From Aleppo to Lattakia

Hi Guys

We have found a hacker who gave us access to the blog. So we are able to post photos again.
We we have travelled already over 1000km by bike. The longest day so far was 120km the shortest about 24km. We saw loads of historic remains, wherever you look there is something often a couple thousand or more years old.
 Well I did not leave Carlos in the Hamam. So he is still all intact. Nevertheless he is suffering badly with a furunkel (I do not know the english word) in a sensitive position. So he was in a lot of pain and could not sit on his saddle. But he is a tough guy and keeps pedaling.

We left Aleppo a week or so ago. On a quiet Friday morning with no traffic. This was good as Aleppo is manic but really enjoyable. We went north into the area where you have many roman and early christian remains. They call it the dead cities. You ride through limestone littered fields (I cannot understand how after 1000s years still so many stones are left in the fields) and then suddenly you see these Roman buildings 3 story high often with a cellar and only parts still intact. Beside the modern villages and people farming the same fields used 2000 years ago. The colors are brown and grey with some olive trees strewn between.
We went to the famous cathedral of Saint Simeon (400ad), it was a very undulating landscape but the last 100m up the castle was murderous steep uphill (I hate uphill). We met 2 mountain bikers which had a laugh at me weaving my way up to the church. But at least the tourists arriving in their aircon buses gave us a round of applause and some encouraging words.

San Simeon was good but even better were the 25km downhill to Ain Dara a bronze age city which was inhabited continuously until 1600ad. We met some Kurds (Omar, Mohamend and Mustafa) just before visiting the site and they invited us to have tea and some Pomegranate (Harvest is in full flow). They said we shall drop their name with the caretaker (Abdul Mohamed) of Ain Dara and he will let us sleep there. He did, first offering us a room for GBP7 which Carlos refused as too expensive, but when he understood that we have a tent we were allowed to pitch it with no charge. He even allowed us to use the shower (hot). Then he told us he is going to a dance and if we would like to join. We refused. Suddenly a car approached and it was Omar and Mohamed arriving to see if we have been able to camp and if there friend is catering to our needs. That was very sweet.

The next morning we tried to be as quiet at 5am as possible but the Abdul Mohamed heard us and prepared breakfast for us, also inviting us to have a look at the Museum. There were many of the carved stone fronties from the site stored waiting for conservation.
From Ain Dara we had our first long climb awaiting us 25km up to Saint Simeon. What we rode downhill the day before in 45min took us 2h. But I was surprised it was less hard than I thought (I still hate uphill) Then we went on to some more of the Dead Cities. IT was really tough as you had a great steep downhill just to have to get uphill again. The  change of rhythm is a killer. Also it was not a very clear day so the views were somewhat tainted. We nearly decided to go to Turkey to Antioch again. But we decided to explore some more of Syria first. After our usual Falafel Lunch we rode up a valley. In the distance we saw this fabulous greek looking gate up a very very steep hill. Carlos got shiny eyes (he loves  uphill) I got week knees, but the main traffic turned left (Yippee) until I saw the steep climb the cars had to do going left. Well quickly it was upon us. I had to climb again (I have a good collection of swearwords I can make use off). It was hard and guess where it brought us to Barad the greek looking gate (actually it is roman and was inscribed as 116ad) We explored the site and it was very beautiful with many lintels inscribed in what looks like latin or aramaic.

Nevertheless we had a big scare. We left the bikes as always somewhere against a big stone or wall. Unfortunately the site was slopping and we could not see the bikes at all time. Luckily we were already on the way back to the bikes when we saw a tractor stopping right beside them and one guy jumping of while the other stayed with running motor on. Carlos sensing danger started shouting at them, dropping the bag and sprinting up hill (He is my superhero). Suddenly the guy on the tractor seemed to notice Carlos and started to gesture that something fell off the tractor. Carlos still does not believe this. But when Carlos got to the bikes they looked untouched. Maybe this was a lucky escape, maybe just a reminder that we have to be more cautious. Further along the road we had a laugh with some locals at a coffee stop in the middle of  nowhere and we tried to camp in a olivegrove close to the village of Sardine. Only to be spotted by the local women and asked to come with them home. I had a good time with the girls, Carlos met his first ultraconservative islamist. A police officer in Aleppo, with strong views that Iran is a glorious example of how to have a muslim state. The most shocking thing was the picture he showed us of a hanged kid. I believe it was genuine. He said the kid was a thief and the people of Aleppo hanged him before the police could do anything. It was not a pretty sight. And I do not hope Syria is going starting to implement sharia law like Iran ever.

We went on early the next morning up the hill (steep but not very long) to Qalb Lozeh. THis is another impressive site on the top of the hill. From there on it went up and down up and down up and up. On the way we asked a horse men if he allowes us to make a photo of him and the horse and of course we were invited for tea or coffee. He told us proudly about his son working in Lebanon. On we went up and down up and down until the big downhill (about 500 altitude meters) into the AL Ghab (Orontes river valley). This was spectacular. From there we went on along the valley (nearly on sea level but a mountain range away from the sea). We had a good run and Carlos broke the speed record which is now set at 78km (He was not wearing a helmet). We wanted to make it to the lake on my map close to a power station. At 5pm we were nearly there just to be intercepted by a group of men drinking tea at the roadside (The 3 Abduls). When they heard we wanted to camp they invited us to stay with them. Which we did. After the second cup of Tea I was asked to join the ladies. Cleverly I asked for a Shower first. Carlos was on my heels. The men offered him a Galabiye (typical dress as you can see in London with the Saudis) and I was offered one too. When I came out of the shower I was immediately put into a headscarf too, no choice. The men were with the men and I was taken to the roof by the kids, meanwhile mama was allowing me to wash my clothes in the washing machine. The few was spectacular but it was a very strange conservative family too. However the girls were very beautiful with green blue eyes. Later on we were whisked off to one of the other Abdul house to have dinner. That was truly different and very tasty (Chicken and potatoes and stuffed Aubergine etc).
Then Asia and Ibrahim the two which were only married for 10 days and very happy asked if they could have a photo. I must make sure we can send it to them.

The next morning started with a very very steep climb. They are like the english. You have a hill which is 900m above see about  700m climb what do you do, use switch back or go straight up? Lets go straight up (Yorkshire moor is calling with 33% inclination). After the first quarter Abdul drove past us in his pick up and asked again very kindly if we do not want him to take us to the top, stupid as I am I said no I will ride. (If Carlos wants the hills he has to put up with me being very slow).


Ahh but before 3 funny incidents at the dinner the sister of Abdul came with her husband. She extend us the hand and I greeted her, she turned to Carlos still with her hand outstretched but when Carlos tried to shake it she pulled it back quickly and made a disapproving noise. The guys were like noooo, never touch a woman. Which we know but which until now just did not happen in this extend and Carlos shook hands with many women.
The other incident was when in the morning I went to pick up my clothes I noticed that my bra was missing. So I asked them where it is as it is seen as a insulting piece of clothing to be hidden away from the male eyes I was not surprised not to see it on the cloth line with the T shirts. However I was very surprised when the mother (and after having given birth to 15 children this is to be expected) which would be at least a double D was pulling her dress aside exposing my bra. Her breast were right under her chin. It would have been worth a picture. Well reluctantly she gave it back after a discussion where she made me understand she would like it as a gift. Sorry I do not have enough of them to give them away!
And the third incident was that Carlos took off his ring during the shower and forgot to put it back on. When we came back to the room the ring was not there and could not be found. He was wondering if to ask about it but we did not want to make a scandal and get one of the kids punished, so we kept quiet. But Carlos was upset about it. The next morning we were ready to leave and Carlos suddenly spotted something shinny hidden behind the bottles of pickled peppers. Guess what it was the ring and it looked like to be hidden away...

