From Aleppo to Lattakia

Hi Guys

We have found a hacker who gave us access to the blog. So we are able to post photos again.
We we have travelled already over 1000km by bike. The longest day so far was 120km the shortest about 24km. We saw loads of historic remains, wherever you look there is something often a couple thousand or more years old.
 Well I did not leave Carlos in the Hamam. So he is still all intact. Nevertheless he is suffering badly with a furunkel (I do not know the english word) in a sensitive position. So he was in a lot of pain and could not sit on his saddle. But he is a tough guy and keeps pedaling.

We left Aleppo a week or so ago. On a quiet Friday morning with no traffic. This was good as Aleppo is manic but really enjoyable. We went north into the area where you have many roman and early christian remains. They call it the dead cities. You ride through limestone littered fields (I cannot understand how after 1000s years still so many stones are left in the fields) and then suddenly you see these Roman buildings 3 story high often with a cellar and only parts still intact. Beside the modern villages and people farming the same fields used 2000 years ago. The colors are brown and grey with some olive trees strewn between.
We went to the famous cathedral of Saint Simeon (400ad), it was a very undulating landscape but the last 100m up the castle was murderous steep uphill (I hate uphill). We met 2 mountain bikers which had a laugh at me weaving my way up to the church. But at least the tourists arriving in their aircon buses gave us a round of applause and some encouraging words.

San Simeon was good but even better were the 25km downhill to Ain Dara a bronze age city which was inhabited continuously until 1600ad. We met some Kurds (Omar, Mohamend and Mustafa) just before visiting the site and they invited us to have tea and some Pomegranate (Harvest is in full flow). They said we shall drop their name with the caretaker (Abdul Mohamed) of Ain Dara and he will let us sleep there. He did, first offering us a room for GBP7 which Carlos refused as too expensive, but when he understood that we have a tent we were allowed to pitch it with no charge. He even allowed us to use the shower (hot). Then he told us he is going to a dance and if we would like to join. We refused. Suddenly a car approached and it was Omar and Mohamed arriving to see if we have been able to camp and if there friend is catering to our needs. That was very sweet.

The next morning we tried to be as quiet at 5am as possible but the Abdul Mohamed heard us and prepared breakfast for us, also inviting us to have a look at the Museum. There were many of the carved stone fronties from the site stored waiting for conservation.
From Ain Dara we had our first long climb awaiting us 25km up to Saint Simeon. What we rode downhill the day before in 45min took us 2h. But I was surprised it was less hard than I thought (I still hate uphill) Then we went on to some more of the Dead Cities. IT was really tough as you had a great steep downhill just to have to get uphill again. The  change of rhythm is a killer. Also it was not a very clear day so the views were somewhat tainted. We nearly decided to go to Turkey to Antioch again. But we decided to explore some more of Syria first. After our usual Falafel Lunch we rode up a valley. In the distance we saw this fabulous greek looking gate up a very very steep hill. Carlos got shiny eyes (he loves  uphill) I got week knees, but the main traffic turned left (Yippee) until I saw the steep climb the cars had to do going left. Well quickly it was upon us. I had to climb again (I have a good collection of swearwords I can make use off). It was hard and guess where it brought us to Barad the greek looking gate (actually it is roman and was inscribed as 116ad) We explored the site and it was very beautiful with many lintels inscribed in what looks like latin or aramaic.

Nevertheless we had a big scare. We left the bikes as always somewhere against a big stone or wall. Unfortunately the site was slopping and we could not see the bikes at all time. Luckily we were already on the way back to the bikes when we saw a tractor stopping right beside them and one guy jumping of while the other stayed with running motor on. Carlos sensing danger started shouting at them, dropping the bag and sprinting up hill (He is my superhero). Suddenly the guy on the tractor seemed to notice Carlos and started to gesture that something fell off the tractor. Carlos still does not believe this. But when Carlos got to the bikes they looked untouched. Maybe this was a lucky escape, maybe just a reminder that we have to be more cautious. Further along the road we had a laugh with some locals at a coffee stop in the middle of  nowhere and we tried to camp in a olivegrove close to the village of Sardine. Only to be spotted by the local women and asked to come with them home. I had a good time with the girls, Carlos met his first ultraconservative islamist. A police officer in Aleppo, with strong views that Iran is a glorious example of how to have a muslim state. The most shocking thing was the picture he showed us of a hanged kid. I believe it was genuine. He said the kid was a thief and the people of Aleppo hanged him before the police could do anything. It was not a pretty sight. And I do not hope Syria is going starting to implement sharia law like Iran ever.

