten any higher in the south but of course 1000m lower.
To be fair this was not Carlos' wish but mine. I wanted to travel trought the Chouf. This is the biggest national park in Lebanon protecting 5% of its landmass. It is the home to Wolfes and many other cool animals but more importantly to the Cedar trees. It was spectacular. We only did about 60km that day and it was hot but we went via Beit en Din which was the former Mameluks capital city and some spectacular buildings remaind, we also passed the most expensive hotel in Lebanon and went on another hill through a beautiful valley with oaks, chestnuts etc in colors towards Masser al Chouf where we find a really nice hotel /hostel for the night managed by the national park authorities. I went for a stroll through the tiney village and went to the Nationalpark office where we met Massimo. A italian professor of Agriculture who is now doing a lot of PS and GIS work and who offered us his latest map of the CHouf with a route which he also loaded on GPS for us to have a dayhike there. Thank you so much Massimo this was generous of you. The next day Barbara his girlfriend (and a ex italian Slalom skiracer) drove us up the hill to the starting point of the hike and then we went on for the next 4h. What a beauty these forests are! ANd the Oaks were turning color. We also saw wolfpaw prints and a woodpecker. Carlos then decided to walk downhill, whereas I hitched a ride with the park wardens (and got invited to coffee, homegrown apples and a place to stay the next time). In the evening we finished off our bottle of Lebanese wine which needs a little more work for my taste and had another goooood dinner at the hotel.
Then it was time to tackle the last big mountain in Lebanon for us and to dropp into the famous (or infamous) Beka Valley. The uphill was ok, just long the downhill was thrilling and the heat in the Beka more than on the other side. We bought another bottle of wine in one of the wineries in the valley but the further north we rode along the valley the less wine there was growing and more wheat, Olives, apples and mandarine orchards were visible. ALso you saw many more tents some of the seasonal workers picking the fruit some from the refugees etc. Headscarfs got more and more usual and the green banner of Hizbollah more and more visible. But the people got more and more friendly and it was a joy to be back in the muslim area. We were invited for Lunch by some nice ladies one covered one very hip and her brother who lives in Luzern Switzerland. The invitation to stay the night followed but we declined. We arrived to Balbek and went straight from the hotel to the ruins because it was nearly time for the sunset.
It was great. Sacsayhuaman in Cusco cannot compare to the stones the Romans used to build this. Huge is the wordfor it. I wonder how they could move it. Coloms 40m high and even though probably 3m in diameter still looking elegant. It was outstanding! and all was redish and in perfect evening light. But unfortunately by 6pm it was dark. So we had a stroll through the city trying to find something to eat and drink. There was not too much choice and shops closed early as there were the usual power cuts. A Lebanese told us, the Lebanese people are rich but the government is poor and I think in general that is very true.
The next morning we left. We made the decision not to go to Homs and Hama in Syria but to go to Damascus. This was based on me not wanting to ride the bike to Palmyra and Carlos not wanting to transport it by bus. So back south in the Beka Valley we went again. Visiting Anjar but not stopiong in Zahle the food capital of Lebanon. IN ANjar we visited the Umayad palace and found a Chameleon.
Then up the hill we went and crossed the Lebanese boarder with no problems. Then we had to cross at least 5km of no mans land between the two countries before we reached... no not the boarder but a huge dutyfree shopping center on the syrian side including a Dunkin' no Donughts (which was closed down).
After a coffee crossed into Syria with no problems. By that time I was very tired we had done more than 80km and most of it was either uphill or flat (but Carlos had the pedal on the gas even on the flat nothing with gently rolling). Carlos tried to goad me with saying now it is all down hill, well it wasn't. So we decided to do a detour through the Barad valley and maybe we could camp there somewhere. That was quite something, There are really old remains there. Caves in a sandstone valley very narrow. AN old railway line going up the mountain beside the river gorge. But we did not stop for camping and then it became really poblated again and the chance was gone. Before we knew and after a exhilarating downhill we were on the outskirts of Damascus where a friendly local onbike showed us the right entrance to the City.The only problem were the many steep uphills along the way. Then we hit Damascus center and a sign pointing up another hill for the center and one down. SO we asked a local which way to take and he said down.... After 3km the road stopped and turned away from the center and only a one way road came up the hill from the center. This was the ugly bit. we had to ride on a narrow sidewalk with trees obtrusing our way and the sun had set and it got dark. After 5km that way and many swearwords we hit a twoway road again and a very bussy round about.Only by that time it was pitch dark and heavy traffic was sourounding us. We were fairly lost and had problems to figure out where to go. Finally the police was able to point us in the right direction and on we went. We hit the right spot and only had to find the hotel. A friendly local tried to divert us to his hotel but the price was a little to much for us. Finally he relented and showed us where to go.We entered a ally (on foot) of the souqh and where stopped by two travellers who could not believe we travelled by bike. The anounced that the hotel is just around the corner but there was only one room left when they arrived, so we hurried along. Shortly after we found the hotel and a room for us in the AL Saada hotel. A friendly hangout.
We then went back to the Souqh and the first time in nearly a month had something with potatos to eat. It was pricy (3dollars hehehe) but tasty.
To be fair this was not Carlos' wish but mine. I wanted to travel trought the Chouf. This is the biggest national park in Lebanon protecting 5% of its landmass. It is the home to Wolfes and many other cool animals but more importantly to the Cedar trees. It was spectacular. We only did about 60km that day and it was hot but we went via Beit en Din which was the former Mameluks capital city and some spectacular buildings remaind, we also passed the most expensive hotel in Lebanon and went on another hill through a beautiful valley with oaks, chestnuts etc in colors towards Masser al Chouf where we find a really nice hotel /hostel for the night managed by the national park authorities. I went for a stroll through the tiney village and went to the Nationalpark office where we met Massimo. A italian professor of Agriculture who is now doing a lot of PS and GIS work and who offered us his latest map of the CHouf with a route which he also loaded on GPS for us to have a dayhike there. Thank you so much Massimo this was generous of you. The next day Barbara his girlfriend (and a ex italian Slalom skiracer) drove us up the hill to the starting point of the hike and then we went on for the next 4h. What a beauty these forests are! ANd the Oaks were turning color. We also saw wolfpaw prints and a woodpecker. Carlos then decided to walk downhill, whereas I hitched a ride with the park wardens (and got invited to coffee, homegrown apples and a place to stay the next time). In the evening we finished off our bottle of Lebanese wine which needs a little more work for my taste and had another goooood dinner at the hotel.
Then it was time to tackle the last big mountain in Lebanon for us and to dropp into the famous (or infamous) Beka Valley. The uphill was ok, just long the downhill was thrilling and the heat in the Beka more than on the other side. We bought another bottle of wine in one of the wineries in the valley but the further north we rode along the valley the less wine there was growing and more wheat, Olives, apples and mandarine orchards were visible. ALso you saw many more tents some of the seasonal workers picking the fruit some from the refugees etc. Headscarfs got more and more usual and the green banner of Hizbollah more and more visible. But the people got more and more friendly and it was a joy to be back in the muslim area. We were invited for Lunch by some nice ladies one covered one very hip and her brother who lives in Luzern Switzerland. The invitation to stay the night followed but we declined. We arrived to Balbek and went straight from the hotel to the ruins because it was nearly time for the sunset.
It was great. Sacsayhuaman in Cusco cannot compare to the stones the Romans used to build this. Huge is the wordfor it. I wonder how they could move it. Coloms 40m high and even though probably 3m in diameter still looking elegant. It was outstanding! and all was redish and in perfect evening light. But unfortunately by 6pm it was dark. So we had a stroll through the city trying to find something to eat and drink. There was not too much choice and shops closed early as there were the usual power cuts. A Lebanese told us, the Lebanese people are rich but the government is poor and I think in general that is very true.
The next morning we left. We made the decision not to go to Homs and Hama in Syria but to go to Damascus. This was based on me not wanting to ride the bike to Palmyra and Carlos not wanting to transport it by bus. So back south in the Beka Valley we went again. Visiting Anjar but not stopiong in Zahle the food capital of Lebanon. IN ANjar we visited the Umayad palace and found a Chameleon.
Then up the hill we went and crossed the Lebanese boarder with no problems. Then we had to cross at least 5km of no mans land between the two countries before we reached... no not the boarder but a huge dutyfree shopping center on the syrian side including a Dunkin' no Donughts (which was closed down).
After a coffee crossed into Syria with no problems. By that time I was very tired we had done more than 80km and most of it was either uphill or flat (but Carlos had the pedal on the gas even on the flat nothing with gently rolling). Carlos tried to goad me with saying now it is all down hill, well it wasn't. So we decided to do a detour through the Barad valley and maybe we could camp there somewhere. That was quite something, There are really old remains there. Caves in a sandstone valley very narrow. AN old railway line going up the mountain beside the river gorge. But we did not stop for camping and then it became really poblated again and the chance was gone. Before we knew and after a exhilarating downhill we were on the outskirts of Damascus where a friendly local onbike showed us the right entrance to the City.The only problem were the many steep uphills along the way. Then we hit Damascus center and a sign pointing up another hill for the center and one down. SO we asked a local which way to take and he said down.... After 3km the road stopped and turned away from the center and only a one way road came up the hill from the center. This was the ugly bit. we had to ride on a narrow sidewalk with trees obtrusing our way and the sun had set and it got dark. After 5km that way and many swearwords we hit a twoway road again and a very bussy round about.Only by that time it was pitch dark and heavy traffic was sourounding us. We were fairly lost and had problems to figure out where to go. Finally the police was able to point us in the right direction and on we went. We hit the right spot and only had to find the hotel. A friendly local tried to divert us to his hotel but the price was a little to much for us. Finally he relented and showed us where to go.We entered a ally (on foot) of the souqh and where stopped by two travellers who could not believe we travelled by bike. The anounced that the hotel is just around the corner but there was only one room left when they arrived, so we hurried along. Shortly after we found the hotel and a room for us in the AL Saada hotel. A friendly hangout.
We then went back to the Souqh and the first time in nearly a month had something with potatos to eat. It was pricy (3dollars hehehe) but tasty.
Amchit to Saida
Dear Friends. I am sorry but you will have an overload of updates.
But I will break it down in a few reports and if we are lucky I can support some photos.
Ok about 15 days ago we left Amchit after a great fresh see fish meal at Berth, Gilbert and Cesars house.
Cesar went night fishing the day before with his tank and harpune and brought some tasty fish back. Before the lovely dinner we went to Jeita Grotto. Wow this is realy impressive. A lot of Stalagmite and Stalactites and they are huge. If you are ever in Beirut go and see it. But unfortunately we are only able to remember the site as photos are not allowed. We left our dear friends of Amchit behind unfortunately the problems with the truck was still ongoing and Cesar was still working 24h a day. I hope you guys will one day be able to enjoy live a little and visit us in Europe. Please let us know when you come a bed will be ready!
We cycled via Beirut to the South of Lebanon along the coast. It was ok traffic wise as it was Saturday and early in the morning. Also they already started to block some roads for the Beirut Marathon (a lot of up and down if Emily wants to try something different to the London one). The coast gets sandier and unfortunatel dirtier the further south you get. Only the private beaches are being kept clean.
