Last time we spoke we were still in Turkey. SInce then we have done some serious pedaling and sightseeing. From Sanliurfa in Turkey we decided to go via the bronzeage settlement of Goebeli tepek to Harran. SO we made a 40km detour to see Goebeli. It was first quite flat, then we deviated from the main road and even tough the road was very good the hills started. It was though. On the way we met a sheppard who asked us if we would like to take a foto of him, of course! THen he showed us that one of his fingers had a uggly cut so we took out the first aid kitt and Carlos tried to bandaid it. I stood by as I was not sure if I am allowed to touch the man. But what a bad job Carlos did. He nearly cut of the circulation of the poor fellow so we had to redo it. The goats, sheeps and donkey all wandered off in the meantime. If there would have been any wolfes they would have eaten them all.
After that rather funny stop we keept going up and up and up (and it is over 30 degrees). I hate it! But then I wanted to see Goebeli Tepek. We reached the top and a down hill bit came along, so I said to Carlos that if the SIte is down in the valley below I will not go any further as we had to return the same way. But no we turned onto a dirt track for the last 500m. Nevertheless it was steep uphill and bumpy again. When we arrived at the gate the 2 guardians came out and told us that we cannot access the site as it is closed HAHAHA.
I was pretty upset specially as the signes by the german archeological team state access between sunrise and sunset, no addmission charged. But the guardians had the Kalashnikovs.
Well we left after a short break (no sneaking in). Then we went and stopped at the petrol station to get directions and to be invited for tea. By now it was very hot (10am) We went on the small countryside roads and everywhere the people working (and hey they are working hard in the cotton fields or on constructions) somebody called out to us to say hello but as well to offer us tea. If you would stop each time we would only cover a couple km a day. But then we had to ask for directions sometimes. In one place they mobilized the english teacher and he came to draw us a map. His english was excellent (Thank you Aslan) unfortunately we did not receive a working email and therefore cannot send the pictures taken.
Further down the road we stopped in the shade of some trees, always conciously looking for a place with little people around. A car stopped and the driver asked if we speak french. Well I don't, but we could understand each other. Then school finished. At the beginning we had 2 boys standing patiently behind us on the sunny side of the road talking about us. We ignored them while we ate but then some more arrived and Carlos opend the conversation. What a joy. There english was reasonable. We had a really good time with some of them being very repectful and some a little cheekier. At the end we took the photos and were ready to leave when one of them told us that the next village is very dangerous. We did not understand why as they go to school there. so dogs may have been the reason. We asked they insisted: very dangerous. In that instance they were all gathered around Carlos who suddenly decided to roar like a lion and to show them how dangerous he is. They got such a fright. It was so funny. All had a big giggle.
And then we arrived in the next village, no dogs but a military outpost. Nobody could tell us why they needed them. Anyhow we preesed on to the next village and asked at the petrol station for directions. A man showed us the way in his van where we had to turn of. In that moment a guy on a motorbike entered the path (and it was bumpy) Our guide asked if the motorcyclist is going to Tasklc our village so we could follow him. SO we did slowing te motorcyclist down to 10km a hour. He took out his phone and started a lenghty conversation (my bet was that he is asking his friend to await us with a roadblock to rob us, Carlos was thinking we will be invited to more tea). WHen arriving at the village (still no road block in sight) we were having more tea! They introduced us to Baba (the Patriarch) I was allowed to sit with the men but they were making sure they do not have to look or touch me. The best teaglasses (with the golden rim) was brought out and conversation could start. Carlos is doing really well and I am keeping my head down really well too. Baba has 2 wifes and many kids he owns the cotton s far as the eye reaches and has a big big house. We refused to have lunch as it was getting late an Harran our goal was still far. When we were ready to leave Babas first wife joind us. This was a relieve as one of the kids started crowding me. We took photos when she said I shall come with her. SO I was invited into the womens domain. The second wife was feeding her newborn inside, both of them very beautiful. The kids were sent outside and she opend the cupboard and took out this very festive gown! Wich I was allowed to put on and then to showcast for photos outside. WHen I arrived Carlos just kept on talking, then suddenly he went OHH, on which Baba started to cheer. And more photos were taken.
