Deir al Zoor to Aleppo in english

Dear Friends we were for over a week without internet access. THis may have been very nice for us but you were not able to follow our travels.

Last time we wrote we were in the North East close to the Iraqi boarder celebrating my birthday.  We left Deir al Zoor to travel along the Euphrates River (The River from Paradise) towards the northwest and we did some more serious cycling.

The first day we left at sunrise, with the call of the Muezzin ringing in our ears and little traffic on the road. It was hazy and a little fresher than the previous days which was very convenient. THe goal was the arceological site of Zalabiye/Halabiye. Roman cities along the river. Cycling was going good. At least for me like required by a good wife in the arabic world I was always behind Carlos, following closeby but no touching. This may have had more to do with the prevailing headwind however. We managed teh 70km to the site by midday with some stops for food along the way. People again were very friendly. Normally when you stop to drink something you have a chat and often people do not accept that you pay for the food. ALong the River the women were having very special headcovers, it did not look like Saudi Arabia and it seemed that they had quite a lot of freedom when it came to treating the men. More equal than I would have imagined. However in the fields you could mainly see woman doing the hard work (as always).

The ruins were spectacular. Only by now it was very very hot. We had to cross a bridge out of sleepers with the bike we sounded like a loaded truck ratratrat tata. It was fun but Carlos was having a go at me because I went to fast and he was worried about our iron mules (bikes). Anyhow they survived. Then we were intercepted by the police. After handing over our Passports and answering the question where we are from and where we started this morning we went along to inspect the site. Carlos got very grumpy as the policeman was shadowing us. This was motivation enough for him to make the steep climb up to the Roman keep, 3 stories high towering 100m above the River. We spent a good couple hours between eating our pomeganates and exploring, meanwhile the bikes and bags rested in the middle of the site about 500m from us (Theft is incredible  rare).

Then we went down to decide what we will do. Sitting beside the Euphrates in the shade the policemen parked right beside us so no chance for a swim for me. By that time I got anoyed and Carlos could not be bothered anymore.

Then the ticketcollector showed up. His english was very good. SO he explained that we are being given special treatment by the police to make sure we are all right and the joking started. We planned to camp but had not yet bought gas. SO we asked if they would not be willing to sell us some at the police station. First they did not understand why we need Gas but then they gave us a litre fro free. So we said good bye and off we went along the river. It was ideal camping ground except we did not have enough drinking water. SO we decided to stop at the next village et water and find a place, by now it was well after 3pm. Arriving at the village we noticed the policemen was following us by car. He stopped an payed our drinks. So on we went. He followed us for at least an hour. Then he got involved in a minor accident and we went on. We were looking for a bridg crossing back over the Euphrates so we stopped and asked and had a discussion with the locals about which football team is better Barca or Madrid (Barca won). When we went on we saw the policemen again but this time we said a final good bye.  

The only problem was by now we were far from the River and in the middle of poblations. So just before sunset we stopped at a shop asking if it would be possible to pitch our tent. The people were not very friendly but a gut who arrived at the shop to buy things spoke some english and said no we cannot camp but we can sleep in his house. Carlos wanted to refuse but I was very happy to accept so we stayed wih Farrin and his second wife for the evening. She came back from Cotton picking and had to immediately prepare dinner for us, however Farrin swept all the floors for our arrival. He is a postmaster and it was very nice to be in his home. I slept like an angel and had a lovely dinner and breakfast with them. IT was very kind and good. And I think the best what could have happend after 94km on the bike.

The next day we left early again after a good breakfast. We were stopped several times on the way, given a lavish meal at lunch. Carlos kept on batteling against the wind and I followed coyly behind in his cycle tracks.

Apart from the people and passing the city of Raqqah where we took the train 5 days earlier to Deir al Zoor the day was hard cycling beautiflul countryside and not a lot more. In the evening we decided to ask for water at a car repair shop. I was suddenly grabbed by the mother, dragged off my bike and along into her house. You sleep here tonight. Well I saw Carlos 3h later. I was given tea and dinner in the meantime and having a lot of fun with Fatima and the girls who spoke some english. Carlos was sitting with the men and it seemed they had very serious conversations (I had a lot of fun I can tell you) We stayed seperated and the girls shutt the door the courtains and started to dance. That was very special! Thank you.

Then I was being told that Carlos is in bed and I have to join him fot the night. So off I went. We got the big room so daddy Hussein slept outside.