However it is a lovely country! We arrived in Saida reasonably late and only had a small incident at lunch when the owner of the bakery we stopped at decided to push our bikes out of the way with his car. He was very sorry (Saying no problem no prblem) and I was saying yes problem when you are a prick! But my Arabic was not allowing for it so I just gave him a dirty look.
Anyhow the bikes and racks were unharmed.
Saida is an very very interesting city. The old town full of life (no cars and no lights in the evening). The castle is nice from the outside better than the inside. And people much more arab than in other parts of Lebanon (maybe because of some palestinian influx).
We went also to the excellent Soap museum and payed a hell of a lot for the not very friendly and rather badly kept Yacub hotel. We were not pleased about this but hey that was all which was available.
The next day we took the minibus to Sur the last big town before Israel and under UN protection. Sur is beautiful! And the sites, biggest Hippodrom (built by Hadrian, yes the same who built the wall south of Scotland), under water Egyptian Harbour, and Phenician city, were spectacular. The town itself was ok we did unfortuntely not have time to go the the Suq, the beach (sand about 3km long) or the Phenician town outside of Sur. But it was worth the visit.
But I will break it down in a few reports and if we are lucky I can support some photos.
Ok about 15 days ago we left Amchit after a great fresh see fish meal at Berth, Gilbert and Cesars house.
Cesar went night fishing the day before with his tank and harpune and brought some tasty fish back. Before the lovely dinner we went to Jeita Grotto. Wow this is realy impressive. A lot of Stalagmite and Stalactites and they are huge. If you are ever in Beirut go and see it. But unfortunately we are only able to remember the site as photos are not allowed. We left our dear friends of Amchit behind unfortunately the problems with the truck was still ongoing and Cesar was still working 24h a day. I hope you guys will one day be able to enjoy live a little and visit us in Europe. Please let us know when you come a bed will be ready!
We cycled via Beirut to the South of Lebanon along the coast. It was ok traffic wise as it was Saturday and early in the morning. Also they already started to block some roads for the Beirut Marathon (a lot of up and down if Emily wants to try something different to the London one). The coast gets sandier and unfortunatel dirtier the further south you get. Only the private beaches are being kept clean.
However it is a lovely country! We arrived in Saida reasonably late and only had a small incident at lunch when the owner of the bakery we stopped at decided to push our bikes out of the way with his car. He was very sorry (Saying no problem no prblem) and I was saying yes problem when you are a prick! But my Arabic was not allowing for it so I just gave him a dirty look.
Anyhow the bikes and racks were unharmed.
Saida is an very very interesting city. The old town full of life (no cars and no lights in the evening). The castle is nice from the outside better than the inside. And people much more arab than in other parts of Lebanon (maybe because of some palestinian influx).
We went also to the excellent Soap museum and payed a hell of a lot for the not very friendly and rather badly kept Yacub hotel. We were not pleased about this but hey that was all which was available.
The next day we took the minibus to Sur the last big town before Israel and under UN protection. Sur is beautiful! And the sites, biggest Hippodrom (built by Hadrian, yes the same who built the wall south of Scotland), under water Egyptian Harbour, and Phenician city, were spectacular. The town itself was ok we did unfortuntely not have time to go the the Suq, the beach (sand about 3km long) or the Phenician town outside of Sur. But it was worth the visit.
Thursday, 4 November 2010
Wadi Qadisha to Amshritt
HI There
I am back and writing again. Well last time I stopped in Wadi Qadisha after our nightmarish 3 days in the mountains and the 2700m high pass to pedal over (Which I am really proud off my performance).
Well we stayed 3 nights in the Tiger House recommended by Nicholas and Roland our cycling friends from Lebanon. Thanks for the tip as it led to us meeting Mari, Marco and Phillip with whom we went hiking down the Qadisha Valley. The first day there we tried to find the entry and were mislead but fed by a lot of tea and coffee by the Syrian workers on the new road. Well in the afternoon a thunderstorm brought some snoow to the heights and an early return to the hotel where we met our 3 friends and with whom we spent the evening laughing, eating and drinking Raki or Arak as it is called here. We also joined them for the next days hike down the Qadisha Valley. The beginning was a little wet and not the landscape did not live up to the expectation. But after our lunch on the single track it was spectacular, unfortunatately night caught up with us to soon and we had to get out of the Valley and back to Becharre. On the way back we stopped at somebodys garage, he was destilling Alcohol and I wanted a photo, so the 5 of us were invited and we had some more Arak. Then we left and that moment a car passed, but unfortunately it already had a wife and 2 kids plus the driver. So while we tried to igure out who will take the ride the wife in the car told her husband to take her home and to take us to Bscharre only about 30min away. So we got our ride to the hotel. Lebanese can be enchanting people, very generous. The next day it was time to leave. So we pedaled down the valley and then on towards Agfa Cave. Unfortunately it was soon uphill again and well I broke my chain and that had to be fixed.. Then after a the sunshine turning into some clouds and some more shooting all around us (In Lebanon millions of birds lose their lives every year and the hunters are lazy bastards, I do not appreciate their sport) we suddenly saw a big Cedar forrest. We stopped and were informed that there are various trail. Off course we went on on foot to explore.
If Phillipe Mary or Marco read this go back to Tandourine Cedar forrest, it is worth it!
It was spendid! The place to be! We also bought the best Apricot Jam we ever tasted in our lives (Sorry Mami it must be the extra sun the fruit gets in Lebanon).
Then we went on and on and on, it was hilly and high up and there was no Hotel or good campsite. At 4pm it is getting dark, so we asked at a house to be informed that they do not have water and they are on the way to Beirut. He sent us up into the mountains but after 500m we turned around as it was to steep and no sign of no houses and some privacy (and we are heeding the warning not to camp without permision in Lebanon) So we went on and when we asked for Water a car stopped beside us and May and her french friends stopped. She was offering us help ad trying to reach a friend of hers who unfortunately was not at her mountain home and therefore they could not solve our problems. But thank you a lot May, we appreciate your intentions. By the way we are at the coast, but well and with no further trouble, if I need something I let you know, I promise!
Well by the time we got on it was dark and we had to deal with the crazy Lebanese drivers. The area was very poblated with big weekend villas so no hiding possible and we did not want to cause a security incident. We were stuffed, but suddenly I saw some guys and I asked Carlos to aaske them if they know a place where we can out the tent, they did. They were Syrians building a house and they put us in one of the unfinished rooms, gave us dinner, candles and a lovely evening. Thank you Saabh and colleagues you were real livesafer.
The next morning we visited Barraa. A SInk hole 280m deep and with 3 natural Arches as promised by Nicholas. It was spectacular. We then decided not to go to AgfaCave but to turn back to the coast. On the way down Carlos decided that we should give our bikes a good wash which we did at the petrolstation in Tandourine. When Carlos inflated his fron tire there was a big explosion leaving me deaft. His Rim exploded from the brake war it did not withstand the preasure anymore.
Great being in the middle of the mountains! Well the mecanic took ou his phone and started asking his friends if they would have a wheel for us, and they did. An hour later we got a new fron wheel, I would not normally look at a wheel like that twice but it brought us to the coast albeit the tyre did not fit well and Carlos had a bump every turn of the wheel which spoilt the first 20km of downhill. The canyon we decended was spectacular. The coast was great. Only that we were at the wrong spot. We had to follow the coast for another 10km until the camping so highly recommended by May and others. But we did not get there, we were stopped by a pickup truck. We met Cesar , 7 times Lebanese Cycling champion and partaker of the Moscow olympics! He gave us direction and invited us to his home that evening for dinner. But first he made sure we got to the camping safe! Bert and Gilbert (Wife and Son) were a delight to meet. we had a very nice traditional lebanese dinner and a good chat (only that I was sooo tired, please forgive me). The next morning Cesar wanted to take us to the shop in Jouniyah to get another wheel (one I would look at), unfortunately his truck was brocken and he tried to figure out a solution, so at the end we decided to spend the day at the sea, rocky beach of Amrit and to let Cesar sort out the truck. The next morning Cesar took us to the Trek shop which had a good wheel ready for us with a special very generous price reduction (Thank you Cesar you are the best) and then we went on to Beirut to the Volvo shop. Beirut was very interesting! Traffic is crazy.
In the evening Cesar went night fishing, Bert, Carlos and me sat on the rocks and waited for him to bring back the catch, and it was a good one (5kg)! Today we are going to eat it. I like Bert a lot, she has a very good calm energy! So I am very much looking forward to our dinner.
But before we have dinner Cesar took us back to Beirut early in the morning. We were in Downtown, the Museeum and Gemaizeh. We like Beirut a lot! I wish I would have an unlimited budget and I could go shopping. But to tell you the truth you would find most of the shops in the west end or on the Champ Elysee in Paris, just not as nicely done!
It is a very funny place, on one hand the buildings show the bullets from the 80 civil war on the other hand they are restoring them like crazy in a very nice style, also building ultra modern houses at the seefront. They are keeping the cars out of downtown which makes it a nice Coffee area with many places to sit, drink and eat, but then you have the tanks standing ready the military controlling every car entering the parkings with sniffer dogs etc. It must hurt to be lebanese and have a country which any moment can burn up with violence, while everybody really just tries to live.
But Beirut is enchanting.
A short status of our being:
One of the expensive Exped matress has an error and canot be used anymore, we cannot get a replacement as there is no dealer so we had to buy a cheap (bad replacement)
One Bicycle Rim exploded, replaced
One Front Rack brocken,not replace or fixable.
Carlos Furunkle healed (the bumps must have helped)
Barbaras Cycling shorts getting to big and causing skinn rush (Helped by Comped blister plaster and a week rest)
Skin dry but very very brown (only legs and arms but we will be working on the overal body including back and belly at the end of the trip)
KM done so far 1600.
State of mind:
Carlos wants to get on the bike, Barbara is less keen on it but will be playing along as any good arab wife following her man with the head down!
I am back and writing again. Well last time I stopped in Wadi Qadisha after our nightmarish 3 days in the mountains and the 2700m high pass to pedal over (Which I am really proud off my performance).
Well we stayed 3 nights in the Tiger House recommended by Nicholas and Roland our cycling friends from Lebanon. Thanks for the tip as it led to us meeting Mari, Marco and Phillip with whom we went hiking down the Qadisha Valley. The first day there we tried to find the entry and were mislead but fed by a lot of tea and coffee by the Syrian workers on the new road. Well in the afternoon a thunderstorm brought some snoow to the heights and an early return to the hotel where we met our 3 friends and with whom we spent the evening laughing, eating and drinking Raki or Arak as it is called here. We also joined them for the next days hike down the Qadisha Valley. The beginning was a little wet and not the landscape did not live up to the expectation. But after our lunch on the single track it was spectacular, unfortunatately night caught up with us to soon and we had to get out of the Valley and back to Becharre. On the way back we stopped at somebodys garage, he was destilling Alcohol and I wanted a photo, so the 5 of us were invited and we had some more Arak. Then we left and that moment a car passed, but unfortunately it already had a wife and 2 kids plus the driver. So while we tried to igure out who will take the ride the wife in the car told her husband to take her home and to take us to Bscharre only about 30min away. So we got our ride to the hotel. Lebanese can be enchanting people, very generous. The next day it was time to leave. So we pedaled down the valley and then on towards Agfa Cave. Unfortunately it was soon uphill again and well I broke my chain and that had to be fixed.. Then after a the sunshine turning into some clouds and some more shooting all around us (In Lebanon millions of birds lose their lives every year and the hunters are lazy bastards, I do not appreciate their sport) we suddenly saw a big Cedar forrest. We stopped and were informed that there are various trail. Off course we went on on foot to explore.