Back to my ride. I managed the hill, half way up Carlos took the food bag of me and I just managed. We went on through undulating hills up to AL Barad and on to Serjilla. Some more of the dead cities. In Serjilla we pitched our tent right at the entrance overlooking the ruins it was spectacular. But on this day we only managed 24km. The next day we went ondownhill towards the Orontes Valley again to see Apamea a roman site. The colonnaded way is spectacular. We then went back up the Valley of El Ghab which we left the day before. But we rode on the other side of the Valley and what a difference! The woman were not covered, HAir showing, shoulders showing, lipstick no headscarfes it was like a different world.
Carlos and I had our first argument (yes Lalo we argue less than at home). He could not stop going on about the next big hill 1500m this time which he wanted to ride the steep road up, on and on he went and I believed he realised that me and hills are not going well together by now. So I told him to shut up about it and he got upset and stopped talking. Burra as I am I did shut up too and so we missed the camp side. When it got dark we finally had to talk (also the turn uphill point got really close) we asked at a house for water and got invited. People do not understand that one would like to stay in a tent so they immediately ask you to sleep at there place. All the family was very westernly dressed, men and women sitting on chairs on the Veranda with the kids around having a conversation (just like in the west) when the first wife came the husband got up and greeted her she shook hands with everybody including Carlos (kisses for me). Kids talked to grownups and women sat beside men etc. And this was 12km away in the same Valley just on the other side. I do not think that my words describe the cultural difference enought.

We went to bed early and rose before sunrise. 2km later the 25km long climb started alla straight up again! I was not happy And my left pedal on top of that started to have a movement which Carlos cannot fix (Paul why do you not come and join us I need a mechanic who understands bikes!)
Carlos went on and on about: why do we not stop a truck and you get on it and wait on the top. So I new I am to slow and taking the joy out of his hill riding. But he wants the steep hills  (There was a route albeit a little longer easier on the hills) he will have to live with a snail paced girlfriend. I made the 25km. The first 14km where murderous, the next few were nearly flat and then there was the top. Sadly the valley was covered in a typ of mist maybe from the burnings maybe because winter is close (with 35degrees still).
At the top I put my foot down and we went and had houmus in the restaurant. When we looked down we saw that there is another road up from the 7km point. Luckily we did not know at the bottom. I would not have been able to ride it, Carlos would have loved it. IT was straight up for about 700 altitude meters. The cars coming up were crawling.
Well next time I take the lorry and Carlos can ride it.
On the down hill we were just swooping around a corner in the first bigger village when I spotted a familiar face. Breaks were smoking and I stopped to meet Claude the french guy from Aleppo which kindly pointed out so many of Syrians highlights to us. I was so surprised I did not even ask him about his trip to the Kurds of the north east (boardering the Iraq turkish boarder). I would have loved to hear about it. He was on foot going up to the mountain we just rode over. I hope he had a great time and I also hope we will met again!
THank you Claude our Breton.

On the way down we stopped at Saladins Castle.

An impressive site worth the step decent into the Valley and the hard climb up to it. The heat was  oppressive and only made bearable by the oak and pine forest in the area. Our first forest in Syria stretching nearly all the way to Lattakia. Entering Lattakia was not great. We arrived from the SOuth East and had to ride through the rush hour traffic. However Mohamed from the Samar hotel was very understanding that we do not want to carry our bikes up to the second floor and accommodated us as low down as possible. After the hot shower and putting on the washing we explored famous liberal Lattakia.
I am still not impressed. OK the people are dressing like in the west and girls and boys can be seen sitting beside each other and having conversations but the town itself is just not special considering that you have the sea right beside you.
So today we went to Ugarit where the first Alphabet was invented. That was very nice even though it is very sticky. We forfeit a bath in the sea as the beaches we passed looked litter strewn.
We then checked on the bikes and had a siesta. Now we are preparing for Carlitos birthday tomorrow. He will stop being my toyboy and catch up with me again for another 345 days. He wants to camp at a beach and I want to see another of the big Castles we will also be riding about 80km along the coast.
Well guys I hope we are notboring you to much.
IF you do not know where to go on your next holidays come to Syria it is worth it.

My best wishes to all of you and I hope you are having as good weather as we have!

My ever diminuishing view of Syria

For Paula

Aleppo hasta Latakia

Hola a tod@s, todavia estamos vivos aunque este calor pronto nos va a matar, je,je!!

Despues de dejar Alepo nos dirigimos al norte donde tendriamos nuestro primer contacto con las montanhas. Nuestro destino era Aindara haciendo una parada en el castillo de San Simeon. Para llevar alli tuvimos que subir un puerto de 4km que fue el entrante para lo que nos esperaba en los proximos dias.

Dejar atras la ciudad siempre me gusta. Siempre intentamos coger carreteras secundarias y eso nos permite visitar pequenhos pueblos y aldeas donde podemos observar Siria desde adentro. En nuestro viaje hasta ahora hemos recorrido siria de Este a Oeste y la verdad que se observan diferencias en la gente. Hay sitios, como Dera Zor, que son mas conservadores y donde la mayoria de las mujeres van casi totalmente cubiertas mientras en otros la apariencia es Europea. La diferencia mas sorprendente la notamos unos dias atras. El Lunes18 llegabamos de Norte a Sur por le valle de Al Ghab. Era tarde y paramos a pedir agua a unos hombres que estaban tomando te a la puerta de su casa.  Cuando le dijimos que queriamos acampar cerca de alli nos invitaron a dormir en su casa. De seis hombres tres se llamaban Abdul (incluido el duenho de la casa). Nos duchamos y tanto a mi como a Barbara nos dieron para vestir un Galabiye y a Barbara incluso le cubrieron el pelo completamente. La familia fue de los mas amable con nosotros sin embargo la diferencia de hombres con mujeres era muy marcada. Barbara se fue con las mujeres mientras yo me quede tomando te y viendo como los hombres jugaban a un juego tradicional arabe (creo que es Kija pero no estoy seguro). Cuando estabamos cenando llego la hermana de Abdul y se dirijio a Barbara y la saludo. Normalmente yo espero a que la mujer se acerque a saludarme pero hasta ahora siempre me habian dado la mano sin ningun problema. Cuando se giro hacia mi extendi mi mano para saludarla y esta mujer me dijo con cara de asustada - no, no!! El sobrino entonces me dijo que el islam prohibe que la mujer toque al hombre.