Another day with only 94km in my leggs (which were a little wobbly).

The next morning I was invited to pick Olives. WHile we did so Carlos sat in good fashion with the men and drank tea. (He says he cutt some trees...).

We left at midday and it was very hot. We felt very tired and were very slow. However this time I was feeling a bit better than Carlos so he was taking advantage of my wind shadow.

20km down the road a motor cyclist stopped beside us. I was a little warry as I just had my first disrespectful encounter in Syria. SOme guys on the motorbike passed by, coming close to touch my bum. This was so shocking in a culture where men do not touch women even in the most croweded of places that I had a go at them in English and when they turned back I used not only sign language but a good amount of spitt to tell them what I thought. Carlos was stunned going like what happend, what happend?

Well anyway now I have even the insults in Arabic to use for next time!

Anyhow so this guy stopped beside us and in excellent english invited us to stay in his home. After following him through half the city we stopped at his home. We were being shoed into the shower, washed our clothes and when I came out I was imediately given a dress of w'hatma the wife of the brother. Ibrahim and his family were very generous. WE had a feast with lamb meat a very social eveing with friends and family and deceided t o stay 2 nights with them. Ibrahim is a very interesting guy. He writes Qat al arabee (I have no idea how to spell this) which is traditional religious writing. I think he would like to have a different live and other oportunities than what he has, as so many of the younger people here.

The next day we went to Resafa a roman and early christian city. There we were taken by AMid one of the local caretakers to explore the site. It was great. The water storage is at least 30m high and 15m wide underground and they had 3 of them. You can also still see some of the early wall paintings of teh Church which is about 1500 years old. Plus the huge wall around the city.  This place was in the middle of the desert. Getting there and back was funny as we hitch hiked. Then Carlos had a shave in the town and we met up with some of Ibrahims friends in AL Thawra. We had a lovely eveining. Ibrahim did not want us to leave but we have too. As we left just after sunrise his sister in law W'hatma served us breakfast, we left some coins with his brother who collects them and agreed with Ibrahim that he catches up at the Castle Jabaar at the Euphrates in a few hours maybe. We did not believe he will make it. SO we left riding over the 5km long dam spanning the Euphrates. THen up the hill and on to the Qalaat. we did the 35km in about 1.5h not bad as a start. Then we visited the Castle which was dissapointing and went on to have a dip in the Euphrates which was splendid. Then we went a little off road with the bikes as I tried to avoid a big hill. Well it was a mistake as it was much harder my way. And when we came up at the raod again who was waiting for us? Ibrahim! He said he is waiting for over a hour as he was not able to follow us on his motorcycle. I was really sad that we lost 1h with him. So we went to the next village sat down and had a drink. When it was finally time to say good by some tears flowed. But before two older guys stopped at the village. They had been fishing at the River and spoke very good english. ONe was a Goldtrader from Aleppo. He was on his motorcycle saying it will take him 2h to get home to Aleppo (150km) we said it will take us 2 days.

Well off we went, into the biggest dust storm so far. The wind nearly blew us off teh bikes. IT was ver y unpleasant and without Carlos I would not have been able to pedal forwards a bit. This was like this for the rest of the day. WE only managed another 20km in 4h. It was real desert and the first time that the peope were a little reserved.

We pitched our tent that night and hoped that the next morning the wind will stop. Dinner should not have been a problem as we had gas from the policemen and our stove is really good, except no hot dinner that night. THe gas had so much oil in it not even my Wisperlight was able to light it. Luckily we had a tin of Sardines adn some bread with us.

The next morning was bright and clear. We advanced with no difficulties to arrive at the other dam to cross over the Euphrates again. Just before the dam we were stopped by a motorcyclist who tried to tell us something about a site we need to see. Well he led us into a forest to Yusuf Basha which unfortunately is flooded by the waters of the dam.

After an hour doing rounds we were rescuede by another local and taken back to the village where he tried to explain something about Australia in the South and Spain in the north. Fine whatever we did not understand. So we asked for Fallafel and had lunch. Suddenly a guy showed up and spoke to us in english. The usual questions and the he invited us to the local school for some tea and a chat. WHich we went along with. At the School Carlos was still just wearing his cycling shorts I had put on my trousers a long time ago, Ganehm the guy told Carlos that he should cover his legs that it is offensive even for a man to show his knees. Well off Carlos went to get his trousers. Ganehm was teh head of school, a muezzin and very educated. He told us that the village has been flooded but that there is another side in the south where a Australian team is excavating some caves and in the north a spanish team is working. He invited us to stay in his village so we can go and explor the site. He gave us his fphone number so we can call him if we wanted to stay. WE went off to explore the site where we stayed 4h. The site is called Khalid Jebel and it is a greek hill fortress with temple and many many huge caves below where people lived. Some of the caves have collapsed but to see them is still incredible impressive.