If Phillipe Mary or Marco read this go back to Tandourine Cedar forrest, it is worth it!
It was spendid! The place to be! We also bought the best Apricot Jam we ever tasted in our lives (Sorry Mami it must be the extra sun the fruit gets in Lebanon).
Then we went on and on and on, it was hilly and high up and there was no Hotel or good campsite. At 4pm it is getting dark, so we asked at a house to be informed that they do not have water and they are on the way to Beirut. He sent us up into the mountains but after 500m we turned around as it was to steep and no sign of no houses and some privacy (and we are heeding the warning not to camp without permision in Lebanon) So we went on and when we asked for Water a car stopped beside us and May and her french friends stopped. She was offering us help ad trying to reach a friend of hers who unfortunately was not at her mountain home and therefore they could not solve our problems. But thank you a lot May, we appreciate your intentions. By the way we are at the coast, but well and with no further trouble, if I need something I let you know, I promise!
Well by the time we got on it was dark and we had to deal with the crazy Lebanese drivers. The area was very poblated with big weekend villas so no hiding possible and we did not want to cause a security incident. We were stuffed, but suddenly I saw some guys and I asked Carlos to aaske them if they know a place where we can out the tent, they did. They were Syrians building a house and they put us in one of the unfinished rooms, gave us dinner, candles and a lovely evening. Thank you Saabh and colleagues you were real livesafer.
The next morning we visited Barraa. A SInk hole 280m deep and with 3 natural Arches as promised by Nicholas. It was spectacular. We then decided not to go to AgfaCave but to turn back to the coast. On the way down Carlos decided that we should give our bikes a good wash which we did at the petrolstation in Tandourine. When Carlos inflated his fron tire there was a big explosion leaving me deaft. His Rim exploded from the brake war it did not withstand the preasure anymore.
Great being in the middle of the mountains! Well the mecanic took ou his phone and started asking his friends if they would have a wheel for us, and they did. An hour later we got a new fron wheel, I would not normally look at a wheel like that twice but it brought us to the coast albeit the tyre did not fit well and Carlos had a bump every turn of the wheel which spoilt the first 20km of downhill. The canyon we decended was spectacular. The coast was great. Only that we were at the wrong spot. We had to follow the coast for another 10km until the camping so highly recommended by May and others. But we did not get there, we were stopped by a pickup truck. We met Cesar , 7 times Lebanese Cycling champion and partaker of the Moscow olympics! He gave us direction and invited us to his home that evening for dinner. But first he made sure we got to the camping safe! Bert and Gilbert (Wife and Son) were a delight to meet. we had a very nice traditional lebanese dinner and a good chat (only that I was sooo tired, please forgive me). The next morning Cesar wanted to take us to the shop in Jouniyah to get another wheel (one I would look at), unfortunately his truck was brocken and he tried to figure out a solution, so at the end we decided to spend the day at the sea, rocky beach of Amrit and to let Cesar sort out the truck. The next morning Cesar took us to the Trek shop which had a good wheel ready for us with a special very generous price reduction (Thank you Cesar you are the best) and then we went on to Beirut to the Volvo shop. Beirut was very interesting! Traffic is crazy.
In the evening Cesar went night fishing, Bert, Carlos and me sat on the rocks and waited for him to bring back the catch, and it was a good one (5kg)! Today we are going to eat it. I like Bert a lot, she has a very good calm energy! So I am very much looking forward to our dinner.
But before we have dinner Cesar took us back to Beirut early in the morning. We were in Downtown, the Museeum and Gemaizeh. We like Beirut a lot! I wish I would have an unlimited budget and I could go shopping. But to tell you the truth you would find most of the shops in the west end or on the Champ Elysee in Paris, just not as nicely done!
It is a very funny place, on one hand the buildings show the bullets from the 80 civil war on the other hand they are restoring them like crazy in a very nice style, also building ultra modern houses at the seefront. They are keeping the cars out of downtown which makes it a nice Coffee area with many places to sit, drink and eat, but then you have the tanks standing ready the military controlling every car entering the parkings with sniffer dogs etc. It must hurt to be lebanese and have a country which any moment can burn up with violence, while everybody really just tries to live.
But Beirut is enchanting.
A short status of our being:
One of the expensive Exped matress has an error and canot be used anymore, we cannot get a replacement as there is no dealer so we had to buy a cheap (bad replacement)
One Bicycle Rim exploded, replaced
One Front Rack brocken,not replace or fixable.
Carlos Furunkle healed (the bumps must have helped)
Barbaras Cycling shorts getting to big and causing skinn rush (Helped by Comped blister plaster and a week rest)
Skin dry but very very brown (only legs and arms but we will be working on the overal body including back and belly at the end of the trip)
KM done so far 1600.
State of mind:
Carlos wants to get on the bike, Barbara is less keen on it but will be playing along as any good arab wife following her man with the head down!
En el Libano
Hola a tod@s, teneis que disculparme por no haber escrito nada ultimamente. Entramos en el Libano hace mas o menos una semana. Estuvimos pedaleando (bueno, empujando la bici) por las montanhas (ya os contare mas detalladamente). Subimos la carretera mas alta de el Libano (unos 2700 mtrs) y hicimos una parada en un valle precioso que es patrimonio de la Unesco. De ahi salimos camino de la costa. Sin embargo tuvimos un incidente con mi bici, la rueda delantera se rompio (no hubo ningun accidente por suerte) y tuvimos que comprar una rueda vieja para poder llegar a Amshit (la costa).
Llegando a Amshit tuvimos la suerte de conocer a Cesar. Cesar es un integrante de la Federacion Libanesa de Ciclismo y fue campeon de el Libano varias veces. Ademas tambien participo en las Olimpiadas de Moscu 1980 donde acabo el 25 (nada mal la verdad). Cesar nos llevo a una tienda de bicicletas de un amigo suyo donde compramos una rueda con la que podremos finalizar nuestro viaje.
Ya os contare de toda esta aventura con mas detalle. Ahora tenemos que irnos a casa de Cesar a cenar pescado. Ayer por la noche nos fuimos de pesca (submarina) con el y pesco unos 5kg de rico pescado del Mediterraneo.
Bueno un abrazo y hasta pronto!!!
Llegando a Amshit tuvimos la suerte de conocer a Cesar. Cesar es un integrante de la Federacion Libanesa de Ciclismo y fue campeon de el Libano varias veces. Ademas tambien participo en las Olimpiadas de Moscu 1980 donde acabo el 25 (nada mal la verdad). Cesar nos llevo a una tienda de bicicletas de un amigo suyo donde compramos una rueda con la que podremos finalizar nuestro viaje.
Ya os contare de toda esta aventura con mas detalle. Ahora tenemos que irnos a casa de Cesar a cenar pescado. Ayer por la noche nos fuimos de pesca (submarina) con el y pesco unos 5kg de rico pescado del Mediterraneo.
Bueno un abrazo y hasta pronto!!!
Tuesday, 2 November 2010
Lattakia to Amshritt in Lebanon
Dear Friends
We have left Syria for once and we are in Lebanon.
How it worked.
We left Lattakia after a few disappointing days to travel along the coast towards the famous Krak de Chevalier. The coast is very built up and litter can be seen everywhere. But it was interesting anyway we passed many military installations and saw some stinger rockets pointing towards Greece maybe. Crossed Banyias and climbed up to the Templar fortress of Marqhab. What an error, the english built the access road straight up and it was at least 35 degrees and very humid. But it was worth it specially as it was Carlos birthday and he likes hills. Then we went down to the beach, camped inbetween the litter, after a covered bath for Barbara (long sleeves and trousers) on a beach with an old oilspill all dried up by now, we were invited to have a shower at the building site and to drink some Tea with them. We declined the invitation for dinner and went back to the tent at the beach, just to be invaded by the family on the plot of land next to the building site. They brought coffee and we had a nice conversation about us drinking or not alcohol. Then we mediated between the builder and them (Builder was not liked by the locals) and had some more tea together. We finally were able to tell them that we are fine sleeping at the beach and that we are not cold at all. At about midnight we were suddenly awoken by some maritime policeguys. Carlos crawled out with our Passports and made some small talk. The Military was there too. From then on it was not a quite night anymore as the military had patrols ever hour or so and they were not to quiet (they also tried out our shoes which we put on the bikes to dry). Well anyhow happy birthday Carlos! If this is the only encounter with the security forces then we are very lucky.
The next morning we started bright and early just to be brought some more Coffe before leaving. The Syriens are the best! Suddlenly we left the Muezzins behind us and were in deepest Christian country with many Churches and Marys. We stopped at one Church and had a nice very long chat with the priest. (Who told us he has been safed by a miracle last Christmas, he also was brave enought to tell us he has been in Jerusalem)
We cycled on. In Tartus which is a very nice seaside town we found a cyclist who showed us where the next fruitjuice can be found. Then we started the long way up towards Safita. On the way in the hills we tried to get some fast food. Carlos got really anoyed because the people tried to overcharge him. Finally we had a chat and I needed some foood, any foood! So we stopped at a chicken place which charged too much but it smelled delicious. We became the laughingstock for the locals as first we complained that he did not bring us some salad and when the bill was to be paid he tried to even take more and Carlos told him off. Suddenly the other locals came to us (after laughing at us) and asked where we are from, when Carlos said spain a mobile phone was pushed into his hand with somebody in Spain asking who he is. Well it was a funny conversation as nobody on the phone new how he got to talk to the other. Well we took our leave just to be stopped at the bottom before an uphill by one of the guys from the restaurant. I was not best pleased but he literally blocked our way. We were invited which we declined but he insisted. Well we ended up sleeping there a night and to meet Haisim and Suzanne was great. Haissim took us in his car up to Safita and for a drink (our first alcoholic drink with a Muslim, in a spectacular landscape and exeptional company). He also took us to the house of some friends where there was a secret passage to the Donjon (The WHite horse of Safita), and a pair of antique bathing shoes out of ebony, bone and mother or pearl inlaid. We had a great night and they are very very special people (they also called us a couple days later to make sure we do not need anything and to let us know that they miss us, like we them).
The next morning we climbed up to Safita and on up and down and up and up to the Krak de Chevalier or the Qalat al Hosn. WHat a climb.
There we met a group of Cyclist from the university of Lausanne (CH), Syrien and Lebanon. But they did not cycle with luggage they had there transport vehicle and ambulance with them. We stayed 2 nights at the Krak, and also visited Marmarita (not worth it) and St George monastery (very worth it).
Then it was time to say good bye to Syria for a while.
All down hill into Lebanon. It was an very straight forward boarder crossing. Then the uphill started and off course Carlos wanted as a birthday gift the difficulte route to the Wadi Qadisha. So we had to cross the highest point at 2700m.
Well not on the first day in Lebanon.