Yo me habia olvidado mi anillo en la ducha y a la noche cuando fuy a buscarlo no pude encontrarlo. No lo podia creer, era imposible que me quitaran. Decidi no decir nada porque sabia que si no seria un autentico drama. A la manhana siguiente antes de salir estaba limpiandome los dientes cuando de repente vi algo brillar detras de unas botellas. Movi las botellas y detras estaba mi anillo, me alegre mucho. Estaba claro que no me lo habian cogino sin mas, eso seria robo. Sin embargo alguien lo puso alli detras y si yo no lo hubiese encontrado hubiese sido como que me lo olvide -oops se lo ha olvidado, mala suerte-
Otro detalle 'simpatico' le paso a Barbara. Teniamos bastante ropa sucia y esta gente nos dijo que tenian lavadora por lo que no era un problema lavarla. Al dia siguiente cuando Barbara recogio la ropa se puso a b uscar su sujetador ya que lo necesitaba para el dia. Se dio cuenta que no estaba alli por lo que fue a preguntar a la madre si sabia donde podia estar. Ella le ensenho su hombro mostrandole que lo tenia puesto. Era increible, una senhora con unos pechos enormes (habia tenido 10 hijos y aun daba pecho a uno de ellos y usaria como una talla XL) estaba con un sujetador de talla S. Los pechos le llegaban a la garganta, no se ni como podia respirar. Le pidio a Barbara si podia quedarse con el pero la verdad que era imposible asi que el detalle se quedo en eso.

El miercoles 20 despues de visitar Sirjilla y Al Barha nos dirigimos hacia Latakia. Ese dia tuvimos que subir parte del mismo valle (Al Ghab) de sur a norte. Acabamos durmiento a pie de la subida que nos llevaria a Latakia. Mas o menos estabamos a la misma altura de la casa de Abdul pero en el otro lado del valle (unos 12km nos separaban). La situacion fue exactamente igual. Paramos a pedir agua y acabaron invitandonos a dormir en su casa. Esta familia era totalmente diferente. Las mujeres me saludaron dandome la mano sin ningun tipo de problema. Las mujeres no se cubrian el pelo y la mayoria vestian pantalones. Algunas de las hijas incluso con camisetas de asas lo que es bastante raro aqui. Era increible que en una distancia de solo 12 km existiese un contraste tan grande.

La carretera a Latakia nos deparaba la subida mas dura de nuestro viaje. Teniamos que subir unos 25km por lo que ese dia salimos bien temprano ( a las 6:30 am) Los primeros 12 km fueron realmente duros con rampas de unos 18% de desnivel que con los 25kg de carga que llevo se me hicieron durisimos. Despues de 3 horas llegamos a la cima donde habia un restaurante con unas vistas increibles del valle, pena que la visivilidad era muy baja. Nos dimos cuenta que otra carretera subia desde el mismo sitio hasta donde estabamos. Esta subida era mucho mas corta unos 12km por lo que os podeis imaginar el desnivel que tendria, el Angliru de Siria.

Subir fue duro pero la bajada nos llevaria hasta Latakia. El descenso fue muy divertido y alcanzamos la velocidad de 78km/h. Sin embargo aun tuvimos que subir unos 2km tambien muy duros ya que queriamos visitar el Castillo de Saladin, un castillo realmente hermoso en un lugar muy pintoresco.

Hasta ahora todo esta marchando muy bien. Las bicis estan respondiendo (aunque los radios de la rueda de atras se me aflojan y tengo que sacar mis dotes de mecanico) y nosotros no estamos mal. Bueno eso no es del todo cierto ya que yo estoy sufriendo por culpa de un furunculo que el ultimo dia casi no me permitia sentarme en la bici pero hoy estoy mucho mejor. Lo estamos pasando bien y tenemos un moreno a trozos que no veas.

Ahora nos dirigiremos a el Libano y espero que podamos escribir un poco mas amenudo.

Un saludo y hasta pronto

Deir al Zoor to Aleppo in english

Dear Friends we were for over a week without internet access. THis may have been very nice for us but you were not able to follow our travels.

Last time we wrote we were in the North East close to the Iraqi boarder celebrating my birthday.  We left Deir al Zoor to travel along the Euphrates River (The River from Paradise) towards the northwest and we did some more serious cycling.

The first day we left at sunrise, with the call of the Muezzin ringing in our ears and little traffic on the road. It was hazy and a little fresher than the previous days which was very convenient. THe goal was the arceological site of Zalabiye/Halabiye. Roman cities along the river. Cycling was going good. At least for me like required by a good wife in the arabic world I was always behind Carlos, following closeby but no touching. This may have had more to do with the prevailing headwind however. We managed teh 70km to the site by midday with some stops for food along the way. People again were very friendly. Normally when you stop to drink something you have a chat and often people do not accept that you pay for the food. ALong the River the women were having very special headcovers, it did not look like Saudi Arabia and it seemed that they had quite a lot of freedom when it came to treating the men. More equal than I would have imagined. However in the fields you could mainly see woman doing the hard work (as always).

The ruins were spectacular. Only by now it was very very hot. We had to cross a bridge out of sleepers with the bike we sounded like a loaded truck ratratrat tata. It was fun but Carlos was having a go at me because I went to fast and he was worried about our iron mules (bikes). Anyhow they survived. Then we were intercepted by the police. After handing over our Passports and answering the question where we are from and where we started this morning we went along to inspect the site. Carlos got very grumpy as the policeman was shadowing us. This was motivation enough for him to make the steep climb up to the Roman keep, 3 stories high towering 100m above the River. We spent a good couple hours between eating our pomeganates and exploring, meanwhile the bikes and bags rested in the middle of the site about 500m from us (Theft is incredible  rare).

Then we went down to decide what we will do. Sitting beside the Euphrates in the shade the policemen parked right beside us so no chance for a swim for me. By that time I got anoyed and Carlos could not be bothered anymore.

Then the ticketcollector showed up. His english was very good. SO he explained that we are being given special treatment by the police to make sure we are all right and the joking started. We planned to camp but had not yet bought gas. SO we asked if they would not be willing to sell us some at the police station. First they did not understand why we need Gas but then they gave us a litre fro free. So we said good bye and off we went along the river. It was ideal camping ground except we did not have enough drinking water. SO we decided to stop at the next village et water and find a place, by now it was well after 3pm. Arriving at the village we noticed the policemen was following us by car. He stopped an payed our drinks. So on we went. He followed us for at least an hour. Then he got involved in a minor accident and we went on. We were looking for a bridg crossing back over the Euphrates so we stopped and asked and had a discussion with the locals about which football team is better Barca or Madrid (Barca won). When we went on we saw the policemen again but this time we said a final good bye.  

The only problem was by now we were far from the River and in the middle of poblations. So just before sunset we stopped at a shop asking if it would be possible to pitch our tent. The people were not very friendly but a gut who arrived at the shop to buy things spoke some english and said no we cannot camp but we can sleep in his house. Carlos wanted to refuse but I was very happy to accept so we stayed wih Farrin and his second wife for the evening. She came back from Cotton picking and had to immediately prepare dinner for us, however Farrin swept all the floors for our arrival. He is a postmaster and it was very nice to be in his home. I slept like an angel and had a lovely dinner and breakfast with them. IT was very kind and good. And I think the best what could have happend after 94km on the bike.