We went on early the next morning up the hill (steep but not very long) to Qalb Lozeh. THis is another impressive site on the top of the hill. From there on it went up and down up and down up and up. On the way we asked a horse men if he allowes us to make a photo of him and the horse and of course we were invited for tea or coffee. He told us proudly about his son working in Lebanon. On we went up and down up and down until the big downhill (about 500 altitude meters) into the AL Ghab (Orontes river valley). This was spectacular. From there we went on along the valley (nearly on sea level but a mountain range away from the sea). We had a good run and Carlos broke the speed record which is now set at 78km (He was not wearing a helmet). We wanted to make it to the lake on my map close to a power station. At 5pm we were nearly there just to be intercepted by a group of men drinking tea at the roadside (The 3 Abduls). When they heard we wanted to camp they invited us to stay with them. Which we did. After the second cup of Tea I was asked to join the ladies. Cleverly I asked for a Shower first. Carlos was on my heels. The men offered him a Galabiye (typical dress as you can see in London with the Saudis) and I was offered one too. When I came out of the shower I was immediately put into a headscarf too, no choice. The men were with the men and I was taken to the roof by the kids, meanwhile mama was allowing me to wash my clothes in the washing machine. The few was spectacular but it was a very strange conservative family too. However the girls were very beautiful with green blue eyes. Later on we were whisked off to one of the other Abdul house to have dinner. That was truly different and very tasty (Chicken and potatoes and stuffed Aubergine etc).
Then Asia and Ibrahim the two which were only married for 10 days and very happy asked if they could have a photo. I must make sure we can send it to them.

The next morning started with a very very steep climb. They are like the english. You have a hill which is 900m above see about  700m climb what do you do, use switch back or go straight up? Lets go straight up (Yorkshire moor is calling with 33% inclination). After the first quarter Abdul drove past us in his pick up and asked again very kindly if we do not want him to take us to the top, stupid as I am I said no I will ride. (If Carlos wants the hills he has to put up with me being very slow).


Ahh but before 3 funny incidents at the dinner the sister of Abdul came with her husband. She extend us the hand and I greeted her, she turned to Carlos still with her hand outstretched but when Carlos tried to shake it she pulled it back quickly and made a disapproving noise. The guys were like noooo, never touch a woman. Which we know but which until now just did not happen in this extend and Carlos shook hands with many women.
The other incident was when in the morning I went to pick up my clothes I noticed that my bra was missing. So I asked them where it is as it is seen as a insulting piece of clothing to be hidden away from the male eyes I was not surprised not to see it on the cloth line with the T shirts. However I was very surprised when the mother (and after having given birth to 15 children this is to be expected) which would be at least a double D was pulling her dress aside exposing my bra. Her breast were right under her chin. It would have been worth a picture. Well reluctantly she gave it back after a discussion where she made me understand she would like it as a gift. Sorry I do not have enough of them to give them away!
And the third incident was that Carlos took off his ring during the shower and forgot to put it back on. When we came back to the room the ring was not there and could not be found. He was wondering if to ask about it but we did not want to make a scandal and get one of the kids punished, so we kept quiet. But Carlos was upset about it. The next morning we were ready to leave and Carlos suddenly spotted something shinny hidden behind the bottles of pickled peppers. Guess what it was the ring and it looked like to be hidden away...