By lunchtime the other cyclists catched up with us and Nicholas and Roland the two lebanese introduced us to their friend Avo and his friend which are keen mountainbikers. They told us to take this other rout which was not marked on the map. I asked how long it is and they said 7h to the Wadi. I said this will be at least 3 days with our heavy bikes and he said no way it is a good route. I tried to get him to show me on the map but he could not make it out. I should have then realised this is not a good idea but...
Well that evening we camped in Shamtuq after riding up the mountain quite well.The next morning we follwed the Lebanese mountain route even though everybody said it is not good for bikes and it was fairly soon not paved and getting rought. Well it was at least very beautiful. But shit it was bad for the bikes and Carlos moral. We had no idea where we really where and it was very remote. Each time we found a truck driver (big limestone quarrys everywhere but nothing else) he said godown to to Hermil which was the wrong side of the Valley) Well the first night we camped in a place called Marhin or something like this. We found a guy who spoke some french and who was planting apple trees. He offered us to camp beside the little beautiful lake and to reconsider if it would not be better to go down to Hermil as the road ahead was very steep and bumpy. He also brought us dinner. Thank you Mr Alauwi.
The next morning we decided to press ahead. It was 4km steep uphill we needed to leave one bike and to push the other together, riding was impossible. After that we had a nice downhill on a paved road (going to Hermil) then we were on a dirt track again and after 1km we were unable to ride on the flat as it was so bumpy. We stopped swearing and talking a long time ago otherwise I think it would have been the day of the foul language. We met a local and he told us that they came from the hunt and that we are crazy. But the good news was that it was only about 11 km to go (or so we understood) but yes the road is not in a good condition for some of it. He said it will take us about 3h which we did not believe. Well we should have we walked and walked and it was not all of it uphill. The road is now classified as Belgian. It was like cobbles only that every second was amiss. When we came to the bend in the road we suddenly heard a lot of shooting going on and the guys from last night told us before leaving not to stay in Orgush as the people are no good. We were a little worried as we found that it was impossible to have hunting rifles which can shoot so many shots or that the hunting party would be so big as it was a high desert area. Well we kept going on carefully turning the bend.... and there they were with the big Humvees H3, the Jeeps and the Range Rovers. With beautifully carved Berretta guns and camping chairs and 100 of boxes and 1000 of shells of amunition lying around. The Christians in Lebanon like to hunt small birds they kill them on the migration routes and they kill and kill and kill. 300 birds per day and person and this is only the ones they bother to collect. It is oustanding ahh and illegal even in teh Lebanon. But the military and police turn a blind eye that's for sure. IT was experience to see those really expensive toys (cars, guns clothes)in the middle of know where in a supposedly poor country (St Moritz in Winter has the same collection of cars). Well they did not offer us a ride but water! WE walked on and keept pushing. FInally at 3pm we reached the paved rode leading over the pass to the Wadi Qadisha. And it was a hard climb. I made it nearly to the top by myself but at then I got some help by Carlos pushing.. The downhill was great but the Cedar Trees of Qadisha where sad.
ANyhow I will be writing more about Qadisha and our friends Phillipe, Mari and Marco and our hike in a few days. Now it is time to go to bed!
By the way how do you know you are in Lebanon?
If a Mercedes is scratching your bike!
We have left Syria for once and we are in Lebanon.
How it worked.
We left Lattakia after a few disappointing days to travel along the coast towards the famous Krak de Chevalier. The coast is very built up and litter can be seen everywhere. But it was interesting anyway we passed many military installations and saw some stinger rockets pointing towards Greece maybe. Crossed Banyias and climbed up to the Templar fortress of Marqhab. What an error, the english built the access road straight up and it was at least 35 degrees and very humid. But it was worth it specially as it was Carlos birthday and he likes hills. Then we went down to the beach, camped inbetween the litter, after a covered bath for Barbara (long sleeves and trousers) on a beach with an old oilspill all dried up by now, we were invited to have a shower at the building site and to drink some Tea with them. We declined the invitation for dinner and went back to the tent at the beach, just to be invaded by the family on the plot of land next to the building site. They brought coffee and we had a nice conversation about us drinking or not alcohol. Then we mediated between the builder and them (Builder was not liked by the locals) and had some more tea together. We finally were able to tell them that we are fine sleeping at the beach and that we are not cold at all. At about midnight we were suddenly awoken by some maritime policeguys. Carlos crawled out with our Passports and made some small talk. The Military was there too. From then on it was not a quite night anymore as the military had patrols ever hour or so and they were not to quiet (they also tried out our shoes which we put on the bikes to dry). Well anyhow happy birthday Carlos! If this is the only encounter with the security forces then we are very lucky.
The next morning we started bright and early just to be brought some more Coffe before leaving. The Syriens are the best! Suddlenly we left the Muezzins behind us and were in deepest Christian country with many Churches and Marys. We stopped at one Church and had a nice very long chat with the priest. (Who told us he has been safed by a miracle last Christmas, he also was brave enought to tell us he has been in Jerusalem)
We cycled on. In Tartus which is a very nice seaside town we found a cyclist who showed us where the next fruitjuice can be found. Then we started the long way up towards Safita. On the way in the hills we tried to get some fast food. Carlos got really anoyed because the people tried to overcharge him. Finally we had a chat and I needed some foood, any foood! So we stopped at a chicken place which charged too much but it smelled delicious. We became the laughingstock for the locals as first we complained that he did not bring us some salad and when the bill was to be paid he tried to even take more and Carlos told him off. Suddenly the other locals came to us (after laughing at us) and asked where we are from, when Carlos said spain a mobile phone was pushed into his hand with somebody in Spain asking who he is. Well it was a funny conversation as nobody on the phone new how he got to talk to the other. Well we took our leave just to be stopped at the bottom before an uphill by one of the guys from the restaurant. I was not best pleased but he literally blocked our way. We were invited which we declined but he insisted. Well we ended up sleeping there a night and to meet Haisim and Suzanne was great. Haissim took us in his car up to Safita and for a drink (our first alcoholic drink with a Muslim, in a spectacular landscape and exeptional company). He also took us to the house of some friends where there was a secret passage to the Donjon (The WHite horse of Safita), and a pair of antique bathing shoes out of ebony, bone and mother or pearl inlaid. We had a great night and they are very very special people (they also called us a couple days later to make sure we do not need anything and to let us know that they miss us, like we them).
The next morning we climbed up to Safita and on up and down and up and up to the Krak de Chevalier or the Qalat al Hosn. WHat a climb.
There we met a group of Cyclist from the university of Lausanne (CH), Syrien and Lebanon. But they did not cycle with luggage they had there transport vehicle and ambulance with them. We stayed 2 nights at the Krak, and also visited Marmarita (not worth it) and St George monastery (very worth it).
Then it was time to say good bye to Syria for a while.
All down hill into Lebanon. It was an very straight forward boarder crossing. Then the uphill started and off course Carlos wanted as a birthday gift the difficulte route to the Wadi Qadisha. So we had to cross the highest point at 2700m.
Well not on the first day in Lebanon.
By lunchtime the other cyclists catched up with us and Nicholas and Roland the two lebanese introduced us to their friend Avo and his friend which are keen mountainbikers. They told us to take this other rout which was not marked on the map. I asked how long it is and they said 7h to the Wadi. I said this will be at least 3 days with our heavy bikes and he said no way it is a good route. I tried to get him to show me on the map but he could not make it out. I should have then realised this is not a good idea but...
Well that evening we camped in Shamtuq after riding up the mountain quite well.The next morning we follwed the Lebanese mountain route even though everybody said it is not good for bikes and it was fairly soon not paved and getting rought. Well it was at least very beautiful. But shit it was bad for the bikes and Carlos moral. We had no idea where we really where and it was very remote. Each time we found a truck driver (big limestone quarrys everywhere but nothing else) he said godown to to Hermil which was the wrong side of the Valley) Well the first night we camped in a place called Marhin or something like this. We found a guy who spoke some french and who was planting apple trees. He offered us to camp beside the little beautiful lake and to reconsider if it would not be better to go down to Hermil as the road ahead was very steep and bumpy. He also brought us dinner. Thank you Mr Alauwi.
The next morning we decided to press ahead. It was 4km steep uphill we needed to leave one bike and to push the other together, riding was impossible. After that we had a nice downhill on a paved road (going to Hermil) then we were on a dirt track again and after 1km we were unable to ride on the flat as it was so bumpy. We stopped swearing and talking a long time ago otherwise I think it would have been the day of the foul language. We met a local and he told us that they came from the hunt and that we are crazy. But the good news was that it was only about 11 km to go (or so we understood) but yes the road is not in a good condition for some of it. He said it will take us about 3h which we did not believe. Well we should have we walked and walked and it was not all of it uphill. The road is now classified as Belgian. It was like cobbles only that every second was amiss. When we came to the bend in the road we suddenly heard a lot of shooting going on and the guys from last night told us before leaving not to stay in Orgush as the people are no good. We were a little worried as we found that it was impossible to have hunting rifles which can shoot so many shots or that the hunting party would be so big as it was a high desert area. Well we kept going on carefully turning the bend.... and there they were with the big Humvees H3, the Jeeps and the Range Rovers. With beautifully carved Berretta guns and camping chairs and 100 of boxes and 1000 of shells of amunition lying around. The Christians in Lebanon like to hunt small birds they kill them on the migration routes and they kill and kill and kill. 300 birds per day and person and this is only the ones they bother to collect. It is oustanding ahh and illegal even in teh Lebanon. But the military and police turn a blind eye that's for sure. IT was experience to see those really expensive toys (cars, guns clothes)in the middle of know where in a supposedly poor country (St Moritz in Winter has the same collection of cars). Well they did not offer us a ride but water! WE walked on and keept pushing. FInally at 3pm we reached the paved rode leading over the pass to the Wadi Qadisha. And it was a hard climb. I made it nearly to the top by myself but at then I got some help by Carlos pushing.. The downhill was great but the Cedar Trees of Qadisha where sad.
ANyhow I will be writing more about Qadisha and our friends Phillipe, Mari and Marco and our hike in a few days. Now it is time to go to bed!
By the way how do you know you are in Lebanon?
If a Mercedes is scratching your bike!
Thursday, 21 October 2010
From Aleppo to Lattakia
Hi Guys
We have found a hacker who gave us access to the blog. So we are able to post photos again.
We we have travelled already over 1000km by bike. The longest day so far was 120km the shortest about 24km. We saw loads of historic remains, wherever you look there is something often a couple thousand or more years old.
Well I did not leave Carlos in the Hamam. So he is still all intact. Nevertheless he is suffering badly with a furunkel (I do not know the english word) in a sensitive position. So he was in a lot of pain and could not sit on his saddle. But he is a tough guy and keeps pedaling.
We left Aleppo a week or so ago. On a quiet Friday morning with no traffic. This was good as Aleppo is manic but really enjoyable. We went north into the area where you have many roman and early christian remains. They call it the dead cities. You ride through limestone littered fields (I cannot understand how after 1000s years still so many stones are left in the fields) and then suddenly you see these Roman buildings 3 story high often with a cellar and only parts still intact. Beside the modern villages and people farming the same fields used 2000 years ago. The colors are brown and grey with some olive trees strewn between.