The next day we left early again after a good breakfast. We were stopped several times on the way, given a lavish meal at lunch. Carlos kept on batteling against the wind and I followed coyly behind in his cycle tracks.

Apart from the people and passing the city of Raqqah where we took the train 5 days earlier to Deir al Zoor the day was hard cycling beautiflul countryside and not a lot more. In the evening we decided to ask for water at a car repair shop. I was suddenly grabbed by the mother, dragged off my bike and along into her house. You sleep here tonight. Well I saw Carlos 3h later. I was given tea and dinner in the meantime and having a lot of fun with Fatima and the girls who spoke some english. Carlos was sitting with the men and it seemed they had very serious conversations (I had a lot of fun I can tell you) We stayed seperated and the girls shutt the door the courtains and started to dance. That was very special! Thank you.

Then I was being told that Carlos is in bed and I have to join him fot the night. So off I went. We got the big room so daddy Hussein slept outside.

Another day with only 94km in my leggs (which were a little wobbly).

The next morning I was invited to pick Olives. WHile we did so Carlos sat in good fashion with the men and drank tea. (He says he cutt some trees...).

We left at midday and it was very hot. We felt very tired and were very slow. However this time I was feeling a bit better than Carlos so he was taking advantage of my wind shadow.

20km down the road a motor cyclist stopped beside us. I was a little warry as I just had my first disrespectful encounter in Syria. SOme guys on the motorbike passed by, coming close to touch my bum. This was so shocking in a culture where men do not touch women even in the most croweded of places that I had a go at them in English and when they turned back I used not only sign language but a good amount of spitt to tell them what I thought. Carlos was stunned going like what happend, what happend?

Well anyway now I have even the insults in Arabic to use for next time!

Anyhow so this guy stopped beside us and in excellent english invited us to stay in his home. After following him through half the city we stopped at his home. We were being shoed into the shower, washed our clothes and when I came out I was imediately given a dress of w'hatma the wife of the brother. Ibrahim and his family were very generous. WE had a feast with lamb meat a very social eveing with friends and family and deceided t o stay 2 nights with them. Ibrahim is a very interesting guy. He writes Qat al arabee (I have no idea how to spell this) which is traditional religious writing. I think he would like to have a different live and other oportunities than what he has, as so many of the younger people here.

The next day we went to Resafa a roman and early christian city. There we were taken by AMid one of the local caretakers to explore the site. It was great. The water storage is at least 30m high and 15m wide underground and they had 3 of them. You can also still see some of the early wall paintings of teh Church which is about 1500 years old. Plus the huge wall around the city.  This place was in the middle of the desert. Getting there and back was funny as we hitch hiked. Then Carlos had a shave in the town and we met up with some of Ibrahims friends in AL Thawra. We had a lovely eveining. Ibrahim did not want us to leave but we have too. As we left just after sunrise his sister in law W'hatma served us breakfast, we left some coins with his brother who collects them and agreed with Ibrahim that he catches up at the Castle Jabaar at the Euphrates in a few hours maybe. We did not believe he will make it. SO we left riding over the 5km long dam spanning the Euphrates. THen up the hill and on to the Qalaat. we did the 35km in about 1.5h not bad as a start. Then we visited the Castle which was dissapointing and went on to have a dip in the Euphrates which was splendid. Then we went a little off road with the bikes as I tried to avoid a big hill. Well it was a mistake as it was much harder my way. And when we came up at the raod again who was waiting for us? Ibrahim! He said he is waiting for over a hour as he was not able to follow us on his motorcycle. I was really sad that we lost 1h with him. So we went to the next village sat down and had a drink. When it was finally time to say good by some tears flowed. But before two older guys stopped at the village. They had been fishing at the River and spoke very good english. ONe was a Goldtrader from Aleppo. He was on his motorcycle saying it will take him 2h to get home to Aleppo (150km) we said it will take us 2 days.

Well off we went, into the biggest dust storm so far. The wind nearly blew us off teh bikes. IT was ver y unpleasant and without Carlos I would not have been able to pedal forwards a bit. This was like this for the rest of the day. WE only managed another 20km in 4h. It was real desert and the first time that the peope were a little reserved.

We pitched our tent that night and hoped that the next morning the wind will stop. Dinner should not have been a problem as we had gas from the policemen and our stove is really good, except no hot dinner that night. THe gas had so much oil in it not even my Wisperlight was able to light it. Luckily we had a tin of Sardines adn some bread with us.

The next morning was bright and clear. We advanced with no difficulties to arrive at the other dam to cross over the Euphrates again. Just before the dam we were stopped by a motorcyclist who tried to tell us something about a site we need to see. Well he led us into a forest to Yusuf Basha which unfortunately is flooded by the waters of the dam.

After an hour doing rounds we were rescuede by another local and taken back to the village where he tried to explain something about Australia in the South and Spain in the north. Fine whatever we did not understand. So we asked for Fallafel and had lunch. Suddenly a guy showed up and spoke to us in english. The usual questions and the he invited us to the local school for some tea and a chat. WHich we went along with. At the School Carlos was still just wearing his cycling shorts I had put on my trousers a long time ago, Ganehm the guy told Carlos that he should cover his legs that it is offensive even for a man to show his knees. Well off Carlos went to get his trousers. Ganehm was teh head of school, a muezzin and very educated. He told us that the village has been flooded but that there is another side in the south where a Australian team is excavating some caves and in the north a spanish team is working. He invited us to stay in his village so we can go and explor the site. He gave us his fphone number so we can call him if we wanted to stay. WE went off to explore the site where we stayed 4h. The site is called Khalid Jebel and it is a greek hill fortress with temple and many many huge caves below where people lived. Some of the caves have collapsed but to see them is still incredible impressive.

Then we went to stay at Ganehms. His village was very pretty. He is a very traditionalist man and it was the first time we were not immediately invited to have a shower. Instead his kind wife had the dinner of fish from the Euphrates ready. Then we had some serious discussion all without his wife and kids present. I was then called into the wifes livingroom where I stayed with them and the children (what and when they ate I have no idea and it made me fell bad). After breakfast the next day we left for Qalaat Najim which we reached in about 2h. Some raods were unpaved and we went through really remote villages, it was stunning! Castle Najim was worth it. The location and remains are giving a great impression of Arab military constructions. One of the local men gave us a tour. His english was non existent and it was a little annoying. They kept asking if we would eat at their place but I did just want to swim in the River, do laundry (in the river) and clean my stove. However we felt obliged to pay him something for his guiding which we did. Obviously we overpaid him. He was so happy. He brought us to a good spot to swim and the said come you must eat at my home I will not charge you for it. SO we did. The rest of the afternoon we spent at the river where we met a swiss guy swimming. We then pitched the tent and a Syrian family visiting the Castle came to have a look and we had some laughes with them. THen the guide came and said you cannot sleep here you must come to my house. We told him that it would make us very happy to sleep in our tent under the stars and he did understand after saying we need to have breakfast with him.

It was incredible peaceful apart from the mosquitos.