THe family was very traditional men/women divided but it did not matter they were very very kind.
What a experience.\
We made it well to Harran.
Harran has beehieve houses and a great Karawanserei. Also it was the first muslim university. Unfortunately it is very touristy so all the kids come up to you begging. Whenever you travel somewhere remote, please do not give pencils and so on to the kids, if you want to do good bring it to the local school or support a developement project in the area. Otherwise you have all those begging anoying kids.
From there we went on to the Syrian boarder. I did not feel fit at all, and it was the hottest day so far. WE got to a very caotic but incredible friendly boarder where the custom officer tried to explain that he can only give us 15 days but that we are able to prolong for another 10 days in any major syrian scity or as we have multiple entry visas that we can crossed the boarder and come back. When we rested a moment outside some more tea was served by the local custom officer then another guy came up with is mobile in hand giving it to us and gess what a spanish voice asking us what we need! A young lady working in the boarder office (her last day) who was born in Malaga and lived in Cuba. What a reception.
In Tell Abyad we stopped for some lunch. When the guy took out a knive with a blade of 1m I had to take a photo which they relished. We took a couple more photos and another guest speaking english had a conversation with us. THe owner gave us the food free of charge, we promised to send the photo I hope it will get there. Then we took off and half a mile down the road a motocyclist came towards us. It was the owner with his wife. Who was shown to whom I am not sure but it was very touching. We got lost on the countrytracks to be helpd by some youths and then we pressed on. There was no way we could make another hotel. so we camped in a olive grove. It was lovely a light brise, the stars etc. But suddenly the wid picked up and as we had not put on the outer shell of the tent we were showered by sand!. It was not possible to change this anymore so we covered our heads and that was that All is red now) The net day we took off early. But suddenly there were no roadside shopes open anymore. We were desperate to get some water which we did together with an invitation to eat. WHich we accepted. The meal was splendind the conversation limited. But the people here are so so friendly you cannot imagin!
We pressed on to AL Raqqah which we reached at lunch from where we bought train tickets to Deir al Zoor. We left the bikes in the trainstation main hall with all the luggage (imaging this in Europe or the Americas) just because the guy ascented that he will watch them. Raqqah is not a great city but had a glorious past and a still impressive city wall. After suffering some harrasment from kids we were safed by Brkl (the big mountain) a very nice Kurdish lad who asked us if he can show us the city so he can practice his english. It was great we are very thankful for him he made Raqqah a very nice place to be.
THen we took the train to Deir el Zoor where we arrived late at night and on which we had company by many students trying to have a conversation (we turned down their invite to stay at their flat as it did not fell proper).
In Deir we entered by the 400m long suspension bridge which was quite an entrance. Then we found a really special little hotel the Jamil al Arabia. Not very clean (except the shared bath and beds) but a great guy as owner.
The next morning my birthday we took the micro bus to Mari 130km south 13km from the Iraqi boarder. Supposedly we are in the most restrictive part of the country but the women here dress in any way, but always neckline and ankle covered. But showing hair, covering hair, wearing the cloakes or very tight western clothes, any combination goes anything is accepted. It feels a very multiculti place (within the arab world) really good.
Back to Mari, in the middle of the desert nearly 5000 years old. It has seen a little of everything and is even tough not spectacular a great place to visit. I liked it.
Then we backtracked to Tell Sahirye (Duoro Europo) Pre Greek and spectacular. Throning above the Euphrates river having a city wall of about 5km. Persian, greek, roman, Christian and Jewish temples side by side. The London of the 1. and 2. AD. No Candle or Cake but sitting looking over the Euphrates River. Spectacular!!!!
Thank you Carlitos for taking me here, without you it would be hard.
On the way back we were very lucky we only waited for about 5min for the microbus and then had a romantic dinner right at the river!
Life is good the middle east so far is better than anything I have visited so far even if I have to shut up and let the man do the things! As a visitor it is great!
We cannot access the blog in Syria so thank you Lalo for posting our comments. When we return to Turkey we will provide the pictures!
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