We went to the famous cathedral of Saint Simeon (400ad), it was a very undulating landscape but the last 100m up the castle was murderous steep uphill (I hate uphill). We met 2 mountain bikers which had a laugh at me weaving my way up to the church. But at least the tourists arriving in their aircon buses gave us a round of applause and some encouraging words.
San Simeon was good but even better were the 25km downhill to Ain Dara a bronze age city which was inhabited continuously until 1600ad. We met some Kurds (Omar, Mohamend and Mustafa) just before visiting the site and they invited us to have tea and some Pomegranate (Harvest is in full flow). They said we shall drop their name with the caretaker (Abdul Mohamed) of Ain Dara and he will let us sleep there. He did, first offering us a room for GBP7 which Carlos refused as too expensive, but when he understood that we have a tent we were allowed to pitch it with no charge. He even allowed us to use the shower (hot). Then he told us he is going to a dance and if we would like to join. We refused. Suddenly a car approached and it was Omar and Mohamed arriving to see if we have been able to camp and if there friend is catering to our needs. That was very sweet.
The next morning we tried to be as quiet at 5am as possible but the Abdul Mohamed heard us and prepared breakfast for us, also inviting us to have a look at the Museum. There were many of the carved stone fronties from the site stored waiting for conservation.
From Ain Dara we had our first long climb awaiting us 25km up to Saint Simeon. What we rode downhill the day before in 45min took us 2h. But I was surprised it was less hard than I thought (I still hate uphill) Then we went on to some more of the Dead Cities. IT was really tough as you had a great steep downhill just to have to get uphill again. The change of rhythm is a killer. Also it was not a very clear day so the views were somewhat tainted. We nearly decided to go to Turkey to Antioch again. But we decided to explore some more of Syria first. After our usual Falafel Lunch we rode up a valley. In the distance we saw this fabulous greek looking gate up a very very steep hill. Carlos got shiny eyes (he loves uphill) I got week knees, but the main traffic turned left (Yippee) until I saw the steep climb the cars had to do going left. Well quickly it was upon us. I had to climb again (I have a good collection of swearwords I can make use off). It was hard and guess where it brought us to Barad the greek looking gate (actually it is roman and was inscribed as 116ad) We explored the site and it was very beautiful with many lintels inscribed in what looks like latin or aramaic.
Nevertheless we had a big scare. We left the bikes as always somewhere against a big stone or wall. Unfortunately the site was slopping and we could not see the bikes at all time. Luckily we were already on the way back to the bikes when we saw a tractor stopping right beside them and one guy jumping of while the other stayed with running motor on. Carlos sensing danger started shouting at them, dropping the bag and sprinting up hill (He is my superhero). Suddenly the guy on the tractor seemed to notice Carlos and started to gesture that something fell off the tractor. Carlos still does not believe this. But when Carlos got to the bikes they looked untouched. Maybe this was a lucky escape, maybe just a reminder that we have to be more cautious. Further along the road we had a laugh with some locals at a coffee stop in the middle of nowhere and we tried to camp in a olivegrove close to the village of Sardine. Only to be spotted by the local women and asked to come with them home. I had a good time with the girls, Carlos met his first ultraconservative islamist. A police officer in Aleppo, with strong views that Iran is a glorious example of how to have a muslim state. The most shocking thing was the picture he showed us of a hanged kid. I believe it was genuine. He said the kid was a thief and the people of Aleppo hanged him before the police could do anything. It was not a pretty sight. And I do not hope Syria is going starting to implement sharia law like Iran ever.
We went on early the next morning up the hill (steep but not very long) to Qalb Lozeh. THis is another impressive site on the top of the hill. From there on it went up and down up and down up and up. On the way we asked a horse men if he allowes us to make a photo of him and the horse and of course we were invited for tea or coffee. He told us proudly about his son working in Lebanon. On we went up and down up and down until the big downhill (about 500 altitude meters) into the AL Ghab (Orontes river valley). This was spectacular. From there we went on along the valley (nearly on sea level but a mountain range away from the sea). We had a good run and Carlos broke the speed record which is now set at 78km (He was not wearing a helmet). We wanted to make it to the lake on my map close to a power station. At 5pm we were nearly there just to be intercepted by a group of men drinking tea at the roadside (The 3 Abduls). When they heard we wanted to camp they invited us to stay with them. Which we did. After the second cup of Tea I was asked to join the ladies. Cleverly I asked for a Shower first. Carlos was on my heels. The men offered him a Galabiye (typical dress as you can see in London with the Saudis) and I was offered one too. When I came out of the shower I was immediately put into a headscarf too, no choice. The men were with the men and I was taken to the roof by the kids, meanwhile mama was allowing me to wash my clothes in the washing machine. The few was spectacular but it was a very strange conservative family too. However the girls were very beautiful with green blue eyes. Later on we were whisked off to one of the other Abdul house to have dinner. That was truly different and very tasty (Chicken and potatoes and stuffed Aubergine etc).
Then Asia and Ibrahim the two which were only married for 10 days and very happy asked if they could have a photo. I must make sure we can send it to them.
The next morning started with a very very steep climb. They are like the english. You have a hill which is 900m above see about 700m climb what do you do, use switch back or go straight up? Lets go straight up (Yorkshire moor is calling with 33% inclination). After the first quarter Abdul drove past us in his pick up and asked again very kindly if we do not want him to take us to the top, stupid as I am I said no I will ride. (If Carlos wants the hills he has to put up with me being very slow).
Ahh but before 3 funny incidents at the dinner the sister of Abdul came with her husband. She extend us the hand and I greeted her, she turned to Carlos still with her hand outstretched but when Carlos tried to shake it she pulled it back quickly and made a disapproving noise. The guys were like noooo, never touch a woman. Which we know but which until now just did not happen in this extend and Carlos shook hands with many women.
The other incident was when in the morning I went to pick up my clothes I noticed that my bra was missing. So I asked them where it is as it is seen as a insulting piece of clothing to be hidden away from the male eyes I was not surprised not to see it on the cloth line with the T shirts. However I was very surprised when the mother (and after having given birth to 15 children this is to be expected) which would be at least a double D was pulling her dress aside exposing my bra. Her breast were right under her chin. It would have been worth a picture. Well reluctantly she gave it back after a discussion where she made me understand she would like it as a gift. Sorry I do not have enough of them to give them away!
And the third incident was that Carlos took off his ring during the shower and forgot to put it back on. When we came back to the room the ring was not there and could not be found. He was wondering if to ask about it but we did not want to make a scandal and get one of the kids punished, so we kept quiet. But Carlos was upset about it. The next morning we were ready to leave and Carlos suddenly spotted something shinny hidden behind the bottles of pickled peppers. Guess what it was the ring and it looked like to be hidden away...
Back to my ride. I managed the hill, half way up Carlos took the food bag of me and I just managed. We went on through undulating hills up to AL Barad and on to Serjilla. Some more of the dead cities. In Serjilla we pitched our tent right at the entrance overlooking the ruins it was spectacular. But on this day we only managed 24km. The next day we went ondownhill towards the Orontes Valley again to see Apamea a roman site. The colonnaded way is spectacular. We then went back up the Valley of El Ghab which we left the day before. But we rode on the other side of the Valley and what a difference! The woman were not covered, HAir showing, shoulders showing, lipstick no headscarfes it was like a different world.
Carlos and I had our first argument (yes Lalo we argue less than at home). He could not stop going on about the next big hill 1500m this time which he wanted to ride the steep road up, on and on he went and I believed he realised that me and hills are not going well together by now. So I told him to shut up about it and he got upset and stopped talking. Burra as I am I did shut up too and so we missed the camp side. When it got dark we finally had to talk (also the turn uphill point got really close) we asked at a house for water and got invited. People do not understand that one would like to stay in a tent so they immediately ask you to sleep at there place. All the family was very westernly dressed, men and women sitting on chairs on the Veranda with the kids around having a conversation (just like in the west) when the first wife came the husband got up and greeted her she shook hands with everybody including Carlos (kisses for me). Kids talked to grownups and women sat beside men etc. And this was 12km away in the same Valley just on the other side. I do not think that my words describe the cultural difference enought.
We went to bed early and rose before sunrise. 2km later the 25km long climb started alla straight up again! I was not happy And my left pedal on top of that started to have a movement which Carlos cannot fix (Paul why do you not come and join us I need a mechanic who understands bikes!)
Carlos went on and on about: why do we not stop a truck and you get on it and wait on the top. So I new I am to slow and taking the joy out of his hill riding. But he wants the steep hills (There was a route albeit a little longer easier on the hills) he will have to live with a snail paced girlfriend. I made the 25km. The first 14km where murderous, the next few were nearly flat and then there was the top. Sadly the valley was covered in a typ of mist maybe from the burnings maybe because winter is close (with 35degrees still).
At the top I put my foot down and we went and had houmus in the restaurant. When we looked down we saw that there is another road up from the 7km point. Luckily we did not know at the bottom. I would not have been able to ride it, Carlos would have loved it. IT was straight up for about 700 altitude meters. The cars coming up were crawling.
Well next time I take the lorry and Carlos can ride it.
On the down hill we were just swooping around a corner in the first bigger village when I spotted a familiar face. Breaks were smoking and I stopped to meet Claude the french guy from Aleppo which kindly pointed out so many of Syrians highlights to us. I was so surprised I did not even ask him about his trip to the Kurds of the north east (boardering the Iraq turkish boarder). I would have loved to hear about it. He was on foot going up to the mountain we just rode over. I hope he had a great time and I also hope we will met again!
THank you Claude our Breton.
On the way down we stopped at Saladins Castle.
An impressive site worth the step decent into the Valley and the hard climb up to it. The heat was oppressive and only made bearable by the oak and pine forest in the area. Our first forest in Syria stretching nearly all the way to Lattakia. Entering Lattakia was not great. We arrived from the SOuth East and had to ride through the rush hour traffic. However Mohamed from the Samar hotel was very understanding that we do not want to carry our bikes up to the second floor and accommodated us as low down as possible. After the hot shower and putting on the washing we explored famous liberal Lattakia.
I am still not impressed. OK the people are dressing like in the west and girls and boys can be seen sitting beside each other and having conversations but the town itself is just not special considering that you have the sea right beside you.
So today we went to Ugarit where the first Alphabet was invented. That was very nice even though it is very sticky. We forfeit a bath in the sea as the beaches we passed looked litter strewn.
We then checked on the bikes and had a siesta. Now we are preparing for Carlitos birthday tomorrow. He will stop being my toyboy and catch up with me again for another 345 days. He wants to camp at a beach and I want to see another of the big Castles we will also be riding about 80km along the coast.
Well guys I hope we are notboring you to much.
IF you do not know where to go on your next holidays come to Syria it is worth it.
My best wishes to all of you and I hope you are having as good weather as we have!
We have found a hacker who gave us access to the blog. So we are able to post photos again.
We we have travelled already over 1000km by bike. The longest day so far was 120km the shortest about 24km. We saw loads of historic remains, wherever you look there is something often a couple thousand or more years old.
Well I did not leave Carlos in the Hamam. So he is still all intact. Nevertheless he is suffering badly with a furunkel (I do not know the english word) in a sensitive position. So he was in a lot of pain and could not sit on his saddle. But he is a tough guy and keeps pedaling.