The next morning we waived the invitation for breakfast and pushed on to get the 120km to Allepo. THere was less wind but the side road was very ondulated and really got into the legs. SO we decided to get onto the big road and to ride on the hard shoulder. Very good decision. After lunch we were riding uphill when suddenly we saw a cyclist (and he looked very fit (like Contador)) passed us taking advantage of the slippstream of a truck. Of course he did not stop. Carlos was all happiness that such a thing exists in Syria. 10km later the cyclist came riding back to us. He is called Jihadd al Sihabi and he is syrien champion. Insh'alla one day we will see him in the Tour the france.

Unfortunately his english was very limited but we road together for about 15km. He was fair and adjusted to our pace. while riding with him we overtook a car parked on the hard shoulder when suddenly we heard Qalaat Jabaar fishing.... It was the Gold trader. WE were so surprised that we did not even stop. Which we regret deeply as this would have been very nice....

Then we Jidahh had to abandon us and we made our entrance to Aleppo, 4.5milion inhabitants. We thought it may be better not to enter on teh main road so we took a side road. What an error. 2 lanes no hard shoulder and trucks and busses ruttling past every 2 seconds not giving you any space to ride. London traffic is peanuts compared. It was very scary. But we survived. We even got to the place where the hotels are witout much problems.

We found somewhere to sleep not to scruffy even though Carlos complained about its price (after sleeping for free so long anything seems expensive).

In the lobby some guys were talking about a concert in the throne room of the Citadel. SO we decided to go there as this is a once in a livetime experience. WE looked gruffy compared to the syrian high society. The entrance was great the room highly decorated with painings and inlays. The concert was ok but to see the people was facinating. I had a very nice chat with a syrian lady and her son which kindly translated the Arabic Palaver for me. They lived in Germany for a long time and had no traceable accent in there german. We also met the Swiss swimmer from the Qalaat and his syrien friends again. Nevertheless after 118km on the bike only a good nights sleep was attractive.

The ext morning we immersed ourself very tiredly into the Souqh. What an experience. I wish I could spend money here. We also visited the Christian quarters which is as charming but much quieter and the Citadel (again by daylight) ONly theHamam and the museum is missing. But tomorrow we will be going off again. This means most likely a week without internet. ALso we are not able to upload photos to our blogg as Syria does not give us access to the blogg. WE will have to wait until Lebanon I guess or we need to find another place like FLickr for the photos. WE are also unable to access Facebook.

By the way we met up with Brkl again the lad from our first day in Syria from Raqqah. He showed us the huge Aleppo university.

I hope you all are planning that the next holiday is bringing you to Syria!

It is worth it.

Deir al-Zur to Aleppo

Hola a tod@s. Hace tiempo que no escribimos nada en nuestro blog y la razon es que no hemos encontrado ningun internet en nuestro camino hacia Aleppo. 
Despues de unos dias en Deir al-Zur nos pusimos en camino hacia Aleppo. La carretera nos llevo siguiendo el Eufrates. La primera parada fue en Zarabilla, un castillo justo pegado al Eufrates del cual queda poco en pie. Sin embargo al estar situado en una pequnha colina la vista era maravillosa y su posicion estrategica ya que controlaba todo el valle de norte a sur. Se alli nos fuimos a Jarabilla que estaba situado a unos 5km en la otra orilla del Eufrates. Esta fortaleza esta un poco mejor conservada con una portentosa muralla. 
 
Seguimos nuestro rumbo hacia Aleppo. El dia era caluroso y despues de 5h en la bici (94km) decidimos intentar buscar algun sitio para poner nuestra tienda. Paramos en una pequenha tiendecilla pegada a la carretera. Despues de comprar algo de beber le dijimos si era posible poner nuestra tienda por alli cerca. Alli estaba un senhor 
(Fahir) que al oirnos nos ofrecio su casa para pasar la noche. Aunque al principio del viaje nos parecia extranho tanta amabilidad ahora se esta combirtiendo en algo de lo mas normal. Le seguimos a su casa y despues de ducharnos nos ofrecieron una fabulosa cena preparada por una de las mujeres de Fahir (tiene dos mujeres). Estabamos cansados por lo que nos fuimos a dormir temprano.
 
Al dia siguiente nos toco otro largo dia en bicicleta. Teniamos unos 110km hasta Al Zaura. Salimos bien temprano para evitar el duro viento en contra que habiamos sufrido el dia anterior. No teniamos ningun sitio para visitar por lo que era un dia dedicado exclusivamente a la bicicleta. Sin embargo esto en Siria es casi imposible. En este pais es casi imposible evitar tener largas paradas, siempre hay alguien invitandote a su casa por te o para comer. Hoy no era una excepcion por lo que cuando estabamos preguntando por direcciones se nos acerco un chico que con un muy buen ingles nos indico el camino pero como no nos llevo a su casa a tomar un te. El te se convirtio en una comisa copiosa y una parada de unas 2h. 
 
Seguimos nuestro camino ya que queriamos llegar a Al Zaura. Era otro dia caluroso y la ultima parte era un poco mas montanhosa. Despues de 5h estabamos realmente cansados y decidimos parar a pedir agua no solo para beber pero para cocinar ya que teniamos pensado acampar en la orilla del Eufrates. Paramos en un pequenho taller mechanico al lado de la carretera. Habia un grupo de hombres tomando te y nos invitaron a sentarnos con ellos. Como no nos invitaron a pasar la noche en su casa. Despues de tomar el te el senhor (Hussein) nos llevo a su casa que era en la parte de atras del taller. Despues de asearnos nos sentamos en el salon. Bueno la verdad que yo me sente en el salon con los hombres mientras Barbara se fue con las mujeres. La gente en Siria es curiosa por naturaleza. Siempre nos preguntan acerca de nuestro viaje, si estamos casados, si tenemos hijos, en que trabajamos y un sinfin de preguntas. Ademas, siempre que estamos invitados en una casa llega gente a tomar te. Algunos son vecinos, otros son familiares y otros amigos. Por ejemplo en la casa de Hussein estabamos sentados en el salon yo, Hussein y dos chicos cuando llego otro senhor. Todo el mundo se levanto a saludarlo por lo que yo hice lo mismo. Mas tarde llego mas jovenes y luego otro senhor al que todo el mundo saludo poniendose en pie. 
 
Es curioso como funciona la jerarquia en estas familias. Siempre hay el Baba (patriarca) que puede o no estar viviendo en la casa y sus hermanos le siguen en la jerarquia. Los jovenes muestran un gran respeto a los mayores y por su puesto cuanto mas alto en la jerarquia mas respeto parece haber. Normalmente los hombres comen juntos mientras las mujeres comen en otro lado de la casa. No es que este de acuerdo con todo pero creo que deberiamos copiar un poco del respeto que los arabes tienen hacia los mayores. Al fin y al cabo estamos aqui gracias a ellos y ellos poseen la experiencia.
 
Al dia siguiente teniamos un dia facil hasta Al Zaura por lo que por la manhana nos fuimos con Hussein a recoger aceitunas. Hacia las 12 nos pusimo en camino a Al Zaura. Eran solo 35km pero nos sentiamos cansados despues de dos dias duros de calor, con viento en contra y 5 h en la bici. Lo tomamos muy tranquilo. Llegando a Al Zaura cogimos una carretera secundaria para evitar el trafico. A 5km de Al Zaura una moto se puso a nuestra altura y un joven (Ibrahim) nos pregunto a donde ibamos. Le dijimos que a buscar un hotel en Al Zaura y el nos dijo que no, que iriamos a su casa, que en no habia hoteles. Aceptamos la oferta y nos fuimos a su casa. Ibrahim vivia hacia las afueras del pueblo. Despues de un descando y una copiosa cena nos fuimos a dormir temprano. 
 