Then we went to stay at Ganehms. His village was very pretty. He is a very traditionalist man and it was the first time we were not immediately invited to have a shower. Instead his kind wife had the dinner of fish from the Euphrates ready. Then we had some serious discussion all without his wife and kids present. I was then called into the wifes livingroom where I stayed with them and the children (what and when they ate I have no idea and it made me fell bad). After breakfast the next day we left for Qalaat Najim which we reached in about 2h. Some raods were unpaved and we went through really remote villages, it was stunning! Castle Najim was worth it. The location and remains are giving a great impression of Arab military constructions. One of the local men gave us a tour. His english was non existent and it was a little annoying. They kept asking if we would eat at their place but I did just want to swim in the River, do laundry (in the river) and clean my stove. However we felt obliged to pay him something for his guiding which we did. Obviously we overpaid him. He was so happy. He brought us to a good spot to swim and the said come you must eat at my home I will not charge you for it. SO we did. The rest of the afternoon we spent at the river where we met a swiss guy swimming. We then pitched the tent and a Syrian family visiting the Castle came to have a look and we had some laughes with them. THen the guide came and said you cannot sleep here you must come to my house. We told him that it would make us very happy to sleep in our tent under the stars and he did understand after saying we need to have breakfast with him.

It was incredible peaceful apart from the mosquitos.

The next morning we waived the invitation for breakfast and pushed on to get the 120km to Allepo. THere was less wind but the side road was very ondulated and really got into the legs. SO we decided to get onto the big road and to ride on the hard shoulder. Very good decision. After lunch we were riding uphill when suddenly we saw a cyclist (and he looked very fit (like Contador)) passed us taking advantage of the slippstream of a truck. Of course he did not stop. Carlos was all happiness that such a thing exists in Syria. 10km later the cyclist came riding back to us. He is called Jihadd al Sihabi and he is syrien champion. Insh'alla one day we will see him in the Tour the france.

Unfortunately his english was very limited but we road together for about 15km. He was fair and adjusted to our pace. while riding with him we overtook a car parked on the hard shoulder when suddenly we heard Qalaat Jabaar fishing.... It was the Gold trader. WE were so surprised that we did not even stop. Which we regret deeply as this would have been very nice....

Then we Jidahh had to abandon us and we made our entrance to Aleppo, 4.5milion inhabitants. We thought it may be better not to enter on teh main road so we took a side road. What an error. 2 lanes no hard shoulder and trucks and busses ruttling past every 2 seconds not giving you any space to ride. London traffic is peanuts compared. It was very scary. But we survived. We even got to the place where the hotels are witout much problems.

We found somewhere to sleep not to scruffy even though Carlos complained about its price (after sleeping for free so long anything seems expensive).

In the lobby some guys were talking about a concert in the throne room of the Citadel. SO we decided to go there as this is a once in a livetime experience. WE looked gruffy compared to the syrian high society. The entrance was great the room highly decorated with painings and inlays. The concert was ok but to see the people was facinating. I had a very nice chat with a syrian lady and her son which kindly translated the Arabic Palaver for me. They lived in Germany for a long time and had no traceable accent in there german. We also met the Swiss swimmer from the Qalaat and his syrien friends again. Nevertheless after 118km on the bike only a good nights sleep was attractive.

The ext morning we immersed ourself very tiredly into the Souqh. What an experience. I wish I could spend money here. We also visited the Christian quarters which is as charming but much quieter and the Citadel (again by daylight) ONly theHamam and the museum is missing. But tomorrow we will be going off again. This means most likely a week without internet. ALso we are not able to upload photos to our blogg as Syria does not give us access to the blogg. WE will have to wait until Lebanon I guess or we need to find another place like FLickr for the photos. WE are also unable to access Facebook.

By the way we met up with Brkl again the lad from our first day in Syria from Raqqah. He showed us the huge Aleppo university.

I hope you all are planning that the next holiday is bringing you to Syria!

It is worth it.