We left Aleppo a week or so ago. On a quiet Friday morning with no traffic. This was good as Aleppo is manic but really enjoyable. We went north into the area where you have many roman and early christian remains. They call it the dead cities. You ride through limestone littered fields (I cannot understand how after 1000s years still so many stones are left in the fields) and then suddenly you see these Roman buildings 3 story high often with a cellar and only parts still intact. Beside the modern villages and people farming the same fields used 2000 years ago. The colors are brown and grey with some olive trees strewn between.
We went to the famous cathedral of Saint Simeon (400ad), it was a very undulating landscape but the last 100m up the castle was murderous steep uphill (I hate uphill). We met 2 mountain bikers which had a laugh at me weaving my way up to the church. But at least the tourists arriving in their aircon buses gave us a round of applause and some encouraging words.
From Ain Dara we had our first long climb awaiting us 25km up to Saint Simeon. What we rode downhill the day before in 45min took us 2h. But I was surprised it was less hard than I thought (I still hate uphill) Then we went on to some more of the Dead Cities. IT was really tough as you had a great steep downhill just to have to get uphill again. The change of rhythm is a killer. Also it was not a very clear day so the views were somewhat tainted. We nearly decided to go to Turkey to Antioch again. But we decided to explore some more of Syria first. After our usual Falafel Lunch we rode up a valley. In the distance we saw this fabulous greek looking gate up a very very steep hill. Carlos got shiny eyes (he loves uphill) I got week knees, but the main traffic turned left (Yippee) until I saw the steep climb the cars had to do going left. Well quickly it was upon us. I had to climb again (I have a good collection of swearwords I can make use off). It was hard and guess where it brought us to Barad the greek looking gate (actually it is roman and was inscribed as 116ad) We explored the site and it was very beautiful with many lintels inscribed in what looks like latin or aramaic.
We went on early the next morning up the hill (steep but not very long) to Qalb Lozeh. THis is another impressive site on the top of the hill. From there on it went up and down up and down up and up. On the way we asked a horse men if he allowes us to make a photo of him and the horse and of course we were invited for tea or coffee. He told us proudly about his son working in Lebanon. On we went up and down up and down until the big downhill (about 500 altitude meters) into the AL Ghab (Orontes river valley). This was spectacular. From there we went on along the valley (nearly on sea level but a mountain range away from the sea). We had a good run and Carlos broke the speed record which is now set at 78km (He was not wearing a helmet). We wanted to make it to the lake on my map close to a power station. At 5pm we were nearly there just to be intercepted by a group of men drinking tea at the roadside (The 3 Abduls). When they heard we wanted to camp they invited us to stay with them. Which we did. After the second cup of Tea I was asked to join the ladies. Cleverly I asked for a Shower first. Carlos was on my heels. The men offered him a Galabiye (typical dress as you can see in London with the Saudis) and I was offered one too. When I came out of the shower I was immediately put into a headscarf too, no choice. The men were with the men and I was taken to the roof by the kids, meanwhile mama was allowing me to wash my clothes in the washing machine. The few was spectacular but it was a very strange conservative family too. However the girls were very beautiful with green blue eyes. Later on we were whisked off to one of the other Abdul house to have dinner. That was truly different and very tasty (Chicken and potatoes and stuffed Aubergine etc).
Then Asia and Ibrahim the two which were only married for 10 days and very happy asked if they could have a photo. I must make sure we can send it to them.
The next morning started with a very very steep climb. They are like the english. You have a hill which is 900m above see about 700m climb what do you do, use switch back or go straight up? Lets go straight up (Yorkshire moor is calling with 33% inclination). After the first quarter Abdul drove past us in his pick up and asked again very kindly if we do not want him to take us to the top, stupid as I am I said no I will ride. (If Carlos wants the hills he has to put up with me being very slow).
Ahh but before 3 funny incidents at the dinner the sister of Abdul came with her husband. She extend us the hand and I greeted her, she turned to Carlos still with her hand outstretched but when Carlos tried to shake it she pulled it back quickly and made a disapproving noise. The guys were like noooo, never touch a woman. Which we know but which until now just did not happen in this extend and Carlos shook hands with many women.
The other incident was when in the morning I went to pick up my clothes I noticed that my bra was missing. So I asked them where it is as it is seen as a insulting piece of clothing to be hidden away from the male eyes I was not surprised not to see it on the cloth line with the T shirts. However I was very surprised when the mother (and after having given birth to 15 children this is to be expected) which would be at least a double D was pulling her dress aside exposing my bra. Her breast were right under her chin. It would have been worth a picture. Well reluctantly she gave it back after a discussion where she made me understand she would like it as a gift. Sorry I do not have enough of them to give them away!
And the third incident was that Carlos took off his ring during the shower and forgot to put it back on. When we came back to the room the ring was not there and could not be found. He was wondering if to ask about it but we did not want to make a scandal and get one of the kids punished, so we kept quiet. But Carlos was upset about it. The next morning we were ready to leave and Carlos suddenly spotted something shinny hidden behind the bottles of pickled peppers. Guess what it was the ring and it looked like to be hidden away...
Back to my ride. I managed the hill, half way up Carlos took the food bag of me and I just managed. We went on through undulating hills up to AL Barad and on to Serjilla. Some more of the dead cities. In Serjilla we pitched our tent right at the entrance overlooking the ruins it was spectacular. But on this day we only managed 24km. The next day we went ondownhill towards the Orontes Valley again to see Apamea a roman site. The colonnaded way is spectacular. We then went back up the Valley of El Ghab which we left the day before. But we rode on the other side of the Valley and what a difference! The woman were not covered, HAir showing, shoulders showing, lipstick no headscarfes it was like a different world.
Carlos and I had our first argument (yes Lalo we argue less than at home). He could not stop going on about the next big hill 1500m this time which he wanted to ride the steep road up, on and on he went and I believed he realised that me and hills are not going well together by now. So I told him to shut up about it and he got upset and stopped talking. Burra as I am I did shut up too and so we missed the camp side. When it got dark we finally had to talk (also the turn uphill point got really close) we asked at a house for water and got invited. People do not understand that one would like to stay in a tent so they immediately ask you to sleep at there place. All the family was very westernly dressed, men and women sitting on chairs on the Veranda with the kids around having a conversation (just like in the west) when the first wife came the husband got up and greeted her she shook hands with everybody including Carlos (kisses for me). Kids talked to grownups and women sat beside men etc. And this was 12km away in the same Valley just on the other side. I do not think that my words describe the cultural difference enought.
We went to bed early and rose before sunrise. 2km later the 25km long climb started alla straight up again! I was not happy And my left pedal on top of that started to have a movement which Carlos cannot fix (Paul why do you not come and join us I need a mechanic who understands bikes!)
Carlos went on and on about: why do we not stop a truck and you get on it and wait on the top. So I new I am to slow and taking the joy out of his hill riding. But he wants the steep hills (There was a route albeit a little longer easier on the hills) he will have to live with a snail paced girlfriend. I made the 25km. The first 14km where murderous, the next few were nearly flat and then there was the top. Sadly the valley was covered in a typ of mist maybe from the burnings maybe because winter is close (with 35degrees still).
At the top I put my foot down and we went and had houmus in the restaurant. When we looked down we saw that there is another road up from the 7km point. Luckily we did not know at the bottom. I would not have been able to ride it, Carlos would have loved it. IT was straight up for about 700 altitude meters. The cars coming up were crawling.
Well next time I take the lorry and Carlos can ride it.
On the down hill we were just swooping around a corner in the first bigger village when I spotted a familiar face. Breaks were smoking and I stopped to meet Claude the french guy from Aleppo which kindly pointed out so many of Syrians highlights to us. I was so surprised I did not even ask him about his trip to the Kurds of the north east (boardering the Iraq turkish boarder). I would have loved to hear about it. He was on foot going up to the mountain we just rode over. I hope he had a great time and I also hope we will met again!
THank you Claude our Breton.
On the way down we stopped at Saladins Castle.
I am still not impressed. OK the people are dressing like in the west and girls and boys can be seen sitting beside each other and having conversations but the town itself is just not special considering that you have the sea right beside you.
So today we went to Ugarit where the first Alphabet was invented. That was very nice even though it is very sticky. We forfeit a bath in the sea as the beaches we passed looked litter strewn.
We then checked on the bikes and had a siesta. Now we are preparing for Carlitos birthday tomorrow. He will stop being my toyboy and catch up with me again for another 345 days. He wants to camp at a beach and I want to see another of the big Castles we will also be riding about 80km along the coast.
Well guys I hope we are notboring you to much.
IF you do not know where to go on your next holidays come to Syria it is worth it.
My best wishes to all of you and I hope you are having as good weather as we have!
 |
| My ever diminuishing view of Syria |
 |
| For Paula |
Aleppo hasta Latakia
Hola a tod@s, todavia estamos vivos aunque este calor pronto nos va a matar, je,je!!
Despues de dejar Alepo nos dirigimos al norte donde tendriamos nuestro primer contacto con las montanhas. Nuestro destino era Aindara haciendo una parada en el castillo de San Simeon. Para llevar alli tuvimos que subir un puerto de 4km que fue el entrante para lo que nos esperaba en los proximos dias.
Dejar atras la ciudad siempre me gusta. Siempre intentamos coger carreteras secundarias y eso nos permite visitar pequenhos pueblos y aldeas donde podemos observar Siria desde adentro. En nuestro viaje hasta ahora hemos recorrido siria de Este a Oeste y la verdad que se observan diferencias en la gente. Hay sitios, como Dera Zor, que son mas conservadores y donde la mayoria de las mujeres van casi totalmente cubiertas mientras en otros la apariencia es Europea. La diferencia mas sorprendente la notamos unos dias atras. El Lunes18 llegabamos de Norte a Sur por le valle de Al Ghab. Era tarde y paramos a pedir agua a unos hombres que estaban tomando te a la puerta de su casa. Cuando le dijimos que queriamos acampar cerca de alli nos invitaron a dormir en su casa. De seis hombres tres se llamaban Abdul (incluido el duenho de la casa). Nos duchamos y tanto a mi como a Barbara nos dieron para vestir un Galabiye y a Barbara incluso le cubrieron el pelo completamente. La familia fue de los mas amable con nosotros sin embargo la diferencia de hombres con mujeres era muy marcada. Barbara se fue con las mujeres mientras yo me quede tomando te y viendo como los hombres jugaban a un juego tradicional arabe (creo que es Kija pero no estoy seguro). Cuando estabamos cenando llego la hermana de Abdul y se dirijio a Barbara y la saludo. Normalmente yo espero a que la mujer se acerque a saludarme pero hasta ahora siempre me habian dado la mano sin ningun problema. Cuando se giro hacia mi extendi mi mano para saludarla y esta mujer me dijo con cara de asustada - no, no!! El sobrino entonces me dijo que el islam prohibe que la mujer toque al hombre.