Al dia siguiente nos fuimos con Ibrahim a Rasafa, las ruinas de una ciudad que esta situada en el medio del desierto. Hicimos autoestop para ir y para volver (normalmente aqui puedes parar a un coche que venga y le pagas algo para que te lleve). Rasafa es enorme e impresionate por lo que estuvimos alli unas 4 horas. No habia muchos turistas y tuvimos la suerte de encontrarnos al guardian el cual nos llevo a visitar los almacenes de grano y agua de la ciudad. La verdad que tuvimos mucha suerte ya que no estan abiertos al publico, fuimos unos privilegiados, hasta Ibrahim estaba contento ya que nunca los habia visitado. Ese dia para cenar la familia de Ibrahim nos preparo una gran banquete que fue abundante y riquisimo. 
 
El proximo dia seguimos nuestro camino pero antes hicimos una parada en Qalat Jabar (un castillo que se salvo de estar cubierto por el embalse y que esta a 25km de Al Zaura). Despues de la visita nos fuimos a darnos un banho en el Eufrates (bueno, el embalse). Unas 2h despues nos pusimos de nuevo en camino y a los 2km vimos a alguien en la carretera, era Ibrahim que estaba esperando por nosotros. Nos habia seguido hasta Qalat Jabar pero como fuimos a darnos un banho nos habia perdido de vista. Fue una grata sorpresa el verle alli. Nos fuimos al siguiente pueblo y paramos para tomarnos algo y despedirnos por ultima vez de esta gran persona a la cual deseamos lo mejor. 
 
Cuando reiniciamos el camino se habia levantado un viento trememdo. Ese viento se convirtio en una tormenta de polvo que hacia muy dificil la marcha. No se podia ver mucho, era como cuando baja la niebla y ademas el viento nos pegaba de costado. La zona donde estabamos era totalmente desertica pero habia bastantes pueblos por el camino. Solo hicimos 66 km pero fueron realmente duros. Estaba empezando a anochecer y teniamos que encontrar algun sitio para poner nuestra tienda, por desgracia no habia sitios resguardados del viento. Paramos en un pueblito a beber algo y esperabamos que alguien nos invitase a dormir en su casa (nos estamos mal acostumbrando). Sin embargo la gente en ese sitio no parecia tan amable como lo que habiamos experimentado antes por lo que seguimos nuestro camino un poco desesperados ya que lo noche se estaba echando en cima. Unos 3km mas adelante ya desesperados decidimos coger un camino y buscar algun sitio para acampar. Por suerte encontramos un pequnho sitio donde poner la tienda el cual estaba un poco resguardado del viento. Ademas tuvimos la gran suerte de que calleron unas gotas de lluvia lo que hizo que el viento cesase casi completamente. 
 
Al dia siguiente seguimos para Qalat Najim (otro castillo). Llegamos alli despues de pasar la noche en otro pueblo llamado Yusuf Bashar donde tambien visitamos las ruinas de un pueblo Griego. Qalat Najim era grandioso y estaba en un sitio excepcional por lo que decidimos pasar la noche alli. Al dia siguiente nos fuimos para Aleppo (120km). Este dia si que lo decicamos a la bici ya que si no seria imposible llegar. La anecdota del dia fue que llegando a Aleppo  nos encontramos con un ciclista que resulto ser el campeon nacional de Siria (Jihad Alsijabi). Recorrimos unos km con el y nuestros caminos se separaron, el tenia que seguir con su entrenamineto.
 
Llegamos a Aleppo hacia las 4 de la tarde. El trafico era caotico por lo que llegar al centro de la ciudad fue una aventura por si sola. Pero lo conseguimos sanos y salvos. Los siguientes 3 dias los dedicamos a visitar esta ancestral ciudad llena de historia y con un castillo impresionante. Disfrutamos realmente nuestra estancia en Aleppo donde ademas nos encontramos de nuevo con Brkal el joven que nos habiamos encontrado en Raqqa una semana atras.
 
Ahora seguiremos hacia la costa de Siria y espero poder tener algo mas de acceso a internet. 
 
Un saludo para tod@s de Carlos y Barbara.
 
 
 

Turkey to Syria and the first 3 days in Syria in English

Last time we spoke we were still in Turkey. SInce then we have done some serious pedaling and sightseeing. From Sanliurfa in Turkey we decided to go via the bronzeage settlement of Goebeli tepek to Harran. SO we made a 40km detour to see Goebeli. It was first quite flat, then we deviated from the main road and even tough the road was very good the hills started. It was though. On the way we met a sheppard who asked us if we would like to take a foto of him, of course! THen he showed us that one of his fingers had a uggly cut so we took out the first aid kitt and Carlos tried to bandaid it. I stood by as I was not sure if I am allowed to touch the man. But what a bad job Carlos did. He nearly cut of the circulation of the poor fellow so we had to redo it. The goats, sheeps and donkey all wandered off in the meantime. If there would have been any wolfes they would have eaten them all.

After that rather funny stop we keept going up and up and up (and it is over 30 degrees). I hate it! But then I wanted to see Goebeli Tepek. We reached the top and a down hill bit came along, so I said to Carlos that if the SIte is down in the valley below I will not go any further as we had to return the same way. But no we turned onto a dirt track for the last 500m. Nevertheless it was steep uphill and bumpy again. When we arrived at the gate the 2 guardians came out and told us that we cannot access the site as it is closed HAHAHA.

I was pretty upset specially as the signes by the german archeological team state access between sunrise and sunset, no addmission charged. But the guardians had the Kalashnikovs.

 

Well we left after a short break (no sneaking in). Then we went and stopped at the petrol station to get directions and to be invited for tea. By now it was very hot (10am) We went on the small countryside roads and everywhere the people working (and hey they are working hard in the cotton fields or on constructions) somebody called out to us to say hello but as well to offer us tea. If you would stop each time we would only cover a couple km a day. But then we had to ask for directions sometimes. In one place they mobilized the english teacher and he came to draw us a map. His english was excellent (Thank you Aslan) unfortunately we did not receive a working email and therefore cannot send the pictures taken.

 

Further down the road we stopped in the shade of some trees, always conciously looking for a place with little people around. A car stopped and the driver asked if we speak french. Well I don't, but we could understand each other. Then school finished. At the beginning we had 2 boys standing patiently behind us on the sunny side of the road talking about us. We ignored them while we ate but then some more arrived and Carlos opend the conversation. What a joy. There english was reasonable. We had a really good time with some of them being very repectful and some a little cheekier. At the end we took the photos and were ready to leave when one of them told us that the next village is very dangerous. We did not understand why as they go to school there. so dogs may have been the reason. We asked they insisted: very dangerous. In that instance they were all gathered around Carlos who suddenly decided to roar like a lion and to show them how dangerous he is. They got such a fright. It was so funny. All had a big giggle.