Back to my ride. I managed the hill, half way up Carlos took the food bag of me and I just managed. We went on through undulating hills up to AL Barad and on to Serjilla. Some more of the dead cities. In Serjilla we pitched our tent right at the entrance overlooking the ruins it was spectacular. But on this day we only managed 24km. The next day we went ondownhill towards the Orontes Valley again to see Apamea a roman site. The colonnaded way is spectacular. We then went back up the Valley of El Ghab which we left the day before. But we rode on the other side of the Valley and what a difference! The woman were not covered, HAir showing, shoulders showing, lipstick no headscarfes it was like a different world.
Carlos and I had our first argument (yes Lalo we argue less than at home). He could not stop going on about the next big hill 1500m this time which he wanted to ride the steep road up, on and on he went and I believed he realised that me and hills are not going well together by now. So I told him to shut up about it and he got upset and stopped talking. Burra as I am I did shut up too and so we missed the camp side. When it got dark we finally had to talk (also the turn uphill point got really close) we asked at a house for water and got invited. People do not understand that one would like to stay in a tent so they immediately ask you to sleep at there place. All the family was very westernly dressed, men and women sitting on chairs on the Veranda with the kids around having a conversation (just like in the west) when the first wife came the husband got up and greeted her she shook hands with everybody including Carlos (kisses for me). Kids talked to grownups and women sat beside men etc. And this was 12km away in the same Valley just on the other side. I do not think that my words describe the cultural difference enought.

We went to bed early and rose before sunrise. 2km later the 25km long climb started alla straight up again! I was not happy And my left pedal on top of that started to have a movement which Carlos cannot fix (Paul why do you not come and join us I need a mechanic who understands bikes!)
Carlos went on and on about: why do we not stop a truck and you get on it and wait on the top. So I new I am to slow and taking the joy out of his hill riding. But he wants the steep hills  (There was a route albeit a little longer easier on the hills) he will have to live with a snail paced girlfriend. I made the 25km. The first 14km where murderous, the next few were nearly flat and then there was the top. Sadly the valley was covered in a typ of mist maybe from the burnings maybe because winter is close (with 35degrees still).
At the top I put my foot down and we went and had houmus in the restaurant. When we looked down we saw that there is another road up from the 7km point. Luckily we did not know at the bottom. I would not have been able to ride it, Carlos would have loved it. IT was straight up for about 700 altitude meters. The cars coming up were crawling.
Well next time I take the lorry and Carlos can ride it.
On the down hill we were just swooping around a corner in the first bigger village when I spotted a familiar face. Breaks were smoking and I stopped to meet Claude the french guy from Aleppo which kindly pointed out so many of Syrians highlights to us. I was so surprised I did not even ask him about his trip to the Kurds of the north east (boardering the Iraq turkish boarder). I would have loved to hear about it. He was on foot going up to the mountain we just rode over. I hope he had a great time and I also hope we will met again!
THank you Claude our Breton.

On the way down we stopped at Saladins Castle.

An impressive site worth the step decent into the Valley and the hard climb up to it. The heat was  oppressive and only made bearable by the oak and pine forest in the area. Our first forest in Syria stretching nearly all the way to Lattakia. Entering Lattakia was not great. We arrived from the SOuth East and had to ride through the rush hour traffic. However Mohamed from the Samar hotel was very understanding that we do not want to carry our bikes up to the second floor and accommodated us as low down as possible. After the hot shower and putting on the washing we explored famous liberal Lattakia.
I am still not impressed. OK the people are dressing like in the west and girls and boys can be seen sitting beside each other and having conversations but the town itself is just not special considering that you have the sea right beside you.
So today we went to Ugarit where the first Alphabet was invented. That was very nice even though it is very sticky. We forfeit a bath in the sea as the beaches we passed looked litter strewn.
We then checked on the bikes and had a siesta. Now we are preparing for Carlitos birthday tomorrow. He will stop being my toyboy and catch up with me again for another 345 days. He wants to camp at a beach and I want to see another of the big Castles we will also be riding about 80km along the coast.
Well guys I hope we are notboring you to much.
IF you do not know where to go on your next holidays come to Syria it is worth it.

My best wishes to all of you and I hope you are having as good weather as we have!

My ever diminuishing view of Syria

For Paula