Yo me habia olvidado mi anillo en la ducha y a la noche cuando fuy a buscarlo no pude encontrarlo. No lo podia creer, era imposible que me quitaran. Decidi no decir nada porque sabia que si no seria un autentico drama. A la manhana siguiente antes de salir estaba limpiandome los dientes cuando de repente vi algo brillar detras de unas botellas. Movi las botellas y detras estaba mi anillo, me alegre mucho. Estaba claro que no me lo habian cogino sin mas, eso seria robo. Sin embargo alguien lo puso alli detras y si yo no lo hubiese encontrado hubiese sido como que me lo olvide -oops se lo ha olvidado, mala suerte-
Otro detalle 'simpatico' le paso a Barbara. Teniamos bastante ropa sucia y esta gente nos dijo que tenian lavadora por lo que no era un problema lavarla. Al dia siguiente cuando Barbara recogio la ropa se puso a b uscar su sujetador ya que lo necesitaba para el dia. Se dio cuenta que no estaba alli por lo que fue a preguntar a la madre si sabia donde podia estar. Ella le ensenho su hombro mostrandole que lo tenia puesto. Era increible, una senhora con unos pechos enormes (habia tenido 10 hijos y aun daba pecho a uno de ellos y usaria como una talla XL) estaba con un sujetador de talla S. Los pechos le llegaban a la garganta, no se ni como podia respirar. Le pidio a Barbara si podia quedarse con el pero la verdad que era imposible asi que el detalle se quedo en eso.
El miercoles 20 despues de visitar Sirjilla y Al Barha nos dirigimos hacia Latakia. Ese dia tuvimos que subir parte del mismo valle (Al Ghab) de sur a norte. Acabamos durmiento a pie de la subida que nos llevaria a Latakia. Mas o menos estabamos a la misma altura de la casa de Abdul pero en el otro lado del valle (unos 12km nos separaban). La situacion fue exactamente igual. Paramos a pedir agua y acabaron invitandonos a dormir en su casa. Esta familia era totalmente diferente. Las mujeres me saludaron dandome la mano sin ningun tipo de problema. Las mujeres no se cubrian el pelo y la mayoria vestian pantalones. Algunas de las hijas incluso con camisetas de asas lo que es bastante raro aqui. Era increible que en una distancia de solo 12 km existiese un contraste tan grande.
La carretera a Latakia nos deparaba la subida mas dura de nuestro viaje. Teniamos que subir unos 25km por lo que ese dia salimos bien temprano ( a las 6:30 am) Los primeros 12 km fueron realmente duros con rampas de unos 18% de desnivel que con los 25kg de carga que llevo se me hicieron durisimos. Despues de 3 horas llegamos a la cima donde habia un restaurante con unas vistas increibles del valle, pena que la visivilidad era muy baja. Nos dimos cuenta que otra carretera subia desde el mismo sitio hasta donde estabamos. Esta subida era mucho mas corta unos 12km por lo que os podeis imaginar el desnivel que tendria, el Angliru de Siria.
Subir fue duro pero la bajada nos llevaria hasta Latakia. El descenso fue muy divertido y alcanzamos la velocidad de 78km/h. Sin embargo aun tuvimos que subir unos 2km tambien muy duros ya que queriamos visitar el Castillo de Saladin, un castillo realmente hermoso en un lugar muy pintoresco.
Hasta ahora todo esta marchando muy bien. Las bicis estan respondiendo (aunque los radios de la rueda de atras se me aflojan y tengo que sacar mis dotes de mecanico) y nosotros no estamos mal. Bueno eso no es del todo cierto ya que yo estoy sufriendo por culpa de un furunculo que el ultimo dia casi no me permitia sentarme en la bici pero hoy estoy mucho mejor. Lo estamos pasando bien y tenemos un moreno a trozos que no veas.
Ahora nos dirigiremos a el Libano y espero que podamos escribir un poco mas amenudo.
Un saludo y hasta pronto
Despues de dejar Alepo nos dirigimos al norte donde tendriamos nuestro primer contacto con las montanhas. Nuestro destino era Aindara haciendo una parada en el castillo de San Simeon. Para llevar alli tuvimos que subir un puerto de 4km que fue el entrante para lo que nos esperaba en los proximos dias.
Dejar atras la ciudad siempre me gusta. Siempre intentamos coger carreteras secundarias y eso nos permite visitar pequenhos pueblos y aldeas donde podemos observar Siria desde adentro. En nuestro viaje hasta ahora hemos recorrido siria de Este a Oeste y la verdad que se observan diferencias en la gente. Hay sitios, como Dera Zor, que son mas conservadores y donde la mayoria de las mujeres van casi totalmente cubiertas mientras en otros la apariencia es Europea. La diferencia mas sorprendente la notamos unos dias atras. El Lunes18 llegabamos de Norte a Sur por le valle de Al Ghab. Era tarde y paramos a pedir agua a unos hombres que estaban tomando te a la puerta de su casa. Cuando le dijimos que queriamos acampar cerca de alli nos invitaron a dormir en su casa. De seis hombres tres se llamaban Abdul (incluido el duenho de la casa). Nos duchamos y tanto a mi como a Barbara nos dieron para vestir un Galabiye y a Barbara incluso le cubrieron el pelo completamente. La familia fue de los mas amable con nosotros sin embargo la diferencia de hombres con mujeres era muy marcada. Barbara se fue con las mujeres mientras yo me quede tomando te y viendo como los hombres jugaban a un juego tradicional arabe (creo que es Kija pero no estoy seguro). Cuando estabamos cenando llego la hermana de Abdul y se dirijio a Barbara y la saludo. Normalmente yo espero a que la mujer se acerque a saludarme pero hasta ahora siempre me habian dado la mano sin ningun problema. Cuando se giro hacia mi extendi mi mano para saludarla y esta mujer me dijo con cara de asustada - no, no!! El sobrino entonces me dijo que el islam prohibe que la mujer toque al hombre.
Yo me habia olvidado mi anillo en la ducha y a la noche cuando fuy a buscarlo no pude encontrarlo. No lo podia creer, era imposible que me quitaran. Decidi no decir nada porque sabia que si no seria un autentico drama. A la manhana siguiente antes de salir estaba limpiandome los dientes cuando de repente vi algo brillar detras de unas botellas. Movi las botellas y detras estaba mi anillo, me alegre mucho. Estaba claro que no me lo habian cogino sin mas, eso seria robo. Sin embargo alguien lo puso alli detras y si yo no lo hubiese encontrado hubiese sido como que me lo olvide -oops se lo ha olvidado, mala suerte-
Otro detalle 'simpatico' le paso a Barbara. Teniamos bastante ropa sucia y esta gente nos dijo que tenian lavadora por lo que no era un problema lavarla. Al dia siguiente cuando Barbara recogio la ropa se puso a b uscar su sujetador ya que lo necesitaba para el dia. Se dio cuenta que no estaba alli por lo que fue a preguntar a la madre si sabia donde podia estar. Ella le ensenho su hombro mostrandole que lo tenia puesto. Era increible, una senhora con unos pechos enormes (habia tenido 10 hijos y aun daba pecho a uno de ellos y usaria como una talla XL) estaba con un sujetador de talla S. Los pechos le llegaban a la garganta, no se ni como podia respirar. Le pidio a Barbara si podia quedarse con el pero la verdad que era imposible asi que el detalle se quedo en eso.
El miercoles 20 despues de visitar Sirjilla y Al Barha nos dirigimos hacia Latakia. Ese dia tuvimos que subir parte del mismo valle (Al Ghab) de sur a norte. Acabamos durmiento a pie de la subida que nos llevaria a Latakia. Mas o menos estabamos a la misma altura de la casa de Abdul pero en el otro lado del valle (unos 12km nos separaban). La situacion fue exactamente igual. Paramos a pedir agua y acabaron invitandonos a dormir en su casa. Esta familia era totalmente diferente. Las mujeres me saludaron dandome la mano sin ningun tipo de problema. Las mujeres no se cubrian el pelo y la mayoria vestian pantalones. Algunas de las hijas incluso con camisetas de asas lo que es bastante raro aqui. Era increible que en una distancia de solo 12 km existiese un contraste tan grande.
La carretera a Latakia nos deparaba la subida mas dura de nuestro viaje. Teniamos que subir unos 25km por lo que ese dia salimos bien temprano ( a las 6:30 am) Los primeros 12 km fueron realmente duros con rampas de unos 18% de desnivel que con los 25kg de carga que llevo se me hicieron durisimos. Despues de 3 horas llegamos a la cima donde habia un restaurante con unas vistas increibles del valle, pena que la visivilidad era muy baja. Nos dimos cuenta que otra carretera subia desde el mismo sitio hasta donde estabamos. Esta subida era mucho mas corta unos 12km por lo que os podeis imaginar el desnivel que tendria, el Angliru de Siria.
Subir fue duro pero la bajada nos llevaria hasta Latakia. El descenso fue muy divertido y alcanzamos la velocidad de 78km/h. Sin embargo aun tuvimos que subir unos 2km tambien muy duros ya que queriamos visitar el Castillo de Saladin, un castillo realmente hermoso en un lugar muy pintoresco.
Hasta ahora todo esta marchando muy bien. Las bicis estan respondiendo (aunque los radios de la rueda de atras se me aflojan y tengo que sacar mis dotes de mecanico) y nosotros no estamos mal. Bueno eso no es del todo cierto ya que yo estoy sufriendo por culpa de un furunculo que el ultimo dia casi no me permitia sentarme en la bici pero hoy estoy mucho mejor. Lo estamos pasando bien y tenemos un moreno a trozos que no veas.
Ahora nos dirigiremos a el Libano y espero que podamos escribir un poco mas amenudo.
Un saludo y hasta pronto
Saturday, 16 October 2010
Deir al Zoor to Aleppo in english
Dear Friends we were for over a week without internet access. THis may have been very nice for us but you were not able to follow our travels.
Last time we wrote we were in the North East close to the Iraqi boarder celebrating my birthday. We left Deir al Zoor to travel along the Euphrates River (The River from Paradise) towards the northwest and we did some more serious cycling.
The first day we left at sunrise, with the call of the Muezzin ringing in our ears and little traffic on the road. It was hazy and a little fresher than the previous days which was very convenient. THe goal was the arceological site of Zalabiye/Halabiye. Roman cities along the river. Cycling was going good. At least for me like required by a good wife in the arabic world I was always behind Carlos, following closeby but no touching. This may have had more to do with the prevailing headwind however. We managed teh 70km to the site by midday with some stops for food along the way. People again were very friendly. Normally when you stop to drink something you have a chat and often people do not accept that you pay for the food. ALong the River the women were having very special headcovers, it did not look like Saudi Arabia and it seemed that they had quite a lot of freedom when it came to treating the men. More equal than I would have imagined. However in the fields you could mainly see woman doing the hard work (as always).
The ruins were spectacular. Only by now it was very very hot. We had to cross a bridge out of sleepers with the bike we sounded like a loaded truck ratratrat tata. It was fun but Carlos was having a go at me because I went to fast and he was worried about our iron mules (bikes). Anyhow they survived. Then we were intercepted by the police. After handing over our Passports and answering the question where we are from and where we started this morning we went along to inspect the site. Carlos got very grumpy as the policeman was shadowing us. This was motivation enough for him to make the steep climb up to the Roman keep, 3 stories high towering 100m above the River. We spent a good couple hours between eating our pomeganates and exploring, meanwhile the bikes and bags rested in the middle of the site about 500m from us (Theft is incredible rare).