 

And then we arrived in the next village, no dogs but a military outpost. Nobody could tell us why they needed them. Anyhow we preesed on to the next village and asked at the petrol station for directions. A man showed us the way in his van where we had to turn of. In that moment a guy on  a motorbike entered the path (and it was bumpy) Our guide asked if the motorcyclist is going to Tasklc our village so we could follow him. SO we did slowing te motorcyclist down to 10km a hour. He took out his phone and started a lenghty conversation (my bet was that he is asking his friend to await us with a roadblock to rob us, Carlos was thinking we will be invited to more tea). WHen arriving at the village (still no road block in sight) we were having more tea! They introduced us to Baba (the Patriarch) I was allowed to sit with the men but they were making sure they do not have to look or touch me. The best teaglasses (with the golden rim) was brought out and conversation could start. Carlos is doing really well and I am keeping my head down really well too. Baba has 2 wifes and many kids he owns the cotton s far as the eye reaches and has a big big house. We refused to have lunch as it was getting late an Harran our goal was still far. When we were ready to leave Babas first wife joind us. This was a relieve as one of the kids started crowding me. We took photos when she said I shall come with her. SO I was invited into the womens domain. The second wife was feeding her newborn inside, both of them very beautiful. The kids were sent outside and she opend the cupboard and took out this very festive gown! Wich I was allowed to put on and then to showcast for photos outside. WHen I arrived Carlos just kept on talking, then suddenly he went OHH, on which Baba started to cheer. And more photos were taken.

THe family was very traditional men/women divided but it did not matter they were very very kind.

What a experience.\

We made it well to Harran.

 

Harran has beehieve houses and a great Karawanserei. Also it was the first muslim university. Unfortunately it is very touristy so all the kids come up to you begging. Whenever you travel somewhere remote, please do not give pencils and so on to the kids, if you want to do good bring it to the local school or support a developement project in the area. Otherwise you have all those begging anoying kids.

 

From there we went on to the Syrian boarder. I did not feel fit at all, and it was the hottest day so far. WE got to a very caotic but incredible  friendly boarder where the custom officer tried to explain that he can only give us 15 days but that we are able to prolong for another 10 days in any major syrian scity or as we have multiple entry visas that we can crossed the boarder and come back. When we rested a moment outside some more tea was served by the local custom officer then another guy came up with is mobile in hand giving it to us and gess what a spanish voice asking us what we need! A young lady working in the boarder office (her last day) who was born in Malaga and lived in Cuba. What a reception.

In Tell Abyad we stopped for some lunch. When the guy took out a knive with a blade of 1m I had to take a  photo which they relished. We took a couple more photos and another guest speaking english had a conversation with us. THe owner gave us the food free of charge, we promised to send the photo I hope it will get there. Then we took off and half a mile down the road a motocyclist came towards us. It was the owner with his wife. Who was shown to whom I am not sure but it was very touching. We got lost on the countrytracks to be helpd by some youths and then we pressed on. There was no way we could make another hotel. so we camped in a olive grove. It was lovely a light brise, the stars etc. But suddenly the wid picked up and as we had not put on the outer shell of the tent we were showered by sand!. It was not possible to change this anymore so we covered our heads and that was that All is red now) The net day we took off early. But suddenly there were no roadside shopes open anymore. We were desperate to get some water which we did together with an invitation to eat. WHich we accepted. The meal was splendind the conversation limited. But the people here are so so friendly you cannot imagin!

We pressed on to AL Raqqah which we reached at lunch from where we bought train tickets to Deir al Zoor. We left the bikes in the trainstation main hall with all the luggage (imaging this in Europe or the Americas) just because the guy ascented that he will watch them. Raqqah is not a great city but had a glorious past and a still impressive city wall. After suffering some harrasment from kids we were safed by Brkl (the big mountain) a very nice Kurdish lad who asked us if he can show us the city so he can practice his english. It was great we are very thankful for him he made Raqqah a very nice place to be.

 

THen we took the train to Deir el Zoor where we arrived late at night and on which we had company by many students trying to have a conversation (we turned down their invite to stay at their flat as it did not fell proper).

 

In Deir we entered by the 400m long suspension bridge which was quite an entrance. Then we found a really special little hotel the Jamil al Arabia. Not very clean (except the shared bath and beds) but a great guy as owner.

 

The next morning my birthday we took the micro bus to Mari 130km south 13km from the Iraqi boarder. Supposedly we are in the most restrictive part of the country but the women here dress in any way, but always neckline and ankle covered. But showing hair, covering hair, wearing the cloakes or very tight western clothes, any combination goes anything is accepted. It feels a very multiculti place (within the arab world) really good.

Back to Mari, in the middle of the desert nearly 5000 years old. It has seen a little of everything and is even tough not spectacular a great place to visit. I liked it.

Then we backtracked to Tell Sahirye (Duoro Europo) Pre Greek and spectacular. Throning above the Euphrates river having a city wall of about 5km. Persian, greek, roman, Christian and Jewish temples side by side. The London of the 1. and 2. AD. No Candle or Cake but sitting looking over the Euphrates River. Spectacular!!!!

Thank you Carlitos for taking me here, without you it would be hard.

 

On the way back we were very lucky we only waited for about 5min for the microbus and then had a romantic dinner right at the river!

 

Life is good the middle east so far is better than anything I have visited so far even if I have to shut up and let the man do the things! As a visitor it is great!

 

We cannot access the blog in Syria so thank you Lalo for posting our comments. When we return to Turkey we will provide the pictures!

Camino de Siria 29 Septiembre

Salimos de Saliurfa camino de Gobekli Tepe (Unas ruinas a 20km de Saliurfa). Llegando alli se nos cruzo un rebanho de cabras y tuvimos que parar. El pastor se acerco y nos pregunto si podriamos hacerle una cura en un dedo que se habia cortado. Sacamos nuestro botiquin, le curamos la herida y le regalamos unas tiritas. El se despidio de nosotros muy agradecido aunque la verdad no le habia hecho la mejor cura.

Quedaban 4km para Gobekli Tepe y todo era subida. Despues de 30min llegamos alli y los guardias se acercaron a nosotros para comunicarnos que estaba cerrado, no podiamos entrar. Eso fue muy fustrante, le rogamos que nos dejasen entrar pero no hubo manera. Tuvimos que regresar resignados.

Nos pusimos rumbo a Harran. Decidimos coger caminos rurales y como no nos 'desorientamos' y tuvimos que parar a preguntar varias veces. En un pueblo en medio de la nada un profesor que hablaba muy bien el ingles nos hizo un mapa explicando excelentemente el camino. Nos hicimos una foto con el y le prometimos enviarsela por email.

Mas adelante estabamos descansando y comiendo algo cuando unos ninhos que llegaban de la escuala se acercaron. Nos hicieron todo tipo de preguntas  y cuando estabamos listos para irnos los ninhos nos decian que en el siguiente pueblo habia perros peligrosos. Los ninhos estaban formado un corro a mi alrededor y para asustarlos hice el rugido de un leon. Asustados, los ninhos retrocedieron de un salto unos 2 metros y todos rompimos a reir.