Then we went down to decide what we will do. Sitting beside the Euphrates in the shade the policemen parked right beside us so no chance for a swim for me. By that time I got anoyed and Carlos could not be bothered anymore.
Then the ticketcollector showed up. His english was very good. SO he explained that we are being given special treatment by the police to make sure we are all right and the joking started. We planned to camp but had not yet bought gas. SO we asked if they would not be willing to sell us some at the police station. First they did not understand why we need Gas but then they gave us a litre fro free. So we said good bye and off we went along the river. It was ideal camping ground except we did not have enough drinking water. SO we decided to stop at the next village et water and find a place, by now it was well after 3pm. Arriving at the village we noticed the policemen was following us by car. He stopped an payed our drinks. So on we went. He followed us for at least an hour. Then he got involved in a minor accident and we went on. We were looking for a bridg crossing back over the Euphrates so we stopped and asked and had a discussion with the locals about which football team is better Barca or Madrid (Barca won). When we went on we saw the policemen again but this time we said a final good bye.
The only problem was by now we were far from the River and in the middle of poblations. So just before sunset we stopped at a shop asking if it would be possible to pitch our tent. The people were not very friendly but a gut who arrived at the shop to buy things spoke some english and said no we cannot camp but we can sleep in his house. Carlos wanted to refuse but I was very happy to accept so we stayed wih Farrin and his second wife for the evening. She came back from Cotton picking and had to immediately prepare dinner for us, however Farrin swept all the floors for our arrival. He is a postmaster and it was very nice to be in his home. I slept like an angel and had a lovely dinner and breakfast with them. IT was very kind and good. And I think the best what could have happend after 94km on the bike.
The next day we left early again after a good breakfast. We were stopped several times on the way, given a lavish meal at lunch. Carlos kept on batteling against the wind and I followed coyly behind in his cycle tracks.
Apart from the people and passing the city of Raqqah where we took the train 5 days earlier to Deir al Zoor the day was hard cycling beautiflul countryside and not a lot more. In the evening we decided to ask for water at a car repair shop. I was suddenly grabbed by the mother, dragged off my bike and along into her house. You sleep here tonight. Well I saw Carlos 3h later. I was given tea and dinner in the meantime and having a lot of fun with Fatima and the girls who spoke some english. Carlos was sitting with the men and it seemed they had very serious conversations (I had a lot of fun I can tell you) We stayed seperated and the girls shutt the door the courtains and started to dance. That was very special! Thank you.
Then I was being told that Carlos is in bed and I have to join him fot the night. So off I went. We got the big room so daddy Hussein slept outside.
Another day with only 94km in my leggs (which were a little wobbly).
The next morning I was invited to pick Olives. WHile we did so Carlos sat in good fashion with the men and drank tea. (He says he cutt some trees...).
We left at midday and it was very hot. We felt very tired and were very slow. However this time I was feeling a bit better than Carlos so he was taking advantage of my wind shadow.
20km down the road a motor cyclist stopped beside us. I was a little warry as I just had my first disrespectful encounter in Syria. SOme guys on the motorbike passed by, coming close to touch my bum. This was so shocking in a culture where men do not touch women even in the most croweded of places that I had a go at them in English and when they turned back I used not only sign language but a good amount of spitt to tell them what I thought. Carlos was stunned going like what happend, what happend?
Well anyway now I have even the insults in Arabic to use for next time!
Anyhow so this guy stopped beside us and in excellent english invited us to stay in his home. After following him through half the city we stopped at his home. We were being shoed into the shower, washed our clothes and when I came out I was imediately given a dress of w'hatma the wife of the brother. Ibrahim and his family were very generous. WE had a feast with lamb meat a very social eveing with friends and family and deceided t o stay 2 nights with them. Ibrahim is a very interesting guy. He writes Qat al arabee (I have no idea how to spell this) which is traditional religious writing. I think he would like to have a different live and other oportunities than what he has, as so many of the younger people here.
The next day we went to Resafa a roman and early christian city. There we were taken by AMid one of the local caretakers to explore the site. It was great. The water storage is at least 30m high and 15m wide underground and they had 3 of them. You can also still see some of the early wall paintings of teh Church which is about 1500 years old. Plus the huge wall around the city. This place was in the middle of the desert. Getting there and back was funny as we hitch hiked. Then Carlos had a shave in the town and we met up with some of Ibrahims friends in AL Thawra. We had a lovely eveining. Ibrahim did not want us to leave but we have too. As we left just after sunrise his sister in law W'hatma served us breakfast, we left some coins with his brother who collects them and agreed with Ibrahim that he catches up at the Castle Jabaar at the Euphrates in a few hours maybe. We did not believe he will make it. SO we left riding over the 5km long dam spanning the Euphrates. THen up the hill and on to the Qalaat. we did the 35km in about 1.5h not bad as a start. Then we visited the Castle which was dissapointing and went on to have a dip in the Euphrates which was splendid. Then we went a little off road with the bikes as I tried to avoid a big hill. Well it was a mistake as it was much harder my way. And when we came up at the raod again who was waiting for us? Ibrahim! He said he is waiting for over a hour as he was not able to follow us on his motorcycle. I was really sad that we lost 1h with him. So we went to the next village sat down and had a drink. When it was finally time to say good by some tears flowed. But before two older guys stopped at the village. They had been fishing at the River and spoke very good english. ONe was a Goldtrader from Aleppo. He was on his motorcycle saying it will take him 2h to get home to Aleppo (150km) we said it will take us 2 days.
Well off we went, into the biggest dust storm so far. The wind nearly blew us off teh bikes. IT was ver y unpleasant and without Carlos I would not have been able to pedal forwards a bit. This was like this for the rest of the day. WE only managed another 20km in 4h. It was real desert and the first time that the peope were a little reserved.
We pitched our tent that night and hoped that the next morning the wind will stop. Dinner should not have been a problem as we had gas from the policemen and our stove is really good, except no hot dinner that night. THe gas had so much oil in it not even my Wisperlight was able to light it. Luckily we had a tin of Sardines adn some bread with us.
The next morning was bright and clear. We advanced with no difficulties to arrive at the other dam to cross over the Euphrates again. Just before the dam we were stopped by a motorcyclist who tried to tell us something about a site we need to see. Well he led us into a forest to Yusuf Basha which unfortunately is flooded by the waters of the dam.
After an hour doing rounds we were rescuede by another local and taken back to the village where he tried to explain something about Australia in the South and Spain in the north. Fine whatever we did not understand. So we asked for Fallafel and had lunch. Suddenly a guy showed up and spoke to us in english. The usual questions and the he invited us to the local school for some tea and a chat. WHich we went along with. At the School Carlos was still just wearing his cycling shorts I had put on my trousers a long time ago, Ganehm the guy told Carlos that he should cover his legs that it is offensive even for a man to show his knees. Well off Carlos went to get his trousers. Ganehm was teh head of school, a muezzin and very educated. He told us that the village has been flooded but that there is another side in the south where a Australian team is excavating some caves and in the north a spanish team is working. He invited us to stay in his village so we can go and explor the site. He gave us his fphone number so we can call him if we wanted to stay. WE went off to explore the site where we stayed 4h. The site is called Khalid Jebel and it is a greek hill fortress with temple and many many huge caves below where people lived. Some of the caves have collapsed but to see them is still incredible impressive.
Then we went to stay at Ganehms. His village was very pretty. He is a very traditionalist man and it was the first time we were not immediately invited to have a shower. Instead his kind wife had the dinner of fish from the Euphrates ready. Then we had some serious discussion all without his wife and kids present. I was then called into the wifes livingroom where I stayed with them and the children (what and when they ate I have no idea and it made me fell bad). After breakfast the next day we left for Qalaat Najim which we reached in about 2h. Some raods were unpaved and we went through really remote villages, it was stunning! Castle Najim was worth it. The location and remains are giving a great impression of Arab military constructions. One of the local men gave us a tour. His english was non existent and it was a little annoying. They kept asking if we would eat at their place but I did just want to swim in the River, do laundry (in the river) and clean my stove. However we felt obliged to pay him something for his guiding which we did. Obviously we overpaid him. He was so happy. He brought us to a good spot to swim and the said come you must eat at my home I will not charge you for it. SO we did. The rest of the afternoon we spent at the river where we met a swiss guy swimming. We then pitched the tent and a Syrian family visiting the Castle came to have a look and we had some laughes with them. THen the guide came and said you cannot sleep here you must come to my house. We told him that it would make us very happy to sleep in our tent under the stars and he did understand after saying we need to have breakfast with him.
It was incredible peaceful apart from the mosquitos.
The next morning we waived the invitation for breakfast and pushed on to get the 120km to Allepo. THere was less wind but the side road was very ondulated and really got into the legs. SO we decided to get onto the big road and to ride on the hard shoulder. Very good decision. After lunch we were riding uphill when suddenly we saw a cyclist (and he looked very fit (like Contador)) passed us taking advantage of the slippstream of a truck. Of course he did not stop. Carlos was all happiness that such a thing exists in Syria. 10km later the cyclist came riding back to us. He is called Jihadd al Sihabi and he is syrien champion. Insh'alla one day we will see him in the Tour the france.
Unfortunately his english was very limited but we road together for about 15km. He was fair and adjusted to our pace. while riding with him we overtook a car parked on the hard shoulder when suddenly we heard Qalaat Jabaar fishing.... It was the Gold trader. WE were so surprised that we did not even stop. Which we regret deeply as this would have been very nice....
Then we Jidahh had to abandon us and we made our entrance to Aleppo, 4.5milion inhabitants. We thought it may be better not to enter on teh main road so we took a side road. What an error. 2 lanes no hard shoulder and trucks and busses ruttling past every 2 seconds not giving you any space to ride. London traffic is peanuts compared. It was very scary. But we survived. We even got to the place where the hotels are witout much problems.
We found somewhere to sleep not to scruffy even though Carlos complained about its price (after sleeping for free so long anything seems expensive).
In the lobby some guys were talking about a concert in the throne room of the Citadel. SO we decided to go there as this is a once in a livetime experience. WE looked gruffy compared to the syrian high society. The entrance was great the room highly decorated with painings and inlays. The concert was ok but to see the people was facinating. I had a very nice chat with a syrian lady and her son which kindly translated the Arabic Palaver for me. They lived in Germany for a long time and had no traceable accent in there german. We also met the Swiss swimmer from the Qalaat and his syrien friends again. Nevertheless after 118km on the bike only a good nights sleep was attractive.
The ext morning we immersed ourself very tiredly into the Souqh. What an experience. I wish I could spend money here. We also visited the Christian quarters which is as charming but much quieter and the Citadel (again by daylight) ONly theHamam and the museum is missing. But tomorrow we will be going off again. This means most likely a week without internet. ALso we are not able to upload photos to our blogg as Syria does not give us access to the blogg. WE will have to wait until Lebanon I guess or we need to find another place like FLickr for the photos. WE are also unable to access Facebook.
By the way we met up with Brkl again the lad from our first day in Syria from Raqqah. He showed us the huge Aleppo university.
I hope you all are planning that the next holiday is bringing you to Syria!
It is worth it.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)