De nuevo en ruta nos pasamos un cruce y paramos a preguntar en una gasolinera. Un senhor nos guio hasta el cruze y alli paso un motociclista. El senhor le pregunto si hiba en nuestra direccion y el dijo que si, entonces le dijo que nos guiase. Despues de 2 km por un camino empedrado llegamos al pueblo. El motociclista nos pregunto si queriamos te y le dijimos que si. Entonces nos llevo a su casa. La cas era grande y bien moderna. Nos sentamos en la terraza y nos sirvieron el te. Cuando estabamos para irnos le pedimos hacernos una foto y ellos accedieron gratamente. Despues de hacernos una foto con los hombres de la casa llego la primera mujer de la casa. Le pidio a Barbara que la siguiese a dentro de la casa. 5 minutos mas tarde llegaron la mujer de la casa con otra mas vestidas de fiesta. Ostias!!! era Barbara con un vestido de fiesta Kurdo.

Era tarde pero por suerte solo quedaban 10km. Llegamos a Harran casi al anochecer, realmente cansados y con ganas de irnos a la cama. Fue un dia agotador pero lleno de anecdotas.

Manhana dejariamos atras Turkia. El pais nos sorprendio gratamente. Habiamos llegado un poco recelosos ya te habiamos leido que era una zona un poco dificil, especialmente para una mujer. El paisaje de Turquia es bello, la comida fabulosa pero lo mejor es su gente. Son realmente amigables y la manera que nos recibieron es algo que nunca olvidaremos. Estamos realmente contentos de haber escogido Turquia como el inicio de nuestro viaje.

El 30 Septiembre nos pusimos en camino a Siria. La frontera esta a solo 20 km de Harran pero se nos hicieron relamente largos por el calor que hacia. Llegamos a la frontera y tuvimos que sellar nuestros pasaportes. En la aduana Siria nos atendio un policia joven. Me estaba haciendo las tipicas preguntas (nombre del padre, de la madre, donde ibamos) y de repente me pregunto: Madrid o Barcelona?. Me quede extranhado y el dijo: Futbol, que equipo, Madrid o Barcelona?. Le dije Barcelona y el riendose me decia: Barcelona very good!! Messi. Yo por explote a reir. Luego el me dijo que si hubiese dicho Madrid no hubiese entrado en Siria. Parece que tanto en Turkia y en Siria les encanta el Madrid y el Barcelona.

Una vez en Siria paramos a comer algo en un restaurante. Entramos y preguntamos por comida. Nos comimos unos falafel deliciosos. El duenho del restaurante (Amahl) acabo invitandonos a la comida. Nos hicimos una foto con ellos y prometimos que se la enviariamos por correo. La verdad que la entrada en Siria no prodria haber sido mas impresionante. La gente parece tan agradable como en Turquia.

Seguimos nuestro rumbo hacia Al Raqqa. El calor era insoportable y decidimos parar en le medio de la nada. Habia un pequenha plantacion de olivos con una cuadra para las cabras. Decidimos que ese seria nuestro sitio de acampada. De noche el sitio era tranquilo pero se levanto el viento y experimentamos la primera tormenta de arena de nuestro viaje. La verdad no fue la mejor noche que tuvimos hasta ahora ya que no pudimos dormir demasiado.

Al dia siguiente (1 Octubre) seguimos rumbo a Al Raqqa. Despues de una hora de camino y como no teniamos casi agua paramos en una tiendecita (otra vez en el medio de la nada como podreis imaginar). Alli el senhor nos invito a te y nos lleno las botellas de agua. Entonces nos pregunto si queriamos comer. Estabamos con hambre por lo que dijimos que si. Nos llevo a su casa y nos trajeron comida y mas te. El senhor tenia 3 mujeres y 20 ninhos. Como no, nos hicimos fotos con el y su mujer (les encantan las fotos y descubrimos que es una buena forma de agradecimiento solo que siempre nos dan direcciones de email que no funcionan). El senhor acabo diciendonos que si volviamos por alli que parasemos a dormir en su casa. La verdad que nos parecio un gesto increible aunque sabemos que no volveremos, por lo menos en este viaje).

El dia fue largo. Hicimos 70 km en un sol abrasador. Por el camino mucha gente nos invitaba a te aunque no podiamos parar ya que si no nunca llegariamos a nuestro destino. Llegamos a Al Raqqa a las 15:00 y fuimos a la estacion de tren a comprar los billetes para Deir Al Zoor. El tren salia a las 18:30 por lo que decidimos ir a la ciudad a comer algo. Le pedimos al senhor en la ventanilla de los billetes si podiamos dejar las bicis alli y el dijo que si, que no habia problema. Le pusimos un pequenho candado y nos fuimos para la ciudad. Al poco de salir nos 'asaltaron'. Nos decian si querimos comer y nos indicaron que alli cerca podiamos comprar falafel. Compramos unos falafel pero los ninhos empezaron a ponerse un poco pesados y un BrKl (Berkal) salio en nuestra ayuda echando los ninhos de alli. Continuamos caminando y Berkal nos pregunto muy amablemente si podia ir con nosotros ya que queria practicar su ingles. Le dijimos que si y el acabo ejerciendo como guia de la ciudad ensenhandonos la muralla de la ciudad y la Puerta de Bagdad. Su ingles era muy bueno y fue muy gracioso porque cuando le yo le hablaba no habia problema pero cuando Barbara lo hacia el decia: Lo siento pero no entiendo. No se porque pero cuando Barbara me habla no entiendo.

Nos llevo a la tienda de telefonia donde trabajaba. Era de su familia. Alli conocimos a su hermano. Despues de un rato nos fuimos para la estacion. Habina pasado casi 2 horas por lo que estaba un poco preocupado por las bicis. Al llegar a la estacion las estaban alli intactas. La verdad que algo asi no lo hubiese hecho en ningun otro lugar.

A las 10 de la noche llegamos a Deir Al Zoor. Nos buscamos un hotel y tuvimos la suerte de caer en el hotel Jamil Al Arabi. El duenho habla ingles y nos dio indicaciones de la ciudad y de los sitios que deberiamos visitar. Lo pero de todo es el calor que hace. A las 10 de la noche estabamos a unos 20-25 grados.

Nos levantamos temprano para ir a visitar Mari que esta a 120km de Deir Al Zoor y a solo 12km de Iraq. Llegamos a Mari a las 9:00 y ya hacia un calor increible. Visitamos estas ruinas pre-romanas y nos fuimos a Dura Europas. Estas ruinas de una importante ciudad que vio pasar diferentes culturas y religiones a traves de su historia (Griegos, Romanos, Persas, etc). La ciudad esta en el medio del desierto por lo que el calor era insoportable. Sufrimos realmente las 3 horas que estuvimos alli pero realmente valio la pena el sacrificio. Aunque parezca mentira fue la mejor manera de pasar el cumpleanhos de Barbara. Al llegar al hotel nos hechamos una buena siesta y luego la lleve a cenar a un restaurante pegado al rio Eufrates. Fue una bonita manera de celebrar su cumpleanhos.

Manhana (4 Octubre) nos pondremos rumbo a Aleppo. Espero que todo siga igual de bien como hasta ahora.

Un abrazo para tod@s

Carlos y Barbara